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Discussion Starter #1
I recently acquired a mint condition tractor supply 4ft rotary cutter. The man only used it 3 times to mow his garden and it’s been stored in his garage for several years. The paint isn’t even scratched on it. However he either ran it without oil or just the time sitting idle has caused the seal on the bottom to leak fluid. I bought a new seal but cannot get the stump jumper off. It’s like it’s welded on. I have it upside down and have pryed on it every way possible. I watched a guy on YouTube use a propane torch to heat it up and hammer it out upside down but he damaged his threads. Is this the only way?


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Got pictures?

Some of the gurus here can probably shoot you some ideas if we can see it.
 

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I have not tried this but do know someone that has, in addition to seeing several successful online references to it: Filling the gear case full of wheel bearing or axle grease via a grease gun. Too thick to leak but allegedly provides adequate lubrication. Becomes semi liquid in high temps but not to the point of getting past the seal. It worked for 40 years in closed knuckle 4x4s. Have also seen this method used in many M-series military front axles once the "sweep" gets leak prone.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry bout pics in dark.


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I have not tried this but do know someone that has, in addition to seeing several successful online references to it: Filling the gear case full of wheel bearing or axle grease via a grease gun. Too thick to leak but allegedly provides adequate lubrication. Becomes semi liquid in high temps but not to the point of getting past the seal. It worked for 40 years in closed knuckle 4x4s. Have also seen this method used in many M-series military front axles once the "sweep" gets leak prone.
I have heard of this. It may be worth a shot before battling this spline. Any recommendations on type of grease? Just the blue John Deere grease I use on everything else?


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#0 Grease

Try corn "picker grease". #0 (zero) grease. It sumps so it does not fly off like #2 grease. Does not leak like 85/90 gear oil and works. Years ago the old rotary cutters came with #0 grease from the factory and I run it in my 35 year old rotary mower.
 

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Try corn "picker grease". #0 (zero) grease. It sumps so it does not fly off like #2 grease. Does not leak like 85/90 gear oil and works. Years ago the old rotary cutters came with #0 grease from the factory and I run it in my 35 year old rotary mower.
I would be inclined to follow this advice. Obviously from an injectable cartridge unless you are real patient. I have seen similar references to older gearboxes filled with OEM grease. Probably depends on the implement. Doubt it was ever in snowblower gearboxes but it is unlikely that most rotary mowers are operated in frigid temps.
 

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If it was run without oil, corn head grease is your best /easiest solution.
 

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Corn Head grease is good

After replacing a seal in my Bushhog, I'd agree that filling the gear box with corn head grease is a great alternative. I've done that with other gearboxes and it worked fine.

If you want to get the stump jumper off, your only real option is lube the splines frequently for some period of time. Then I would try to work wooden wedges underneath to provide pressure. A porta power with a wedge implement would help as well if you have one. Finally put the nut back on the shaft and hit the shaft with a brass hammer. If you can get the blade bolts loose you can make a puller by drilling a channel iron or strong steel bar so that you can drop threaded rod down and tighten that up to put pressure on the jumper. (Almost forgot I had to do that as well.)

Keep moving the pressure from one spot to another and eventually it will break loose but all in all the corn head grease is a good alternative to spending a lot of frustrating time dealing with it. Been there, done that and don't particularly care to do it again.

Treefarmer
 

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I wedged a bunch of steel (crow bars, pry bars, screwdrivers, leftover metal scraps) between the stump jumper and the "frame" (the reinforced parts of the deck) in four spots around the outside of the stump jumper, two near where the blades are bolted on, then put the nut on loose, so the nut was a tiny bit above flush with the shaft... popped it once, real hard with a 5lb sledge, and it popped off.
 

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I never replace one of those seals. I just fill them with gun grease. I just use the cheapest I can get on sale. I even have a grease gun filled with cheap grease just for that purpose. I currently have a 10ft brush hog with 3 gear boxes and one of them leaks. I also have a post hole digger that leaks. I just filled them with gun grease. It seems that once you fill them with gun grease, you can then add some 80W-90 oil and it will not leak it out.

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i have never done it on a brushhog but i did drill and tap in a grease zerk on post hole digger case...and a tiny grease vent hole on the side so i knew when it was full

as for removing the stump jumper i would probably turn it upside down and put two floor jacks between deck and jumper on opposite sides....pump in a little bit of pressure not enough to bend deck or jumper.....then heat the jumper around the spline ....then strike the shaft end sharply with a big hammer to pop it loose...(protecting threads of course...)........if that didnt work with light pressure i would just build a puller
 

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One Test for me

I do the Feel Test for heat after running my brush hog for a while. Cut heavy grass for several hours a few days ago and the gearbox and bearings were cool to the touch. I use a grease gun was told the seal leaked but nothing on the hub under the brush hog? I do the same thing on trailer hubs and brake drums when moving heavy stuff. Saw to many axles break from bad/dry/loose wheel bearings and wheels take off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the advice. Seems enough people have had success with the grease that I am going to try it. Most uses of this machine will be less than an hour probably for field edges and paths mostly. It won’t be used to clear any type of large property. As bad as it was leaking the gear oil I hope the grease will stay in. Never heard of #0 “corn picker” grease. Lol. I’m on the hunt for some now though. Thanks again. Always learn something new on here.


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Discussion Starter #16
Shew. It must be good for $15/tube lol. Guess if saves from having to change seal it’s worth double that


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Cotton picker spindle grease

Thanks for the advice. Seems enough people have had success with the grease that I am going to try it. Most uses of this machine will be less than an hour probably for field edges and paths mostly. It won’t be used to clear any type of large property. As bad as it was leaking the gear oil I hope the grease will stay in. Never heard of #0 “corn picker” grease. Lol. I’m on the hunt for some now though. Thanks again. Always learn something new on here.


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You can also try cotton picker spindle grease but it's a bit thinner. It won't leak as much as regular gear oil but more than the corn head grease or plain old grease. Tractor Supply has it but so do a lot of other places.

If you are in a cotton area, the farmers running cotton pickers buy it by the 55 gallon drum or 275 gallon tote.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tractor supply had high temp tacky grease. Was a #1.5. All rest I saw were a #2. I pumped 2 tubes into gearbox and ran cutter about half an hour. Gear box wasn’t leaking and was cool to the touch. I’ll keep an eye on it. If it’s too thick I can always add some gear oil to it.


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