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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone I have the 1026R and yes I have the floppy bucket syndrome, pretty bad when I have the forks on and am trying to load logs on my sawmill. I bought the tractor second hand so have no warranty, the tractor lives on my water access property so has to be floated over there(no easy task) and the closest dealer is three hours away. So my question is can I order the part required to fix this problem and replace it myself, how difficult is it to replace, is there a specific part number? I have tried to read other threads on this topic but everyone seems to bring it to their dealers. Any help with this would greatly be appreciated thanks in advance Rick.
 

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:banghead: i just did a little fork work this week with my 2012 1026R. That floppy bucket drove me nutso. I found that when it was really in the floppy mode and tipped down when i inched the lever to the left, I would tap/slap the lever to the left and it would jump up slightly as opposed to going down.

As far as replacement, my deterrent has been the price of the new valve and being fully assured that i got the improved version.

Good question and I will be a lurker on your post.

BTW, I have priced that puppy. That got my attention.
 

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Replacement should be fairly straight forward for a person of average mechanical skills, maybe someone can post the R&R section from the manual for you.
 

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Service Manual Excerpts: SCV R+R

Here you go...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies especially the service manual diagram very helpful. Has anyone heard of people getting this part free as a "recall" as it is considered defective and the fact that I have no warranty.
 

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Thanks for the replies especially the service manual diagram very helpful. Has anyone heard of people getting this part free as a "recall" as it is considered defective and the fact that I have no warranty.
No, I haven't heard of that. I also think its fairly unlikely on a 2nd owner machine which is nearly 9 years old. Make sure you fully understand the system operation and you have ruled out any other possible contributors to your problem. The last thing you want is to spend the money on the SCV and not have it repair the problem.

Your project will go much easier if;

- You take pictures of each step as you disassemble the tractor.
- Use good wrenches and not "adjustable jaw wrenches".
- Have both SAE and Metric combination wrenches available plus any other tools to complete the repair
- Actual "Fitting Wrenches" avoid rounding off corners and make loosening and tightening hydraulic fittings easier.
- Make sure to have the hydraulic fitting sealant on hand when making the repairs (If Deere recommends any be used, its in the TSM)
- If you are NOT comfortable with your skills, get someone to help you work on the machine where its located.
- Obtain a copy of the Technical Service Manual (TSM) in it's entirety for your machine. You will find it very handy for all repairs and any issues.

Make sure to let us know how this goes and about your experience with this repair, it helps others in the future. Post any pictures of the process also for others to see what is needed to complete this repair.

Thanks.
 
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Well thanks again just called my closest dealer for a price and his first response was are you sitting down...$1284.00 before tax. Looks like I will be living with it for awhile. Has anyone ever taken the part off and brought it in to a hydraulic place to get it looked at wondering if it can be simply modified or something?
 

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Well thanks again just called my closest dealer for a price and his first response was are you sitting down...$1284.00 before tax. Looks like I will be living with it for awhile. Has anyone ever taken the part off and brought it in to a hydraulic place to get it looked at wondering if it can be simply modified or something?
No, I haven't. I did note when I was installing the Enhanced Pistol Grip Joytick diverter controller that HEMA was the source vendor of the SCV. You may want to do search utilizing their name with SCV, jotstick, etc or reach out to them directly. You may end up pulling part of the right fender to gain access to the ID tag and model number.
 
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Well thanks again just called my closest dealer for a price and his first response was are you sitting down...$1284.00 before tax. Looks like I will be living with it for awhile. Has anyone ever taken the part off and brought it in to a hydraulic place to get it looked at wondering if it can be simply modified or something?
They do not give them away but Green Farm Parts on this forum can shrink that price down into three figures in a heartbeat. :gizmo:
 

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There aren't any deals actually inside the valve itself. The spools and bores are just machined and then lapped for smooth fit.
There are o rings and seals where spool exits the valve housing. Usually these are suspect when you have an external leak.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 
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