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Since I got my x738 I've been wanting to add a snowblower to it. A couple of week ago I finally found a blower my financial advisor agreed to buy.

Going in I knew it was going to need some work to get it running smoothly. Here is my story of what I found.

This is what is looked like on it's ride home.
IMG_20201004_180007_01.jpg


And the model number.
757296
 

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I missed the bent impeller when I was buying the blower. Thanks to it having a steel impeller it's fixable. I didn't get a shot of the bent blades but here is a shot of the of what one of the stiffeners looked like.
757299
 

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A little work with a cutoff wheel and a 3lbs hammer later here's what the the replacement impeller stiffeners look like.
757300


Since the flat steel I had available was bigger than stock the 3rd un-bent stiffener had to be replaced for Ballance.
757301
 

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Last update for today. I figured I would replace all the bearings and the chain on this used snowblower but I wasn't expecting the cracked housing around the impeller bearing.
757302


Here's another shot with marker and stop holes to guide the grinding out of the crack.

757303


Next up is shots of this all welded back up and painted. But that's for another day.
 
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I would not bother welding up the cracks, I would just install the new enclosed chain gear box, it doesn't need the bolts that cracked and virtually eliminates maintenance other than an oil change once in a while. I did it on my 47" blower and won't ever go back to the open chain and sprocket junk as originally supplied. New blowers have the new drive and the crappy plastic impeller.
 
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As much as the new drive line would be nice the $2.00 of weld wire is significantly cheaper than a new drive gear box. Besides it's already welded and prime painted.

The housing needs some time with a sander and some JD yellow spray paint before it starts going back together. Well that and 5 new Timken bearings.
 

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As much as the new drive line would be nice the $2.00 of weld wire is significantly cheaper than a new drive gear box. Besides it's already welded and prime painted.
But when you DO, that closed drive unit is the bomb!

Might I also suggest supercharging the impeller with heavy duty tractor trailer mud flaps pieces. Especially if you find yourself with the wet, heavy stuff.
 

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But when you DO, that closed drive unit is the bomb!

Might I also suggest supercharging the impeller with heavy duty tractor trailer mud flaps pieces. Especially if you find yourself with the wet, heavy stuff.
I've been debating doing the rubber flappers on the impeller. I can get a lot of wet heavy snow in my area. Now would be the time to do it, if it was going to happen.
 
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Nice work CJadamec.......Looks good.

The bent impeller has happened to me as well. A little torch work and some muscle and everything back to normal......I guess the old yellow page phone books just aren't meant to be augured and thrown.

Remember when they used to throw the phone books by your mailbox or at the end of the driveway....??

Some of you do remember phone books, don't you?

I bet the old Yellow Pages never imagined what "Let your fingers do the walking" slogan would mean with new "scrolling" technology......

It's interesting how everyone of those discharge chutes has the same wear and impact area of rust on their inside. I see where some have put a plastic liner on the inside of the chute. I would think even a slight bottom edge on the plastic insert would catch snow and ice when being discharged......
 

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Nice work CJadamec.......Looks good.

The bent impeller has happened to me as well. A little torch work and some muscle and everything back to normal......I guess the old yellow page phone books just aren't meant to be augured and thrown.

Remember when they used to throw the phone books by your mailbox or at the end of the driveway....??

Some of you do remember phone books, don't you?

I bet the old Yellow Pages never imagined what "Let your fingers do the walking" slogan would mean with new "scrolling" technology......

It's interesting how everyone of those discharge chutes has the same wear and impact area of rust on their inside. I see where some have put a plastic liner on the inside of the chute. I would think even a slight bottom edge on the plastic insert would catch snow and ice when being discharged......
Thanks for the kind words. I used to like flipping through the yellow pages when the new edition got dropped off. Man the things people used to find entertainin

I gently convinced my impeller back into shape with a 3lbs hammer, and a dock cleat / bench vise for anvils. Was a bit noisy but it worked. I hate to think what that blower ate to bend things up like that. Last tractor it was on was a 4100 so there was a diesel behind it.

The housing is probably next up for rust removal and fresh paint. I really like the idea of a polly insert for the housing but part of me thinks there is a reason it's not a more popular option. I bet it works really well to start but wears out far too quickly to be practical.

As for the common wear pattern I think the housing is slightly eccentric to the impeller. The bottom being closer to the impeller edge to compact and accelerate the snow up and out of the chute. That would make that area more prone to being hit with rocks. Same goes for the wear pattern that is common on the discharge chutes.
 
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I've been debating doing the rubber flappers on the impeller. I can get a lot of wet heavy snow in my area. Now would be the time to do it, if it was going to happen.
Same here. I'm going to run it as-is this season and see what happens. I've got the UHMW (aka plastic) impeller, probably not wise for me to drill into that to mount the flaps. I'm also debating if I should spray the unit down (mostly the parts that come into contact with snow) with cosmoline as preventative maintenance from rusting. I probably will end up doing that because of all the salt the town dumps on the roads around here.

...I guess the old yellow page phone books just aren't meant to be augured and thrown...
Only if you want your own private tinker tape parade 😎
 

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Discussion Starter #12
More disassembly this weekend. More prepping and paint as well. Working on all the parts first getting them painted. Housing will probably wait till next weekend.

Picked up 5 new Timken bearings for when it goes back together. These bearings have a higher load rating than the JD branded bearings.

758144


758145


758146


758147
 
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Are you going to order new decals (labels) for the housing when you paint it? Last I looked, they were all available, and unlike many of the other "labels" the price is very reasonable. Please note, they are Serial number specific
Screenshot_2020-10-17 John Deere Parts Catalog.png
.........
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I've been debating new stickers or very tedious painters tape.

14 bucks seems like it might be worth it. It will probably look better too.
 

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Any time I repaint something no matter what it is, the decals need to go back!
Good job by the way, looks like you are doing a great deal of patience work.. It will be better than brand new once you're done. I would still switch to the chaincase though... forget all that chain, sprocket stuff, and under 200 bucks for the case and no more adjusting out of concentric junk. Maybe you are doing that and I missed it..
 

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Any time I repaint something no matter what it is, the decals need to go back!
Good job by the way, looks like you are doing a great deal of patience work.. It will be better than brand new once you're done. I would still switch to the chaincase though... forget all that chain, sprocket stuff, and under 200 bucks for the case and no more adjusting out of concentric junk. Maybe you are doing that and I missed it..
Someone else mentioned the enclosed chain case as well. I assumed it was going to cost 3-400.

I just looked up the part though it's way cheaper than I expected. Like you said under 200 and no more open chain. Considering I had to replace the small chain shaft due to a groove worn into it from a bad bearing. That shaft alone is more that half the price of the new box. Looks like I'm getting the enclosed drive chain after all.
 
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Someone else mentioned the enclosed chain case as well. I assumed it was going to cost 3-400.

I just looked up the part though it's way cheaper than I expected. Like you said under 200 and no more open chain. Considering I had to replace the small chain shaft due to a groove worn into it from a bad bearing. That shaft alone is more that half the price of the new box. Looks like I'm getting the enclosed drive chain after all.
I look for JD to revise the price at some point because currently the chain case costs way less than the parts it replaces.
 
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I look for JD to revise the price at some point because currently the chain case costs way less than the parts it replaces.
Does anyone have the part number for that chain case? I asume it is a bolt on switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Looks like this is the part. It should be a pretty easy drop in replacement for the old open chain set up.


There is a guy who just did just that. He also swapped the plastic impeller for the metal one.

 
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