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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased an old 3 pt, 8 ft Ford disk that I plan to do some restoration work on. It currently has 7/8" square axels and 20" notched blades.

7/8" axles for a disk this size seems kind of undersized. I am thinking of replacing the bearings and spools and upgrading to either 1" o 1 1/8". Any suggestions or thoughts on this?

As I said, the current blades are 20" notched. They definitely need to be replaced. They are spaced 9" on the front and 10" on the back. I seem to have room to increase to 22". I do like the current spacing.

Do any of you have suggestions or thoughts on the benefits of upgrading to 22" blades? I am also thinking about switching to smooth blades on the rear.

Finally, what thickness blades would you guys recommend for disk like this?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I wouldn't bother changing the axle on an 8' disk. Each gang is only 4' long. Having said that, you may have to change axle size to get disks as the options on a 7/8 square hole are somewhat limited. They are available but your local supplier might not have them.

Like much else these day, availability of disc blades is limited. You may want to check your supplier before making a choice.

Changing from 20 to 22" blades is relatively inexpensive. Adding in the cost of new axles, spools and bearings will up the cost considerably plus you need to make sure there's enough frame and hanger strength to handle the potential additional drag. In hard ground, it's not an issue but it might be in soft ground where the blades are sunk deeper.
 
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I have the Ford/Dearborn 3pt 8ft tandem disk. It only weighs 750#, so it can handle the lightweight duty. I would not bother trying to make it heavy duty as it does not weigh enough to take advantage of that. The only thing I did to mine was to cut off the angle iron from the 3pt to the disk and replace it with chains to give me more flexibility since I have the hyd top link. I have had it 6 1/2 years.

Dave
 
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So you have chains supporting the lift weight of the disk? I'm curious how this gives more flexibility.
 

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Without the rigid structure of the angle iron, the rear of the disk can move up and down independently of the front part of the disk. With the rigid structure, the entire disk moves up and down on a flat plane. After bending those angle iron links with my hyd top link trying to get the whole disk in the ground, I just cut them off and replaced them with chain links. When the early brush hogs came out, nearly all of them had solid links of some kind, but farmers quickly replaced them with chains. First time they went through a ditch, it nearly always bent them. Now they all have flex links of some kind. Both my RFM and my brush hog have flex links, which allows them to follow the ground contour much better.

Dave
 
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My JD 609 bush hog has a floating link. Once it runs out of float the gage wheel lifts the lift arms. But that hog is pretty stout so it hasn't bent up. I've just never seen a disk with chains. My disk is not 2 sections pinned together like you describe but one solid frame. I have an old MF 6' disk that is made that way but the back section just floats and is restricted to only dropping so far when it's lifted.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all. With regard to blade thickness it seems that I can or will be able to get anything between 3.5mm and about 6mm. Of course, more thickness requires more $s. What would you guys recommend?
 

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Thanks all. With regard to blade thickness it seems that I can or will be able to get anything between 3.5mm and about 6mm. Of course, more thickness requires more $s. What would you guys recommend?
What will be your use for the disk? Heavier blades will obviously last longer in sandy soil where scouring is an issue. They may not cut as well in spite of the additional weight.

You might also want to check the total weight with the heavier blades to see if that works on your tractor. A disk can stick out pretty far from the lift arms so a few hundred pounds at the back means a lot more lift needed at the 3 ph.
 
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What will be your use for the disk? Heavier blades will obviously last longer in sandy soil where scouring is an issue. They may not cut as well in spite of the additional weight.

You might also want to check the total weight with the heavier blades to see if that works on your tractor. A disk can stick out pretty far from the lift arms so a few hundred pounds at the back means a lot more lift needed at the 3 ph.
Those only weigh 750#

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What will be your use for the disk? Heavier blades will obviously last longer in sandy soil where scouring is an issue. They may not cut as well in spite of the additional weight.

You might also want to check the total weight with the heavier blades to see if that works on your tractor. A disk can stick out pretty far from the lift arms so a few hundred pounds at the back means a lot more lift needed at the 3 ph.
Pulling it with a 5055E. I don't think I need to worry about having too much weight. Soil is clay loam and sandy clay loam. I never thought about the likelihood that thicker disk blades won't penetrate as well as thin ones. Something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have the Ford/Dearborn 3pt 8ft tandem disk. It only weighs 750#, so it can handle the lightweight duty. I would not bother trying to make it heavy duty as it does not weigh enough to take advantage of that. The only thing I did to mine was to cut off the angle iron from the 3pt to the disk and replace it with chains to give me more flexibility since I have the hyd top link. I have had it 6 1/2 years.

Dave
Not sure we are talking about the same disk. Is this what you have?

Plant Plant community Wood Vegetation Land lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah. I have spent a little bit of time on the net searching for one that looks like this. The closest example I found was an 11 foot 8M___. Mine has a Ford Motor Company data plate on it. It was painted over previously and is difficult to read. I should have the model number on it. Maybe I can figure that out with a little work.
 
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