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This is my first post, sorry if I’m in the wrong section

I have a John Deer riding mower model 125A since 2006 and never had any problems until this spring (will explain later). Never had to do any repairs but I do maintain the tractor regularly and every winter before I store it in the cabana I winterize it properly including oil undercoating.

Last spring, like before, the mower started within the first couple of turns and I started cutting the grass but after about 10 minutes the engine stopped. Could not find the reason and trying to start again she started with no problem. It did the same another couple of times but I was able to finish my job, takes me about 1 hour to cut the grass. Then for the rest of the summer never had any more problems.

Two weeks ago I started mulching the leaves and after about 10 minutes again the engine stopped. Somehow I felt it had to do with some kind of a sensor like the one under the seat and so I put a tape to hold the sensor closed. Now she started but stopped again after 2-3 minutes. Did the same for another 2-3 times and the same happen again, she starts for 2-3 minutes and then she stops.

When I was trying to start it I noticed when I turn the ignition switch ON sometimes nothing happens like there is no battery and then when I turn the ignition switch ON/OFF a few times the engine will start. Looked to me perhaps the ignition switch went bad because when I turn the switch sometimes I can see I have power and sometimes I have nothing.

Eventually she started again and was able to finish my job and park her inside my cabana. If it was a gas problem she will never start or when the engine starts the sound will be different but no, when she starts the engine runs like new. To my opinion it must be an electrical problem perhaps somewhere a loose wire but I don’t know where to look for.

Any ideas?
 

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Sounds like potentially a simple fix.
My guess and first place I would check are the battery connections. Take them apart and clean them up. Then check all the electrical connections. If they're the plug type, un-plug/plug them back in. Maybe put the proper tool on them (if they're not visibly corroded) and tighten them a bit.
The next place I would check is the key switch for corrosion or a loose connection.
 

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Oskar, I'm not familiar with the 126 mower, BUT, I'd look at 2 areas. First, the seat switch. Remove the switch and put a jumper in the wires...a piece of wire will do, you don't need terminals for this "test." Next, I'd replace the ignition switch...should be only $30/$35, even in Canada! Finally, get a wiring diagram. You could (???) have control modules with times.

Try jumping seat switch first and also follow wires back to be certain they're not bare/cracked and shorting out. Bob
 

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This is my first post, sorry if I’m in the wrong section

I have a John Deer riding mower model 125A since 2006 and never had any problems until this spring (will explain later). Never had to do any repairs but I do maintain the tractor regularly and every winter before I store it in the cabana I winterize it properly including oil undercoating.

Last spring, like before, the mower started within the first couple of turns and I started cutting the grass but after about 10 minutes the engine stopped. Could not find the reason and trying to start again she started with no problem. It did the same another couple of times but I was able to finish my job, takes me about 1 hour to cut the grass. Then for the rest of the summer never had any more problems.

Two weeks ago I started mulching the leaves and after about 10 minutes again the engine stopped. Somehow I felt it had to do with some kind of a sensor like the one under the seat and so I put a tape to hold the sensor closed. Now she started but stopped again after 2-3 minutes. Did the same for another 2-3 times and the same happen again, she starts for 2-3 minutes and then she stops.

When I was trying to start it I noticed when I turn the ignition switch ON sometimes nothing happens like there is no battery and then when I turn the ignition switch ON/OFF a few times the engine will start. Looked to me perhaps the ignition switch went bad because when I turn the switch sometimes I can see I have power and sometimes I have nothing.

Eventually she started again and was able to finish my job and park her inside my cabana. If it was a gas problem she will never start or when the engine starts the sound will be different but no, when she starts the engine runs like new. To my opinion it must be an electrical problem perhaps somewhere a loose wire but I don’t know where to look for.

Any ideas?
Check your grounds. With electronic ignitions if you lose your ground it to may also shut down. I would start there. Make sure all are not corroded and are clean and tight. That is a cheap first start to fixing this. I'd also check if you have spark when it quits.
Bill
 

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Clean up your battery, starter, ground connections. Then load test your battery , not with a volt meter, with a load tester.
 

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Make sure the fuse holder isn't corroded. Unplug and reinstall the fuse to make help clean it up.

What's the fuel filter look like? Has it been changed? It sounds like it may be starving for fuel. The only reason one of those engines shuts off is either a) because they have no spark or b)a fuel mix change (either getting to much air in proportion to fuel or to much fuel in proportion to air. This is why choking it when hot kills the engine) If the filter is clogged or old, it may be restricting fuel to the carb.
 

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The most common issue on a stall would be that the vent hole in the gas cap is plugged. Your intermittent crank could be a connector or starter solenoid issue as others have stated but possibly unrelated to the stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Battery connections were just taken apart and cleaned and the air vent on the gas tank is cleaned. No visible corrosion on the ignition switch.

I would like to jump the seat switch but there are 4 wires on it and I don’t know which ones need to be jumped. Will try to get a wiring diagram (I have a good users guide but no wiring diagram). I don’t mind to get a new ignition switch if I decide that’s the final option.

I don’t know where the ground is but I will find it and check as needed. That’s a good point because I’m sure my problem is electrical related. The same for the starter will check all connections. Also I don’t know where the fuse holder is but I will find it and check

Thank you all for the help, you raised some very good points which I will investigate / fix.
 

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My gator will do this sometimes. Key on, no lights on the dash, fuel pump or ignition. There is one fuse that if i wiggle it everything starts backs up. It has not acted up in a year but did it again yesterday.
 

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Battery connections were just taken apart and cleaned and the air vent on the gas tank is cleaned. No visible corrosion on the ignition switch.

I would like to jump the seat switch but there are 4 wires on it and I don’t know which ones need to be jumped. Will try to get a wiring diagram (I have a good users guide but no wiring diagram). I don’t mind to get a new ignition switch if I decide that’s the final option.

I don’t know where the ground is but I will find it and check as needed. That’s a good point because I’m sure my problem is electrical related. The same for the starter will check all connections. Also I don’t know where the fuse holder is but I will find it and check

Thank you all for the help, you raised some very good points which I will investigate / fix.
There may be many grounds. The one at the other end of the negative terminal wire is a good place to start. All grounds beyond that are dependent upon that main one. Yes a good wiring diagram will show you all the grounds necessary.
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brigs & Stratton Family: 6BSXS. 7242VF 276480
Engine: 050923Y400452
OHV: Model 441577
Type: 0113 E1
Code: 050923YH

As mentioned, the problem sound like electrical. Engine works great (when works)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My gator will do this sometimes. Key on, no lights on the dash, fuel pump or ignition. There is one fuse that if i wiggle it everything starts backs up. It has not acted up in a year but did it again yesterday.
That sound like my problem and the solution, tomorrow I will look for the fuse box (if I have one)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Reason I asked is, it may have a fuel shutoff solenoid at the carb, if it loses voltage, it will shut off fuel flow.

Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Please see my previous post with the engine details

I don’t think I have a fuel shutoff solenoid but if I do it sound right because when the engine stops she doesn’t just stop, it takes about 5-8 seconds and she spatters a lot like she starves from gas or current.

Sounds like I don’t know very much about my tractor, lol, but since I never had any issues I never had the time to pay attention to details.
 

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Please see my previous post with the engine details

I don’t think I have a fuel shutoff solenoid but if I do it sound right because when the engine stops she doesn’t just stop, it takes about 5-8 seconds and she spatters a lot like she starves from gas or current.

Sounds like I don’t know very much about my tractor, lol, but since I never had any issues I never had the time to pay attention to details.
See now this is why we talk things out and ask so many questions. Sputting is a symptom you had not mentioned before. When it does will the exhaust smell rich (lack of spark) or perhaps sound a little like a backfire? May be a failing ignition module, or a bad ground to the module.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
See now this is why we talk things out and ask so many questions. Sputting is a symptom you had not mentioned before. When it does will the exhaust smell rich (lack of spark) or perhaps sound a little like a backfire? May be a failing ignition module, or a bad ground to the module.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
The exhaust does not smell anything unusual neither backfires, it just sound like when the engine runs out of gas or bad ground somewhere.

Tractor sits now in the cabana so weather / time permitting I will have to get her into the garage to do any required work. I know now where the fuse is and also I was able to get from the web a wiring schematic from another John Deer tractor which gives me at least an idea how things are connected.

Thanks again for all the good help, I will keep you posted when I’m done
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Today I did what I had to do. Tractor sitting in the cabana for 2 weeks started with the first turn drove to my garage and took apart the engine cover. Did not find anything unusual but cleaned all electrical connections including the solenoid under the carb. Fuse and fuse holder are not corroded neither any other connection I found.

As mentioned the problem of stalling for no reason happens occasionally so I have to wait to see if it happens again and then decide my next step

Attached a couple of pictures
 

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