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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I think Steve might have convinced me to build my own....IF I do, the BB is good as gone...Hindsight being 20/20, I think I'd prefer a LP over a BB...not that i've used a LP before, but for whatever reason it seems to me to be a more useful tool.
One thing that I definetly want is scarifiers....

I do have a few Q's though...
-Are there any "Best Practice" Reccomendations on the angle of the 2 cutting edges. Or does it not even matter in the bigger picture?
-How about spacing between the 2 cutting edges?
 

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Dave,

Most of the double edged grader blades I have found are made to be set at 45 degrees. If I were to build one again trying to shoot for efficient use of iron I would use a 5" x 1/2" angle iron with the fingers layed down. Drill the holes for the grader blades before you weld it up. Long skids work the best, I would build one with 72" skids and 72" width to use with a 3X20 tractor. So place the blades about 30" apart or less. Five inch heavy wall tube for the scarifiers and mounting should work about right. Build the side skids up about 12 to 14 inches height and with 4" width bottom runners. Best to build these skids so that they do not hold materials or rocks in cracks and crevices. Mine holds some rocks and means I have to spend more time cleaning it.

Enclosed is a pic of mine built last year. This has straight blades for lawn smoothing but you can build them with an angle too.
 

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I should add that next week if the weather holds I will be working over one of the customers yards trying to smooth it out for next year. I will post some pics then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Most of the double edged grader blades I have found are made to be set at 45 degrees.
Glad I asked these questions!
I was referring to the angle of the blades in relation to the sideboards...You mention you made yours square/90 degrees to the sideboards...In doing my research for this project I've seen pics of all kinds of setups...straight blades like you have, various angles, some set at opposite angles instead of parallel...etc... Having never used a land plane before I didnt know if there were some advantages of a particular style over another.

I would build one with 72" skids and 72" width to use with a 3X20 tractor. So place the blades about 30" apart or less. Five inch heavy wall tube for the scarifiers and mounting should work about right. Build the side skids up about 12 to 14 inches height and with 4" width bottom runners.

LOL, I'm gonna keep with my "Spudland_Dave" Tradition of never making anything normal and make it something along the lines of 75" wide or so :lol:...But seriously, I was thinking I'll probably just order 2 84" Cutting edges and see what that gives me for width when I set them at the desired angle..I'd hate to buy an 84" cutting edge and cut off 6-10"...and then buy the 5" Tubing however long I need it.

Best to build these skids so that they do not hold materials or rocks in cracks and crevices. Mine holds some rocks and means I have to spend more time cleaning it.
Know exactly what you mean...and I'm thinkin how I can fix that...I was going to use the flat edge there to bolt on a replaceable "wear strip" under the sideboard...

Enclosed is a pic of mine built last year. This has straight blades for lawn smoothing but you can build them with an angle too.
Nice Work! So, coming back to the whole "angle of the blade" question...do you feel your straight blade setup is better then the angled blade setup like the 1172 pic attached? Why so?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I should add that next week if the weather holds I will be working over one of the customers yards trying to smooth it out for next year. I will post some pics then.
Too bad you werent closer Steve, I'd let you borrow the power rake I built...its one of them tools you'd say "How did I ever live without it" :yahoo:
 

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I think the angle of set would depend on your use for the tool. If you intend to crown a road it helps a little. My main use is to smooth and plane lawn areas flat, I don't want the material drifting to the edge.

If I need to build a crown and/or cut a ditch I use a rearblade, much more control over what happens.

Another difference in my plane is the blades are set flush with the bottom wearstrips. It isn't necessary to make the plane dig in as much as to have it shave off what is sticking up. Recognize the plane skids or runners will dig in slightly on their own, so setting the blades down lower only means it scrapes all the time While this may appear to be doing more it is moving dirt needlessly.

Adding the ripper teeth so that you can use them when desireable would be a good addition for rough gravel drives. My plane is heavy enough that it works well without them most jobs. I think it is a good idea to add the rippers though.
If I build another full size plane I will add a hydraulic scarifier toothbar to it.

I mentioned using the 5" tubing for mounting the scarifiers as that is how mine are mounted on the Frontier bb1284 pictured below. I mentioned the 5" angle iron because I had tried to use a heavy 3" angle and did not have enough room. It is possible to use the 4" angle as most cost saving manufacturers use but the 5" angle would add ample strength and weight you need. No deflection desired.


I remember looking at your pics of the power rake and was impressed with your abilities, have considered doing this myself. What did you do about the teeth as I cant find any carbide points to work with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think the angle of set would depend on your use for the tool. If you intend to crown a road it helps a little. My main use is to smooth and plane lawn areas flat, I don't want the material drifting to the edge.

If I need to build a crown and/or cut a ditch I use a rearblade, much more control over what happens.
Makes sense...mebbe I'll try "both"....angle the front cutting edge and put the rear cutting edge square.. With the power rake, I can only see using this for driveway maintenance, spreading gravel, etc... the PR isnt for jobs like that.
Speaking of Rear Blades, started one of those too...see attached pics. I got the front "hitch frame" done...welded in the sleeve for the blade rotator...

Another difference in my plane is the blades are set flush with the bottom wearstrips. It isn't necessary to make the plane dig in as much as to have it shave off what is sticking up. Recognize the plane skids or runners will dig in slightly on their own, so setting the blades down lower only means it scrapes all the time While this may appear to be doing more it is moving dirt needlessly.
I was first thinkin of making mine adjustable....but after hearing what you said, it makes PERFECT sense...

Adding the ripper teeth so that you can use them when desireable would be a good addition for rough gravel drives. My plane is heavy enough that it works well without them most jobs. I think it is a good idea to add the rippers though.
If I build another full size plane I will add a hydraulic scarifier toothbar to it.
Like the Hyd. scarifier option...if you wouldnt mind, I would like to see more pics of how the linkage and such works on your BB1284. No rush tho..

I remember looking at your pics of the power rake and was impressed with your abilities, have considered doing this myself. What did you do about the teeth as I cant find any carbide points to work with?
Thanks for the kind words. Teeth...ended up using AR steel....didnt break the bank and did the trick. Like my bro said...even with A36 steel, if you wear out 2" worth of steel, chances are you'll have gotten your money's worth and have enough left in your pocket to go buy a Harley rake. BUT even then at that point I could probably just re-tooth this one and have it for another 10 years. I used it alot this spring/summer and theres no appreciable wear on the teeth. Carbide would be nice, but at the same time I dont think the ROI is there for a guy like me...
 

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Dave:

Did you start a thread on your rear blade build? I'd sure like to see what you came up with.
 

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Dave,
I will get some pics of the box linkage Saturday.


About your pivot linkage, looks as though you are building this up IMatch compatible, so consider that the vertical center mast can be made to support the main beam swivel, maybe that is the next step? Looks good so far though.
 

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Thanks Dave for the thread link!
 
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