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Man, I am off the forum for a couple days and someone rolls a 39R, how did I miss this.

Making light of the situation now, but like everyone else, glad you are okay and hopefully the only damage is some scrapes on that beautiful green paint and maybe a light or two. Very interested in the engine outcome, please keep us posted on that. Always hard to read a picture for grade of a slope, but the picture above looks WAY steeper than what the first picture appeared like, possibly 30 degrees or more in that section.

And thank you, I believe I'll order spacers for mine now.
 

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I must have a more trusting relation ship with my insurance agent or a better company. If he has insurance that will cover I’d just come out ask. I’d say something like it will cost $2000 to fix my tractor, what will happen to my rates? I don’t see an insurance company dropping you for that kind of question but I’ve been with my agent for 35 years.

Also my understanding is home owners won’t cover this. I have mine financed with JD and had to get insurance for the tractor , so this kind of accident would be coverEd by that and not homeowners. A lot of it depends on the damage, it might be a few hundred dollars or several thousand.
 

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I must have a more trusting relation ship with my insurance agent or a better company. If he has insurance that will cover I’d just come out ask. I’d say something like it will cost $2000 to fix my tractor, what will happen to my rates? I don’t see an insurance company dropping you for that kind of question but I’ve been with my agent for 35 years.
It's not that you have a more trusting relationship. It's that you're trusting :p

If you have that conversation with an insurance agent of the insurance company, they are keeping record of it, it is a factor in your rate, and it is a factor in their decisions to continue coverage. The person you are talking to is an employee of the insurance company (state farm, allstate, etc). They talking to you on the insurance company's phone, typing on the insurance company's computer, following insurance company procedures. Which is entirely focused on the best interest of the insurance company.

If you are working through a local insurance broker, that is different. Like the Uncle Cleatus Family Insurance Brokerage Company downtown. In that case, you're not talking to an insurance agent of the insurance company. You're talking to a private company's salesman who sells insurance policies from a variety on insurance companies. That insurance broker works for you, not the insurance company. What you tell him is not being recorded into record at the insurance company because he's not working for or connected the company actually issuing the insurance policy. You can talk to this guy all day long without much worry.

Based on your description, I'm guessing you're dealing with the latter. In which case, you are not talking to the insurance company or agent. You're talking to your broker.
 

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@Brads Vineyard good to see you’re ok.
FWIW I never operate without a seatbelt, unless it’s unloading the backhoe in the sea container (which I have lower the ROPS) and then I’m really careful. Otherwise, it’s ROPS and a seat belt always. I’ve copped a fair bit of flack over the years, but I love my wife and kids and I won’t risk it.
I think you have a great opportunity here. When the 3R is back, I’d be looking at using that sweet 870 as the yard tractor, setting the wheels to their widest and maybe looking at an additional mower with side offset or even a flail mower with hydraulic side shift for those hills. The side shift flails are popular here in Australia around the vines because they leave a clean mulch that’s easy for the pickers to walk on. They’re more compact too, so it’s easier turning at the head of the row. Others suggested front weights, I think that’d be a more stable option, than the FEL, but the bracket might fowl the FEL. Vineyards are a difficult operating environment, if you can make it work with task/area specific tractors, then keeping the vineyard machine in the vines might be the safest answer.
Best of luck, mate.
 

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Oh, for those who were thinking about the crank turning conundrum, when you want to turn the crank back a bit, or if you can’t get to the bolt head on the crank, a very large flat screw driver can be used as a lever against the bell housing and the teeth of the ring gear, that big gear the starter motor uses to turn the motor. That’s how you get to top dead center for valve and spark timing etc.
Those big screw drivers work just as hard in reverse, or are just as hard to work in reverse....
So next time one of our machines wants a drink from the dam or a mower that’s wants a nap on the lawn, the screw driver and ring gear might help you out.
 

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Well, apparently the 3039r is a little more top heavy than my old 870.

I was mowing a slope that I mow every year with my 870. I have to be careful with the 870 (keep the bucket down, watch my speed, ect.) But apparently it has a lower center of gravity than my 3039r. I had the bucket down and was going slow when it tipped over. I felt it start to go and immediately pushed the bucket all the way down but it was too late.

I was not buckled in (I will be in the future) and stepped off on the downhill side. I was really lucky I almost got crushed.

The tractor was on its side for about an hour. When I got it righted it was still on the slope and not completely stable. So I decided to try and start it so I could get it to a safe location. You guessed it I locked it up. In hind sight I know better than to immediately start an engine after a rollover. But I was by myself and wanted to get things to a safe state and completely forgot.

I was able to drag it to a flat area with my other tractor where is it sitting now. I am going to let it sit overnight and see if the oil drains. But I am going to guess that I need to pull the glow plugs or injectors to get the oil out.

Anyone know how difficult it is to pull the glow plugs on a 3039r?

Hopefully I did not bend a rod.
Glad to hear you are ok and safe! You are one lucky cat.
 

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So glad you came out ok. Just about any hardware can be fixed for money. People not always so much.
 

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Thank you for sharing the details, pics, etc! I‘m buying a used 3033R — my first real tractor — and your posts and everyone’s replies have been a great intro to the community. Parts of my property are hilly, full of holes, and scary. This thread has really sensitized me to how I need to operate and equip the tractor. Really glad you’re safe and were willing/able to share. TY
 

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Never too old to learn...I still hate seat belts.
The question isn't do you like or "hate seat belts", but did you learn? Do you use your belt now when working on rough, uneven, or sloping terrain or do you prefer the greatly increased odds of causing your own death?

I guess I balance the odds and choose to use or not use my tractor seat belt, depending on what the job is. If it's level, smooth and known/familiar situations I don't buckle in.
However, whenever I am on a slope, using a stump bucket to dig, or mowing in areas where there can be unknown washouts, holes, etc... I always buckle up. Not ready to be an organ donor yet.
 

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thanks for posting the warning.

glad you're ok. from the pic, it appears the roll bar did it's job - perhaps stopped the roll, and maybe saved you some damage.

you didn't have effects afterwards? totally ok?

it's been a few days, after uprighting, was the oil ok on dipstick? is it running now?

I have a spot out at the road, where when mowing, the lh tires are in the ditch, always makes me nervous...
 

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Well, apparently the 3039r is a little more top heavy than my old 870.

I was mowing a slope that I mow every year with my 870. I have to be careful with the 870 (keep the bucket down, watch my speed, ect.) But apparently it has a lower center of gravity than my 3039r. I had the bucket down and was going slow when it tipped over. I felt it start to go and immediately pushed the bucket all the way down but it was too late.

I was not buckled in (I will be in the future) and stepped off on the downhill side. I was really lucky I almost got crushed.

The tractor was on its side for about an hour. When I got it righted it was still on the slope and not completely stable. So I decided to try and start it so I could get it to a safe location. You guessed it I locked it up. In hind sight I know better than to immediately start an engine after a rollover. But I was by myself and wanted to get things to a safe state and completely forgot.

I was able to drag it to a flat area with my other tractor where is it sitting now. I am going to let it sit overnight and see if the oil drains. But I am going to guess that I need to pull the glow plugs or injectors to get the oil out.

Anyone know how difficult it is to pull the glow plugs on a 3039r?

Hopefully I did not bend a rod.
My 3039r has a cab and the center mass point is much higher in relation to the rear wheel width.....These tractors are prone to roll on slopes. I did put 5.5" spacers on the back axel and that dis improve it.....but its still disconcerning to me that JD will not redesign this issue. Glad your ok, cheers john
 

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My 3039r has a cab and the center mass point is much higher in relation to the rear wheel width.....These tractors are prone to roll on slopes. I did put 5.5" spacers on the back axel and that dis improve it.....but its still disconcerning to me that JD will not redesign this issue. Glad your ok, cheers john
 

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I did put 5.5" spacers on the back axel and that dis improve it.....but its still disconcerning to me that JD will not redesign this issue.
I don't see that there is any design issue.
For normal operation these machines are just fine, If your usage areas include slopes, spacers are available. You essentially made your tractor 11" wider. I would not have bought my 3039 if it were 11" wider. That would require my implements to all be wider and more clumsy as well.
The C in LCUT still stands for Compact.
 

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The only issue I see, is John Deere not having the correct instructions or any for that matter, in the operators manual for this machine, on how to adjust the wheel widths with R1 wheels.
 

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I do not wish to hijack the thread but since spacers have been brought up a few times, does anyone know exactly why John Deere suggests that spacers NOT be used on the 3R machines?
 

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My experience is that the loader raises the center of gravity quite a bit. Especially if you are running it raised very much at all. I never, never, ever do any type of 3 point hitch work with a loader on. That thing is a rollover waiting to happen. It's also a huge vision obstacle. It's why I got the single point connection. I can take mine off in 5 minutes and do so daily when I'm using my tractor.
 
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