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How do I get the pivot pin out of the ROPS on a 1025R. I tried beating it out and are starting to mushroom the end of the pin. Do I just need a bigger hammer? do I need a Stronger arm?
 

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You don't! It is press fit, you will need to press/pull it out mechanically.

I looked at taking mine out to do some work on it and it was obvious it wasn't designed to come out. You could hook a gear puller to it (somehow) or you can get it into a press (somehow) but you aren't going to bang it out. It felt like a .003" or better press fit.
 
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Mine had a clip on the inside of each, once that was off just used a regular hammer maybe took three or four hits and came free. Mine is a 2016 as well ... dunno what to say they came out no mushroom mine did have paint on them so I chipped that off first.
 
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Mine had a clip on the inside of each, once that was off just used a regular hammer maybe took three or four hits and came free. Mine is a 2016 as well ... dunno what to say they came out no mushroom mine did have paint on them so I chipped that off first.
Same here on a 2014 model. I had mine in/out numerous times while I was fabricating my new ROPS upper section. Remove the snap ring...tap it out past the knurled section and pull it the rest of the way by hand.
 

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I just had mine apart on my new 2017 1025R TLB last week to shorten the top section by 6". You guys are all great---but I'd rather not join the "club".

The pivot pin has a serration just below the head shoulder that is an interference fit into the ROPS hole. I utilized a 2 pound hammer and a large brass drift (1-1/4" diameter x 10"). I utilized the larger brass drift to prevent "mushrooming" the end of the pin. I started with a 16oz ball pine hammer, but after a couple of blows and it not budging, I spotted the edge of the serration and knew it was going to take something larger.

Check at your local steel supply house for the brass stock. If you don't have brass drifts, see what they have and get yourself an assortment. That is where I obtained mine many years ago. I have two of each size. One for heavy hammering, as the ends will mushroom and the others for use in the press or other applications that don't involve pounding on them. In this manner, I have one set without the ends being mushroomed.

Brass is softer than steel, so it will not deform steel when having to hammer on it.
 

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Brass drifts are a great idea if you can find the material somewhere. All you need are some round stock scraps.

A brass hammer or two is a great addition to the toolbox. Works where drifts and nylon hammers don't. While you can get 10lb brass sledgehammers, 1 & 2 lb hammers are readily available online as they are stock machinist tools.

If you are going to repair machinery, you will need big heat and big hammers eventually!

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank for the help. The brass stock is a great idea. I think I'll try my steering wheel puller first. When I replace it I think I'll just put in normal pin.
 
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