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Discussion Starter #1
FedEx delivered my Ruegg 3PH. My son and I didn't waste any time getting it installed.

When I opened the Ruegg shipping box up, I was surprised to see a JD Installation Manual? Anyway, it was used for reference.
After messing with the hydraulic cylinder, and getting the fittings changed out, and hose extensions in place, the install went OK. The rockshaft control bar was a little confusing, getting it in correctly. Once I sorted that issue out, everything progressed fairly well. The Deere installation manual was more confusion, then help, really.

This is my first dealings with a 3PH. My installing it, gave me some understanding on how they operate. Getting the hydraulic cylinder out was the biggest time consumer. Once the new fittings and hoses were in place, the installation went OK. It was more trial-n-error figuring things out. At least I can say I didn't get frustrated to a point I was throwing wrenches. LOL. I did do a couple "step back-look" back to work moves though. All in all, the install went fine.

After the work underneath was finished, the hydraulic fluid was topped off.
Getting the arms and everything adjusted and leveled took a bit of time. That mainly was due to this being my first experience with these hitches. Everything is leveled and I think ready to go after final adjustments.

I'd like you folks to have a look at my handy work. Spot check everything for me if you don't mind, please.
I took pictures of (I think) everything relevant for your viewing. Please let me know if you see any potential issues.
https://postimg.cc/gallery/f6e17osm/
 

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Well it seems You finally Put the sale of that Cat 0 for the 140 to Good use.:bigthumb:

Looks Fine to Me except Get some Blitz Black or Muffler Black and Paint the Center Link.

It's the Only thing that drives Me Nuts On the Ruegg Kits They should Make it Look as OEM as Possible :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it seems You finally Put the sale of that Cat 0 for the 140 to Good use.:bigthumb:

I've been known to get side-tracked when I don't do what I had planned immediately. Other deals come to play, like my $375 box blade that I couldn't pass up. When going to get it, a MIG welding outfit come back with me as well. So planned intentions get delayed a bit. LOL


Looks Fine to Me except Get some Blitz Black or Muffler Black and Paint the Center Link.

I may be getting a hydraulic top-link so the lack of paint isn't a concern.


It's the Only thing that drives Me Nuts On the Ruegg Kits They should Make it Look as OEM as Possible :laugh:
I have a few gripes that I'm not happy with. I won't hang that here. Yet.
I'm going to give Bill a call about them.
 

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When I installed the CAT1 Ruegg hitch on my 455s, I had an instruction manual from a Deere CAT0. It helped immensely.

Actually, I prefer the center links with just the plating. It doesn't take much for them to get chipped up when they're painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Broken sway chain at lift arm

Well, I'm not sure what happened. The sway-chain link welded to the left arm is broke. I see two ways of fixing it.
1] Get a new length of chain, grind the old off, and reweld.
2] Grind the old link off smooth and drill a hole for a through-bolt, then bolt an anchor point something like (see below).
My vote is for #2. I've seen the bracket I've drawn, but I don't recall what it's called?
By the way, does anyone know where a bracket can be purchased?
 

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How about drilling/tapping a hole in the arm and then securing the chain to the arm with a bolt/washer?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
How about drilling/tapping a hole in the arm and then securing the chain to the arm with a bolt/washer?
That's what my above post is referencing. That bracket I've drawn up, they're already made and available. I just don't know what it's called to source them.
Bolting through a link is not an ideal way to go about it. Doing so changes the natural rotation of the chain.
 

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I was thinking skip the bracket and just bolt a link of the chain to the arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
After looking through my goodies on hand, here's my solution.
I may add another eyebolt to each arm to eliminate the entire weak link. Everything is Grade 8.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Picked up a used iMatch From A Deere Friend

Yesterday. And today with a hammer, punch, wire brush, air tools w/metal sanding and abrasive discs, I got it ready for paint.
It was just coated in light gray metal primer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I placed an order with McMaster-Carr for parts to rebuild the puny sway chains on my Ruegg 3PH. I found after talking to my Deere friend, the Deere 3PH chains are puny as well.
My order consisted of:
2 -High-Strength Fully Threaded Rod End Bolt, 5/16"-18 Shank Thread, 1-1/2" Shank Center Length
2 -Galvanized Steel Shackle with Alloy Steel Safety Pin - for Lifting, 1/4" Thick
The plan is to grind off the welded chain loops from the draft bars, then drill/tap to thread in the rod ends.
I'll cut the thread length 3/16" shy of the draftbar thickness, then pocket-weld for anti-rotation purposes.
I'm also replacing and going with heavier chain.
 

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I am beginning to like those weak spots cause on my old MF135 those were some strong chains! Yep ripped the mount right off the bottom of my axle and the chains were still good? Weak links may be engineered into the JDs for reasons? Broke the pin off that holds the 3 point Drag Links on one side so far. Glad it did not take out the hole or my lift arm. Just saying. Just remembered this when I was a teenager my buddy kept bowing his universals on his built 57 Chevy and bought some racing ones! Boy it ripped the 3rd member out instead the next time!! Those $18.00 universals were way cheaper. Course he could quit pulling power shifts all the time too!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't mind a "weak" link in the sway chains. It's where the weakness is. I did not expect the chainlink that was welded to the draft bar to let go. In my thinking that shouldn't happen. At the opposite end there's is a Yoke with a threaded eye. The eye is welded. I'm making this threaded eye the weak link by cutting that weld to open the loop. It's easier to replace a threaded eye than any of the rest considering what's involved. My reasoning is to increase strength when the implement (rock rake) is being used on a canted surface.
 

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I was a little Miffed when the pin broke and my blade dropped down(one corner) on the county dirt road and dug in while I was moving right along! John Deere gave me a new one for the old one. Manufacturing is cheaping out on lots of things now days!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was a little Miffed when the pin broke and my blade dropped down(one corner) on the county dirt road and dug in while I was moving right along! John Deere gave me a new one for the old one. Manufacturing is cheaping out on lots of things now days!!
I can imagine when the blade dropped, your surprised reaction.
You not kidding things are "cheap". We gotta keep them fellas at the landfills and scrap yards busy, don't ya know. Pay more = get less :nunu:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The sway chains have been upgraded.

Heavier chain.
High strength 5/16" rod ends threaded in and locked with jamb nuts.
High strength 1/4" (5/16" post) lifting shackles made in USA.
The welds were cut on the threaded eyes. Which now makes them the weak points. :thumbup1gif:
 

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