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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About 6 months old, is this normal? Seems like it would create problems down the road when the oxidation starts to flake off



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Try here...

 

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Yup, big discussion about it before. Long story short, your tractor's in warranty, get your dealer to change it. They might even let you change it yourself.
 

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Or vandalism...
I guess it could be, not really an area I'd expect that to happen in but you never know. I mentioned it to the sales guy the next time I stopped in and he didn't even react...kept on with the sales pitch so maybe happens all the time there.
 

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I have had this issue on my 5320 as well. My 1025R purchased this summer has already started to rust. I'm just going to replace as needed in both and keep going. The replacements are not that expensive. And by the way I always keep my tanks topped off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My dealer is picking up my tractor Wednesday and acted this isn't a very common problem for them, although they have the parts in stock :unsure: I don't expect it, but I hope they don't give me any grief over this.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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I have had this issue on my 5320 as well. My 1025R purchased this summer has already started to rust. I'm just going to replace as needed in both and keep going. The replacements are not that expensive. And by the way I always keep my tanks topped off.
My dealer is picking up my tractor Wednesday and acted this isn't a very common problem for them, although they have the parts in stock :unsure: I don't expect it, but I hope they don't give me any grief over this.
Just bad plating of the parts. The finish of the fuel filler neck shown in Andursun's earlier post is very flat and almost as if there is no plating on the part at all.

I am surprised this is still happening with tractors purchased this summer as the issue was noted back in early 2019 and there was some awareness of bad plating on these parts at that time by Deere.You would think the problem would have been resolved in that time and the parts plating issue straightened out. Apparently not. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My dealer just called me, they have had the tractor since Thursday last week. They couldn't find any cause for why the rust developed, fuel was clear of water and not cracks in the fuel tank. They replaced the sleeve that was rusted and also the tank cap. They think the check valve on the tank cap was faulty, what do you think about this? I agree with Sulley that it looks like poor plating, I'll post a picture of the new sleeve when I get it back. They are going to try and get it returned this evening, but it might be tomorrow. Done under warranty either way, so I'm only out a tractor for a week. Not a big deal this time of year.
 

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When (why?) did the tank filler switch to metal? My older 1025R has an all plastic tank, including the enormous filler cap and mouth.
It appears that S/N 120579 and after have the metal insert. S/N 120578 and prior do not.
 
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It appears that S/N 120579 and after have the metal insert. S/N 120578 and prior do not.
Interesting. I wonder what the engineering reason is for swapping out the plastic tank. Or, I suppose, it might be regulatory relating to emissions. That design looks much better sealed. I know that the umbrella caps on my plane's tanks do a much better job keeping water out over the slicker flush caps on the faster planes.
 

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Interesting. I wonder what the engineering reason is for swapping out the plastic tank. Or, I suppose, it might be regulatory relating to emissions. That design looks much better sealed. I know that the umbrella caps on my plane's tanks do a much better job keeping water out over the slicker flush caps on the faster planes.
The tanks are still plastic. They changed from a tank inlet with external threads to a tank inlet with internal threads - and also added the tether.

765580
 
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The tanks are still plastic. They changed from a tank inlet with external threads to a tank inlet with internal threads - and also added the tether.

View attachment 765580
Ah, yeah, you're right. I was thinking filler but wrote tank.

Ah, I think I found the reason! I'll take even bets it's all about part 16 on the second diagram...grounding strap. I wonder if they had a fire or something. Doesn't much matter to those of us that use it in a homeowner setting. I'm filling from yellow plastic cans. But might matter to someone filling from a transfer tank or directly from a station pump. Basically anywhere a pump is involved instead of gravity.
 

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It appears that S/N 120579 and after have the metal insert. S/N 120578 and prior do not.
This is one of those head scratching discrepancies in the parts catalog. My serial number is 225XXX, and I have the first design, with the all plastic filler and no metal inset. Even if you dropped to using the last 5 of my serial and the catalog serial, I still should have the metal insert. One of those that makes me say hmmm.

@arnoha ... take care of the fuel tank. The first design that we have is no longer available, and if I recall is over $700 to get the new tank and other pieces to replace it.
 
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This is one of those head scratching discrepancies in the parts catalog. My serial number is 225XXX, and I have the first design, with the all plastic filler and no metal inset. Even if you dropped to using the last 5 of my serial and the catalog serial, I still should have the metal insert. One of those that makes me say hmmm.
What is your S/N prefix? JD Parts only shows a single S/N break:

765600


Whereas the Owner's Manual selection shows several S/N ranges.

765601
 
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I have a 2016. It’s all plastic. I’m scratching my head too on why they would change it.
 
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My bad J.
1LV1025RCEH225XXX, uses catalog PC11842. In the owners manual, it'd be the first one listed, 110001.

Here a screenshot of the catalog index inside group 30-Fuel and Air

765612


My tank is listed in sections ST745939 and ST875901. I didn't check every part in those sections against each other, but the tanks and caps are the same. But ST875901 should not be for my tractor, according to the serial break, though it is. This is why I scratch my head sometimes and go with what the drawing of the part looks like versus what the serial number break is.
 
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