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This is one of those head scratching discrepancies in the parts catalog. My serial number is 225XXX, and I have the first design, with the all plastic filler and no metal inset. Even if you dropped to using the last 5 of my serial and the catalog serial, I still should have the metal insert. One of those that makes me say hmmm.

@arnoha ... take care of the fuel tank. The first design that we have is no longer available, and if I recall is over $700 to get the new tank and other pieces to replace it.
Yeah, I noticed the crazy cost when I looked up the diagram on the JD site. It applies to all 1025R. Old or new, the cost is about $700. It appears to be a drop-in replacement old to new. It seems you can't order the tank without the fuel gauge, which I'm sure is part of what makes the cost so silly.

I've pretty much convinced myself this is about getting a metal spout grounded to the chassis of the tractor to avoid sparks. Diesel doesn't ignite quite as easily as gasoline, but try hard to enough to hurt yourself and you'll succeed.

The only other thing I can think of is that there were warranty claims on the neck and they wanted to go with something replaceable. Maybe folks were hanging cans and nozzles directly on the plastic, cracking the $700 part?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The new sleeve and cap...

Plating looks nice and shiny on this one




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Maybe they had some cracking from fuel nozzles left hanging in them??? The emissions idea isn’t bad either. Just checked mine last night as I haven’t in a while. Plating does look poor like SB mentioned but no rust. It does live a good life though.


Well heck. Somehow the other posts popped up.
 

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My filler insert did this too, but the rust was a lot worse. And it seemed to do this in a couple of days. I bought the part and replaced it myself. Now just waiting for it to rust again, and I’m diligent about keeping the tank full.
 

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1025R, '30 Ford, '08 Range Rover Supercharged, '63 MGB, '92 300ZX twin turbo, '73 Courier 2.3 turbo
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Interesting. I wonder what the engineering reason is for swapping out the plastic tank. Or, I suppose, it might be regulatory relating to emissions. That design looks much better sealed. I know that the umbrella caps on my plane's tanks do a much better job keeping water out over the slicker flush caps on the faster planes.
My Cessna T210 with flush fuel caps had an AD requiring replacement with umbrella caps to prevent water in the fuel. It was a good change. My 2016 1025R tank is plastic👌
This $700 change to the tractor seems like total overkill and a problem rather than a solution.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
December 8th I got my tractor back from having a new filler sleeve installed. This past weekend, I noticed the same thing happening but only worse. The machine has been setting for about a week or two at a little better than 3/4 full. There is a "crust" built up and the rust is forming under that crust. The dealer is replacing everything above the plastic tank again. They are going to send a tech to my house this time rather than take the tractor in.

772503
 

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December 8th I got my tractor back from having a new filler sleeve installed. This past weekend, I noticed the same thing happening but only worse. The machine has been setting for about a week or two at a little better than 3/4 full. There is a "crust" built up and the rust is forming under that crust. The dealer is replacing everything above the plastic tank again. They are going to send a tech to my house this time rather than take the tractor in.

View attachment 772503
It's weird that the threaded mouth has no rusting issues whatsoever, but the collar right beneath it is rusting so vigorously. The parts diagram shows them as one part...are they actually one piece and this is just the result of condensation inside the tank? Or are they two different materials, with the lower one chosen poorly? It looks like two materials to my eye. You'd think the wash of diesel over the parts would have a protective effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Its 1 piece, but it does look like the threaded area is treated differently than the piece below it that is rusting. To develop that heavy of a rust in basically 1 month almost seems like there was no protective coating on it at all. I didn't take a picture, but this time even the chain rusted in that same area. Right below the cap only.
 

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Hmmm, That sounds like galvanic corrosion: dissimilar metals reacting to each other. When tech comes out make sure he see's the rusted chain too! Bob
 
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December 8th I got my tractor back from having a new filler sleeve installed. This past weekend, I noticed the same thing happening but only worse. The machine has been setting for about a week or two at a little better than 3/4 full. There is a "crust" built up and the rust is forming under that crust. The dealer is replacing everything above the plastic tank again.
It looks to me like it only rusts below where the fuel cap threads end. There's probably enough Diesel coating the cap and filler neck threads where they meet to prevent oxidation. Below that is subject to condensation, and hence, rusting. Just a thought. Wish I had a cure for you.

Many moons ago, I spent a few months running a JD 5010 industrial. After a week or two the guy I worked for asked when I fueled it up. I told him in the morning after starting it while the engine warmed up. He told me to do it in the evening while it was cooling down. Keeping the tank full at night prevented having any in the air space in the tank and therefore no moisture to condense during the cold nights.
 

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It looks to me like it only rusts below where the fuel cap threads end. There's probably enough Diesel coating the cap and filler neck threads where they meet to prevent oxidation. Below that is subject to condensation, and hence, rusting. Just a thought. Wish I had a cure for you.

Many moons ago, I spent a few months running a JD 5010 industrial. After a week or two the guy I worked for asked when I fueled it up. I told him in the morning after starting it while the engine warmed up. He told me to do it in the evening while it was cooling down. Keeping the tank full at night prevented having any in the air space in the tank and therefore no moisture to condense during the cold nights.
This what I've always been told about my planes, too. Keep them full at the end of the day to prevent issues. Of course, no one is worried about rusting, as it's nearly all aluminum, but instead to make damn sure there's no water waiting to make your day very, very bad.

And I never do fill them up, despite that. If I fill the tanks to the top at the end of the day, I can't put everyone I want to put in the plane the next day as I run out of useful load. I've never had issues, but the humidity around here is generally low. I basically never find water in the sumps. This could definitely be different somewhere like Florida where you might as well be swimming in the air. I think the OP is in OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
This what I've always been told about my planes, too. Keep them full at the end of the day to prevent issues. Of course, no one is worried about rusting, as it's nearly all aluminum, but instead to make damn sure there's no water waiting to make your day very, very bad.

And I never do fill them up, despite that. If I fill the tanks to the top at the end of the day, I can't put everyone I want to put in the plane the next day as I run out of useful load. I've never had issues, but the humidity around here is generally low. I basically never find water in the sumps. This could definitely be different somewhere like Florida where you might as well be swimming in the air. I think the OP is in OK?
Yes I’m in Northeast Oklahoma, and in the hot months the humidity can be pretty brutal. It’s not as bad in the winter. This last sleeve last 5 weeks, spanning December and January. Possibly the least humid months of the year. I have raw steel sitting outside for over a year that doesnt look this “bad”.


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I don’t know if these helps or not but I have a little bit of corrosion in the neck but not bad. When I fill up I get a little fuel up into the neck to coat the area that corrode. I shake the tractor a little and usually get a few bubbles that will give me room to get the cap on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So I got the new sleeve installed today. It’s very clear the part that is not the brilliant silver color is what is oxidizing.

This sleeve feels like it’s installed better, the previous one would shift a bit when I took of the fuel cap. This is very solid feeling, no movement. We’ll see how long it lasts.






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About 6 months old, is this normal? Seems like it would create problems down the road when the oxidation starts to flake off



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my 1023 e is about 5 yo, 300+ hrs and the rust was so bad, the fuel filter was almost completely blocked off causing my engine to bog down. Ag-Pro says that JD will not cover it. I reported it to them 2 years ago and it just got worse. It’s just been replaced. Yours is going to get a lot worse. Everyone advises to keep your tank filled to limit moisture build up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
my 1023 e is about 5 yo, 300+ hrs and the rust was so bad, the fuel filter was almost completely blocked off causing my engine to bog down. Ag-Pro says that JD will not cover it. I reported it to them 2 years ago and it just got worse. It’s just been replaced. Yours is going to get a lot worse. Everyone advises to keep your tank filled to limit moisture build up.
I've replaced mine 6 times now. JD will cover them, but probably not on a 5 year old machine as I think that is past the "bumper to bumper" warranty. I have had 5 replaced under warranty, I just changed the 6th on my own dime for a few reasons. The main one being I wasn't allowed to keep the old one on a warranty replacement, I wanted to try a POR15 fuel tank sealer on the old rusted sleeve. I just finished it a couple days ago, but it needs a minimum of 96 hours to cure. I'll probably wait a while to try it out.
 

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Sounds like a recall needs be to be implemented. Its a design flaw, clearly. What a pain in the butt, to have to go through this over and over again.
 
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Sounds like a recall needs be to be implemented. Its a design flaw, clearly. What a pain in the butt, to have to go through this over and over again.
Hmmm. Another fix of something that was made right the first time. My 2013 does not have that insert. The tank neck is all plastic. Mine won't rust. Oh well. The fix will probably be like the fix for the air intake. Go back to the original tank design. They ought t o stop hiring young engineers who "know it all"!
 
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So I recently got the Tera pump with the auto-shutoff...if you let it fill till the shutoff the fuel is up at the metal collar, if I was filling it myself I'd probably not let it get that high. Wonder if the diesel is reacting to the metal when filled up to the rim versus if filled lower it's just down at the plastic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
So I recently got the Tera pump with the auto-shutoff...if you let it fill till the shutoff the fuel is up at the metal collar, if I was filling it myself I'd probably not let it get that high. Wonder if the diesel is reacting to the metal when filled up to the rim versus if filled lower it's just down at the plastic?
I do think it is some kind of a chemical reaction, which makes the whole thing stupid. The fuel is going to slosh around in the tank and coat the metal sleeve anytime the tank is full. Deere runs this style sleeve on 1 through 3 series machines I'm pretty sure. If it was going to be recalled, it would have by now. I can't explain why some folks have problems and others don't. I have had my fuel tested and it met the specs required by Deere. My dealer told me so many times that it isn't a common problem, and that I'm the only person to file a warranty case with Deere about it. That's all a bunch of BS, why do they keep the sleeve in stock all over the nation if it isn't a problem? It is like nails on a chalk board for me. I had a lot of energy about trying to get this "fixed" when my first sleeve rusted. I'm tired of dealing with my dealer and Deere on it now. They don't care how many times they replace it, they just did the same thing 5 times over. I bought and replaced it on my own this time and more than likely Deere won't replace another under warranty as I'm not passed the full warranty on my machine. If the POR15 coating doesn't work, I'll try something else (powder coating?).
 
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