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Was out pricing a 5 and 6 series for the farm, but at the front door of the dealer was a 1025R with this plow set-up.
Has hydraulic angle and quick-tacs onto the loader. All steel, can't imagine the weight. Though I do like the skid shoes.
 

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I see it has the new cordless hydraulics on it. Those things are pretty slick.... :banghead:

On a more serious note. Looks pretty cool.

What is the reasoning behind the moldboard profile on the blade? Does it help prevent snow from sticking or something? Their website specifically lists it as a feature. Don't know that I have noticed it before.
 

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HLA/ Horst builds some quality stuff. Heavy, but quality. I have one of their fork frames that I converted from 500 series QA to Global. They did an excellent job welding it all up as a 500 series...:flag_of_truce::laugh:

Most of their stuff seems like it would be a bit heavy for a one series though...
 

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HLA/ Horst builds some quality stuff. Heavy, but quality. I have one of their fork frames that I converted from 500 series QA to Global. They did an excellent job welding it all up as a 500 series...:flag_of_truce::laugh:

Most of their stuff seems like it would be a bit heavy for a one series though...
Now I am not looking at the numbers (weight and lifting capabilities of a 1 series) but I don't see the weight as a bad thing. Look at it this way. There are lots of times where I put down pressure on my blade. Of course this means I loose steering in the process. With a loader you can still put down pressure on the blade but you may not need it as much. Also lifting the weight of the blade. Well it isn't like a bucket where you are lifting the weight of the attachment plus the weight of what is inside of it. It is just the weight of the blade. You don't pick stuff up with your blade other than a little bit that might stick to it.

I like the looks of their snow pusher.

HLA Snow | 2500 SnowPusher
 

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Also interesting that they advertise a crossover relief valve and use a single DA cylinder for angling...all the "experts" say that won't work :laugh:
 

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Nice set up. I like it better than the 54" hydraulic power angle plow I had on my 1025R.
 

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Was out pricing a 5 and 6 series for the farm, but at the front door of the dealer was a 1025R with this plow set-up.
Has hydraulic angle and quick-tacs onto the loader. All steel, can't imagine the weight. Though I do like the skid shoes.
392# shipped when mine was delivered:munch:

Also interesting that they advertise a crossover relief valve and use a single DA cylinder for angling...all the "experts" say that won't work :laugh:
The way they build the mounts and cutouts into the frame, they can only use one. They would have to redesign a lot of supports to use 2 SA cyl's.

Mine originally had manual angle, I upgraded to a single DA cyl, biggest HD one I could fit into the frame-LOVE IT!
 

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392# shipped when mine was delivered:munch:



The way they build the mounts and cutouts into the frame, they can only use one. They would have to redesign a lot of supports to use 2 SA cyl's.

Mine originally had manual angle, I upgraded to a single DA cyl, biggest HD one I could fit into the frame-LOVE IT!
Looks l[ke a better more useful set up than Deere sells. and they sell more appropriate blade lengths too.
 

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Looks l[ke a better more useful set up than Deere sells. and they sell more appropriate blade lengths too.
Deere doesn't really sell any loader-mounted plows for the 1-series and 2-series tractors, only 3-series and above.

1 and 2-series are stuck with the 54" Quick Tach mount.
 

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Looks l[ke a better more useful set up than Deere sells. and they sell more appropriate blade lengths too.
Especially for the 1&2 series as I think they go down to 48", my 60" with some small rubber wings is great on my 2032r.
 
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Snow pushers also look awesome

You could clear an area pretty fast with one of these much moe efficient than a bucket.

HLA Snow | 2500 SnowPusher
 

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392# shipped when mine was delivered:munch:



The way they build the mounts and cutouts into the frame, they can only use one. They would have to redesign a lot of supports to use 2 SA cyl's.

Mine originally had manual angle, I upgraded to a single DA cyl, biggest HD one I could fit into the frame-LOVE IT!
I know this is a little old, but hey Balrog, what type of cylinder ends did you get on your cylinder? I just picked up a barely used HLA 1000 60" for my 1025r. Mine is an older version where the manual adjuster is a pin right behind the pivot pin assembly. But it does have a spot just like the newer ones for the hydraulic cylinder. I wasn't sure if it's supposed to be the same cross tube style cylinder as the newer ones are. Mine does have a cross tube attachment on the plow, and spherical bearing welded into the frame. Is yours the same on the frame end? If so I guess just a bolt goes from the bottom of the cross tube into the spherical bearing? HLA Snow couldn't tell me and I just need to make sure the right end type.
 

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I know this is a little old, but hey Balrog, what type of cylinder ends did you get on your cylinder? I just picked up a barely used HLA 1000 60" for my 1025r. Mine is an older version where the manual adjuster is a pin right behind the pivot pin assembly. But it does have a spot just like the newer ones for the hydraulic cylinder. I wasn't sure if it's supposed to be the same cross tube style cylinder as the newer ones are. Mine does have a cross tube attachment on the plow, and spherical bearing welded into the frame. Is yours the same on the frame end? If so I guess just a bolt goes from the bottom of the cross tube into the spherical bearing? HLA Snow couldn't tell me and I just need to make sure the right end type.
PM me or email me some pictures so I can compare yours with mine, I'm having trouble visualizing your plow adjustment setup from your description.

The cylinder I got had 1" (I think?) cross tube ends, the cylinder end was actually 90 degrees from where I needed it based on the hydraulic ports. I pulled the cylinder apart, cut the cross tube off and re welded it in the correct orientation-but for a $50 cylinder I couldn't complain!
 

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Thanks for the reply and picture. I will get some pictures tonight to show what I have better.

According to your pic mine is very similar. I know the 2008's were slightly different, but Horst says the frames are all the same, although I have found a few differences. Basically my manual angle is a pin that drops in right behind the center pivot point/swivel of the plow and has 3 adjustments. I have the cylinder mounts built into my plow and frame, but it's empty. Mine doesn't have the manual angling arm like the newer ones have that would replace the hydraulic cylinder.

Does the frame side of your hydraulic cylinder have a crosstube type connection just like the plow side? If so does it mount to a spherical bearing welded into the frame? Mine has a spherical bearing welded into the loader frame for the cylinder and I guess the cylinder would mount to it with a bolt. But I'll send some pictures tonight.

Thanks a bunch!
Steve
 

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Thanks for the reply and picture. I will get some pictures tonight to show what I have better.

According to your pic mine is very similar. I know the 2008's were slightly different, but Horst says the frames are all the same, although I have found a few differences. Basically my manual angle is a pin that drops in right behind the center pivot point/swivel of the plow and has 3 adjustments. I have the cylinder mounts built into my plow and frame, but it's empty. Mine doesn't have the manual angling arm like the newer ones have that would replace the hydraulic cylinder.

Does the frame side of your hydraulic cylinder have a crosstube type connection just like the plow side? If so does it mount to a spherical bearing welded into the frame? Mine has a spherical bearing welded into the loader frame for the cylinder and I guess the cylinder would mount to it with a bolt. But I'll send some pictures tonight.

Thanks a bunch!
Steve
I'd have to check to be sure but I think the frame side has something like what your describing. Strange they changed the adjustment methods though, your describing a plate and pin and I had a manual bar that I had to remove to install the cylinder.
 

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Ok here are a few pictures of my plow. As you can see the swivel adjustment is a pin is right behind the pivot pin. My attachment points are for a 2.5" crosstube on the plow and 1" diameter holes on both. Does the frame side of your plow look like mine? Pictures 3 and 4 are from the frame side top, and underside of attachment point. Also what type of pins did you use to attach the cylinder? I know the parts diagram calls for a fine thread bolt on the frame side.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Ok here are a few pictures of my plow. As you can see the swivel adjustment is a pin is right behind the pivot pin. My attachment points are for a 2.5" crosstube on the plow and 1" diameter holes on both. Does the frame side of your plow look like mine? Pictures 3 and 4 are from the frame side top, and underside of attachment point. Also what type of pins did you use to attach the cylinder? I know the parts diagram calls for a fine thread bolt on the frame side.

Thanks again for the help.
Yes, your plow does look just like mine-both frame and plow side points. 1" Dia and 2.5" cross tubes sound correct, I had to add a couple washers on one end of mine when I installed the cylinder so mine were likely only 2.25" or maybe even 2" but they work just fine.

I reused the hardware that held the manual bar, the plow side was a cross bolted pin and the frame side was a bolt, not sure about fine thread but it has a nylock nut. I'd say get whatever you can find that fits and works, I wouldn't stress too much about replicating their factory setup.

My cylinder ended up being a 3" x 8" with a 1.75" or so rod, I don't think I get quite all the range from it I would have from the manual bar-18" vs. 20" or so but it doesn't make much difference in the overall swing/angle.

It's OOs now, but they may have something similar http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/3X8X1-75-DA-HYD-CYL-3008FMW-1-2-NPT-9-5460-B.axd
 
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I see it has the new cordless hydraulics on it. Those things are pretty slick.... :banghead:

On a more serious note. Looks pretty cool.

What is the reasoning behind the moldboard profile on the blade? Does it help prevent snow from sticking or something? Their website specifically lists it as a feature. Don't know that I have noticed it before.
RE: moldboard profile.

Are you referring to what looks like the curve was made by small bends every few inches? Or the something else?

If the small bends, I see this making it stronger, so lighter ga metal could be used. I do not know of any other advantage :dunno:
 
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