[cparktd]

My only experience moving gravel was on a compact rental machine (A Terramite backhoe) and I was moving crusher run, some 1/4 down and some chips. All three were fairly easy to scoop and spread and back-drag to level.

Long story that is irrelevant... but for the current task I'd like to use a course base rock.
I'm afraid if I order the septic size (~2 inch) or even 1 1/4 inch crushed limestone my new 1025R FEL will not have the power to scoop them up from a pile or effectively spread them.

I simply don't have any experience with the larger material. I expect many here do and I ask you share your thoughts.

Thanks
TD

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Size of material is irrelevant, The 1025r will do it with ease. I have not done any stone work since I’ve had mine but I see no issue.

 

[Kbar]

You’ll be fine. Order the rock. Make sure you have adequate ballast, put it in 4WD Low and let er rip. I’ve spread crushed rock with mine and it does just fine. That little loader is quite robust for its size and equal to the task of anything that will fit in it. Crushed rock is heavy and will make it work so wide open throttle and take as big a scoop as your comfortable with, then go from there.

 

[coaltrain]

When scooping larger gravel with a loader a tooth bar is a big help with getting a full bucket.

 

[Kennyd]

When scooping larger gravel with a loader a tooth bar is a big help with getting a full bucket.

^^^^
THIS.

 

[Treefarmer]

I found with a 300 loader that it works best to drive into the pile with the bucket flat on the ground and then lift and roll back as I go forward. That cleans up the pile as you go plus it's a bit easier to get a full bucket load.

Spreading smaller stone was ok. I found it difficult to get a good spread with the larger stuff 2-3" because of the relatively small load in a bucket. Others may be better and I haven't spread any that size for a while.

 

[rwmeyer]

I know nothing about the 1025 tractors, but bring this up only because TD mentioned, " and back-drag to level."
I've read in various forums that extending the bucket cylinder rod while back-dragging can bend the cylinder rod. I believe the spec was the bucket should be not more than 40º from horizontal...ground level to bottom of bucket no more than 40º.
Hopefully, someone can chime in and say I'm right or wrong so that TD doesn't damage his cylinder rods! Bob

 

[Kbar]

Ive scooped 4-10” mixed cobble just fine without a tooth bar. Unless I was needing to rip or dig this 2” rock out of the ground, I wouldn’t just buy a tooth bar to get full scoops. The right angle and penetrating force of the OE bucket edge does fine. That said, having the stockpile on a level, hard surface helps a lot. Trying to scoop into a pile on bumpy, off grade, loose ground is going to be a challenge so pick wisely where you have it dumped

 

[coaltrain]

I know nothing about the 1025 tractors, but bring this up only because TD mentioned, " and back-drag to level."
I've read in various forums that extending the bucket cylinder rod while back-dragging can bend the cylinder rod. I believe the spec was the bucket should be not more than 40º from horizontal...ground level to bottom of bucket no more than 40º.
Hopefully, someone can chime in and say I'm right or wrong so that TD doesn't damage his cylinder rods! Bob

Maybe I am missing something but back dragging with the bucket I always have it level (horizontal) or slightly angled down.

Here’s an example of what you are talking about I think -

 

[rwmeyer]

Thanks Stan. But I can't get any volume to work and all I can do is look/watch. But the first and last views of him back-blading are the ones I'm talking about as being wrong...back of bucket is to vertical and cylinder rods extended too far. In the views in between, I'd guess bucket was about 20º, which to me, is "safe". Bob

 

[coaltrain]

Thanks Stan. But I can't get any volume to work and all I can do is look/watch. But the first and last views of him back-blading are the ones I'm talking about as being wrong...back of bucket is to vertical and cylinder rods extended too far. In the views in between, I'd guess bucket was about 20º, which to me, is "safe". Bob

Yes - exactly. He explains and shows how the rods of the cylinders are extended when the cutting edge of the bucket is pointing down. With all that rod extended it creates a weak point vs. when the rod is retracted into the cylinder.

In essence what he is saying is to have at least 1/2 the rod into the cylinder when back dragging which equates to about 40deg from level.

In my experience as I said I keep the bucket near level. The back of the bucket is the strongest part and good for dragging a pile back. Then for some fine tuning I will tilt the bucket down just slightly - just enough so the cutting edge is the only thing making contact.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

This is from the 120R manual. 15° forward scrape, 40° back dragging.

 

[rwmeyer]

Thanks Mark. That's EXACTLY what I was looking for! Bob

 

[cparktd]

OK Great! I've read all the comments carefully and it seems I will be fine! Thats great news.

Haven't got my tires filled yet or any wheel weights but I figure the back-hoe will do for ballast for now.

I have read about the bent cylinder issue... thanks for looking out for me!

2 jobs.. The gravel pile for one will be on an existing turn around area and is hard packed with some remaining gravel so should be ok
The other job I have the option to have the gravel dumped on a concrete slab or on a previously graveled area either one.

I had decided to add a tooth bar and I like the Piranha but believe they are backorder only. I may call them.

You guys rock... no pun intended...
Glad I found this forum.
TD

 

[kettch]

I learned a lot about the loader from this TTWT video.

 

[dodgeman]

I have moved rip rap with my 2025r, the same loader you have on a 1025r. Rip rap isn’t quite the size of bowling ball sized rock but close.

 

[theduke]

I've built a 1/2 mile drive with 3/4 -.

I hate bigger rock as its a pita to grade...Box Blade or whatever will catch the tip of a big piece and bounce.

That said....Our ground is super hard so there was no need for a crazy pit run 4-6" base.

You can build a nice road with smaller rocks...it just takes more.

I grade it all with a 12' landplane and when the stars align and everything is perfect..its like glass.
UNTILL
The neighbors with the front wheel drive cars...f it up and wash board it in places.

If they'd power up on the flat and power down on the steeper spots it would last longer.

Driving should be simple.......some git it Non Road maintainers don't

 

[cparktd]

Follow up due to those who contributed to my question...
It went really well. I was nicely surprised at how easy it was to fill the bucket with 1-1/2" stone. But in my favor was the fact that I had a hard packed road base to load out on. Now I just need another 20 ton or so...
THANKS All