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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone,

I recently purchased a new to me JD X360 with the Edge Xtra 48" deck. It had 62 hours on it and I paid $2400 for it. It looks brand new top to bottom. It cuts our lawn just how we like it - short and smooth putting green quality with no scalping. Even in turns the grass is cut smooth. We were really shocked at how well it can cut short and smooth with no scalping. Its bad for the grass, but we do not cut it high or a even normal cut lenght, we like our grass cut short as in putting green short (our in ground pool attracts snakes).

We love the power steering/tilt wheel, hydraulic deck lift, serviceable transmission, etc. The 22hp Kaw V twin has more than enough power. Its also the quietest riding mower we have ever used. Its fast, has very easy steering and convenient controls and very maneuverable. The X360 provides the best putting green quality mowing we have ever experienced for our lawn. For us, its actually fun mowing the 1.5 acre lawn with it. Yes, we love it.

Yet, having said that, I am considering a low hour 1026R or 1025R to have an all in one. I love the look of the 1 series and really like the low ride height (I used tractors as a kid and owned a bigger Yanmar tractor). The latest style hood on the 1 series and all the latest JD tractors look mega nice. Infact, because of the hood design, I think my wife would think my tractor is sexy! LOL! I love the ideal of a low seat height, heavy, diesel powered, riding mower sized 4 wheel drive tractor, that can help me with all I need to do on my place.....and look good doing it. LOL!

We would prefer a 1026R or a 1025R as we want cruise for mowing. I have seen low hour 1026Rs and 1025Rs with the mower and frontend loader in the $11,000 to $12,000 range. I have also seen a new 1025R with a mower and frontend loader for $15,699 + tax until the end of January. Which route I would take really depends on the lowest monthly payment I could get with at least the mower and frontend loader.

Besides mowing we also need landscaping, concrete debris removal, brush hogging, fence building and tilling on our 20 acre place. I can pay rather cheaply for these services, but it would be less fun. LOL! However, I would not be able to keep both the X360 and the SCUT. A critical factor for us is the cutting quality of the SCUT.

I have read reviews and watched vids of SCUT mowing with mixed results. Some say they mow great and have the power to cut through anything. Some reviews state they mow good IF on the high setting only. Others say they mow just "ok". Yet, others state the mowing is of very low quality and or uneven in straight aways and turns and or leaves strips. Some users say the deck needs the front roller my X360 has. There are videos of how to install a front roller on the 1 series decks?? Some say the deck setup is to blame or not setting the anti-scalp wheels correctly or an unlevel deck. Yet, some have tried to re-adjust everything (and or had the dealership try) and the mowing quality is still low. While others state that it does not maneuver as well as a "sports car" like X series mower but more like a heavy truck. Some report that changing to turf tires will reduce tearing the lawn but will have less grip for the frontend loader.

As with anything, some will have a bad experience and report that they are all bad and some that have spent a lot of money may rationalize that its better than it actually is. I need to know the truth....without me actually test driving one. Haha....eh.

Can someone that has mowed with a JD X360 or similar JD (with roller on front of deck and 4 anti-scalp wheels) AND a 1025R/1026R tell me the truth about a comparison of short cutting abilities?

In a nutshell, I need to know if a 1025R or 1026R can cut a lawn SHORT and SMOOTH like a putting green with NO SCALPING, like my X360 does? Thanks for any insight.
 

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In a nutshell, I need to know if a 1025R or 1026R can cut a lawn SHORT and SMOOTH like a putting green with NO SCALPING, like my X360 does? Thanks for any insight.
In a nutshell. nope.
 
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I agree with fishbait. Cut quality on these SCUT's is terrible. That being said I like OP am very particular about my lawn. I cut with a Walker brand zero turn. Probably the best you can get.

Few problems with the 10series decks. Not deep enough deck so doesn't get good lift on grass blades/cuttings don't get mulched that good. Deck hangs from tractor and doesnt articulate that well. The best designs have the deck roll on the ground with four wheels or rollers and the tractor is pretty loosley attached. Deck is tricky to level properly. Material collection if you want that is expensive if you need that feature. Tho the aftermarket 3point ones with PTO drivven rear impeller suck leaves awsome.

Lot of compramises on this deck. The drive over feature tho conveniant adds complexity and space constraints. Its a jack of all trades machine but not nesecarily great for just one purpose. Its usually good enough as most people when it comes to lawns just are not that picky.

I recomend keeping what you got for mowing or plan on a 3 point finish mower for a 10series. Or best solution get a larger tractor and zero turn if/when funds are available.

Good luck!
 

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I agree with the comments. My 1023e cuts "fine" but my dedicated cub cadet mower is a MUCH better cut. I can almost promise you will get scalping with a 1 series mower on any uneven terrain or on turns when cutting as low as you do.
 

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One thing I really like about GTT is that we get to spend other people's money!!

That said, if you are free and clear on the 360, keep it, save a little more and ADD a 1 series to your fleet. That way your wife can mow the lawn while you're playing, I mean working, with the 1 series.

Sometimes I wish I hadn't gotten rid of my Craftsman tractor after I got the Deere. Would have been nice just for dragging a cart to move stuff when the Deere is set up for doing other things.
 

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I'll echo what everyone else has said.. the 1025R cuts okay. You might be able to spend a bunch of time and make modifications (such as adding a center anti-scalp wheel on the 54" deck), but it's not a dedicated mowing machine will never perform like one. There is a gentleman local to me who has two 2 series tractors (an older and a newer 2032R or 2038R) with loaders and mowers who's entire lawn is a golf course. I have no idea how he does it, but it always looks immaculate right down to the putting greens and I know he generally only mows with the tractors (with loaders still on). Maybe the issue falls into setup, or maybe the mowers on the 2 series are that much better.

With that said, the mowing deck on the 1025R costs about as much as that entire X360. As efficient as the diesel is when mowing and how much I personally hate having to take care of two motors vs one, I'd say if you're happy with the X360 cut keep it and maybe try to go to a 2 or 3 series tractor; especially with 20 acres and wanting to do a lot of bush hogging\tilling\loader work.
 

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With that said, the mowing deck on the 1025R costs about as much as that entire X360. As efficient as the diesel is when mowing and how much I personally hate having to take care of two motors vs one, I'd say if you're happy with the X360 cut keep it and maybe try to go to a 2 or 3 series tractor; especially with 20 acres and wanting to do a lot of bush hogging\tilling\loader work.
^^^^^^ That's good advice right there.

I skipped the deck when I bought my 2720 and instead got a dedicated riding mower. It was one of the best decisions I ever made. It mows WAY better than the big tractor could ever do. No ruts, no tire marks, etc. It's also nice not having to mess around with removing/installing the mower deck every time I want to do some dirt work. I also use the rider with a lawn cart most of the time for small chores around the yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you to everyone taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.

Its not what I wanted to hear but needed to know. I was hoping someone would say something like....my scut mows as good or almost as good as my JD X_______ riding mower or my scut mowed lawn looked like goats were let loose or a big rig semi truck had rolled over it until I did the front roller add on, then it mowed as good as my JD X____ riding mower. haha.....eh.
 

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Thank you to everyone taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.

Its not what I wanted to hear but needed to know. I was hoping someone would say something like....my scut mows as good or almost as good as my JD X_______ riding mower or my scut mowed lawn looked like goats were let loose or a big rig semi truck had rolled over it until I did the front roller add on, then it mowed as good as my JD X____ riding mower. haha.....eh.
To give you and idea of my opinion of the cut quality of the SCUT's, I don't even own a MMM for my machine and never will. I do use it for rear "brush hog" type mowing and everything else. I mow lawns with a professional Zero turn and would never go back to using anything else. The professional zero turns don't do too many different tasks, but they are exceptional at cutting grass when used properly, maintained correctly and not driven at the 13 mph they can mow........

On another of your topics / questions, I brush hog mow 10 acres with my 1025R. I have progressively "converted" 5 acres of the field into being able to be mowed by the zero turn and the remainder with my 1025r. It would not break my heart to have all of the 10 acres mowed with the zero turn, but I am specifically leaving uncut areas for wildlife habitat. If you have a large area you want to "brush hog cut", I would go bigger than the 1 series and keep the mower you have for the lawn if you are happy. If you want to speed the process up of mowing the lawn and having a really nice cut, there are alternatives, but in reality, there are always alternatives.

You will find more ways to use the Front end loader on another tractor that you will wonder how you ever got along without one. My number one used implement is my 3 point carry all, my second most used implement are the pallet forks for my FEL..........

While you might be tempted to consider machines in the "e" class (other than the 1023e) keep in mind they do not have Mid PTO options which means no front driven implements like snow blowers, rotary brooms, etc. While they are often attractive in price, for example you can buy a 3025e for not a great deal more than the 1025R, but it won't have the mid pto to drive front implements.

I have seen many of the "e" series machines for resale with very low hours on them and the most common reasons are the lack of the PTO and the D series of FEL which they come with that is not easy to take off and put on the machine. So don't be tempted to select a machine thinking "Oh, I will never need a Mid PTO" or "I don't plan on taking off the FEL" because this seems to be a common mistake some people make and live to regret it.......
 

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Thank you to everyone taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.

Its not what I wanted to hear but needed to know. I was hoping someone would say something like....my scut mows as good or almost as good as my JD X_______ riding mower or my scut mowed lawn looked like goats were let loose or a big rig semi truck had rolled over it until I did the front roller add on, then it mowed as good as my JD X____ riding mower. haha.....eh.
I mean, my 1025R mows just as nicely as my X390 and X730 mowed, but neither cut as nice as a Skag or Exmark zero turn so you're got to remember what some, or at least myself, are basing this off of. It just, at least my 60D, does not cut well below 3.25" height.

My main point was that for the money, you may be better served getting a little larger tractor and keeping the X360. Cruise control is nice, but unless you're got long, straight runs you probably won't use it much.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thats critical info I needed. Thanks for the detail. Yes, it seems the scut mower will mow fine IF you want a TALL lush lawn. We have too many copperhead snakes in summer for that. On the X360 we mow on the non numbered setting between the 2" and the 2.5" setting (assume it is the 2.25" setting).

Right now, only have room indoors for one or the other, not both. Use to have a Yanmar YM 2210 (25hp diesel) with a frontend loader, brush hog and finish mower. Kept it outside covered and chained. But, sold it when I was very ill for a few years and thought I would not be able to use a tractor again. Wrong, I recovered. I paid $3,500 for it with attachments. The owner had to sell it before his wife would let him get a new JD tractor (he hated the shuttle shift). haha! I sold it fast for $5,800.

I would never keep a JD tractor outside.....would attract thieves (had an old snapper riding mower left outside, stolen years ago, when too many people knew we were on vacation/out of state for a week).

Thought about everybodies experienced based comments. I am going to keep the X360 as a dedicated mower for our lawn. Its just too nice. I am in my late 40s. I should not need another lawn mower until my late 60s or beyond! haha......eh.

My original plan was to get a low hour JD 2 or 3 series after expanding the two car garage. A few years ago, our driveway concrete contractor let me use his new JD 3038e with a frontend loader and box blade for a few days while he completed our driveway (over 58 yards of concrete!). Really enjoyed operating it and loved the forward and reverse pedals (the turbo gave it an extra kick). I told myself I would not go back to a shuttle shift. I thought if the scut could mow low very well or if I could modify the deck to mow low well, I could get everything I need before adding on to the garage. Guess not.

I guess I will continue to pay $90 bucks to have 10 acres (of the 20) brush hogged and pay someone to level a huge pile of hard clay excavated for the pool and remove a huge pile of old brick and broken concrete. But, as soon as I add on to the garage, I will get another JD. Again, thanks for everyone taking the time to share your expertise.

........then again, if I trip over a good deal on a scut I might have to try to make room for two (2) JDs in the garage. haha......eh.

Note: I found the 2009 JD X360 with 62 hours on tractorhouse.com at a used farm equipment shop. They were asking more, but came down to $2,400 including tax. So I drove over 3 hours to it. It had been stored away for years by the original owner. I could tell from the dust that the meter and plug in had not been changed and the mower condition was like new. The shop had to take carb. apart and clean it of varnished gas and empty gas tank. I bought it because our little Poulan Pro 300ex deck is so worn out after mowing the lawn and about 2 acres of field for years. The Poulan was an emergency purchase when our older tank like Snapper front engine rider was stolen years ago. I may turn the Poulan into a dedicated brush mower of some kind.
 

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I meant to include this in the last post but was kind of in a hurry to get out and snowblow...

The only other thing I can suggest, as everyone's idea of "perfection" is different, is talk with your dealer about mowing low and see if they'll let you use a demo unit to mow - preferably on your property. If I had to guess, I'd say a good start would be to try the 54" deck, not the 60" deck but if they'll let you do both certainly go for it. Explain to them what you want to do in general (bush hog, mow, loader work, etc) , what you expect, and see if the machine can meet your expectations. I'd even see if they'd let you borrow a bush hog so you can see if that'll work out for you.

It's certainly a lot cheaper than buying everything and being disappointed, and you won't have to wonder if you made the right decision or not. I don't know where you're from but maybe you could even see if a member here lives close by and see if they would let you try out their equipment.
 
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Considering that I will have a dedicated JD lawn mower and considering what I need and like in a tractor as well as what I am willing to pay, I think a JD 2032R with low hours would work for me. The larger tires would be better in the field and more hp is always a good thing and the seat height is still relatively low (prefer lower center of gravity with everything). Can find low hour versions of the 2032R with a FEL and up to several more attachments in the $15,000 range. But not in my state. Tractor prices seem higher in Oklahoma. Infact, I bought both the Yanmar YM 2210 and the JD X360 in Texas. However, I could not get a 2017 or new model at that price. Newer models have the mega nice hood like all the 1 series have and I want! I need that hood!!!!!

img.jpeg
Notice the sweeping curve at bottom of hood and the light and grill design. Its even used on JD monster tractors. Nicest hood I have ever seen on a tractor. I want it .....no I need it! haha!...eh.

......then again, I just saw this....

3399-td3b.jpg
JD 2520. Low seat height yet, just look at that "voluptuous" rear tire and see how the rear fender follows the shape of the tire.....I may be in love. hehe!

But, the garage add-on must come before a 2 series sized tractor unless I move my wife's sports cars out of the garage......not going to happen unless I want to move outside as well. LOL! My vehicles already set outside. Thanks again.
 

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x758 vs 1025r Cut

I have both a x758 (54HC) and 1025r(60D). As far a cut quality they are about the same, however I mow at 4" and never any lower to avoid scalping. It's my yard and I have other reasons. Each unit has its pros.

The trick on both to get a good even cut it to set your gauge wheels to run about a 1/2" off the ground at cutting height and make sure your deck is level. Leveling the deck on the 1025r is real pia. On both machines I set my gauge wheels all the way down (last hole) for 4" cutting height.

x758s advantage over the 1025r is the AWD on hills and it is easier to maneuver with a lower center of gravity. The 1025r mechanical 4wd has a wider turning radius and on hills in 2wd it spins out. Maybe if I had hdap tires on the 1025 it would do better in 2wd.

What the 1025R has is a higher RPM deck which cuts stuff up and blows it out better. I don't seem to have near the clippings on top of the deck as the x758 or my old 425 and x495. The 1025R also has a noticeably higher ground speed.

My conclusion is if you have flat yard, and I do mean flat and you cut at 3.5 to 4", you will be happy with the 1025 cut quality.
 

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I used to mow with an x320. I think the 1025R cuts equally well. I have the 54D and do not have any scalping issues.
 

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It sounds like you've pretty much made up your mind & I can't compare cut quality to your current mower, but I'll throw in my $0.02.

I have a really rough & hilly yard & I think my 1025R with 60D deck does a great job of mowing, but I mow pretty high & I'm not looking for anything anywhere close to resembling putting green quality. After reading many threads on here before purchasing the tractor I was really impressed & pleasantly surprised by how well it cut. It has only scalped a couple of places when topping steep ditches/hills going up. One of the ditches this happened at was so steep that the ends of the lower 3 point arms actually dug into the back side of the ditch as I started up from the bottom. I usually just pull up to the crest of the hill & then slowly back back down into the ditch when mowing that spot, but I decided to try going on up & over that time after I realized the 3 point was digging in.

I went from the older 316 & 318 garden tractors with 46" & 50" decks, & I think the 1025R does just as good of a job mowing as they do. I used to scalp more places with those tractors until I started mowing a little higher a few years back so it's entirely possible that the 1025R would scalp if I ran it that low as well, but as I said I have a rough yard. The only big difference I've noticed is that there's just more of a "pucker factor" trying to mow some of my ditches & there are a couple of steep places I won't mow sideways that I used to with the smaller garden tractors. One of those places is so steep that no one in the family but me has ever tried to mow it sideways & I almost rolled one of the smaller garden tractors on it once. I've seen in other threads where people have said that the larger decks seem to sag or hang at an angle & cut unevenly when mowing sideways on a hill or ditch, but I have not noticed any issues with that in my ditches.

FWIW, I agree with the earlier post that if at all possible you should try to get a tractor to demo or possibly rent for a day or so to see for yourself if it can & will meet your expectations.
 
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It sounds like your leaning this way anyway, but i would keep your current mower, and then save up and get a bigger tractor for the other work. For 20 acres, a 1 series is not ideal. We have 25 acres and we started out with a 1 series leftover from our old home that was only 2.5 acres. We upgraded to a 3E series. I would highly recommend the 3E. If you like the newer design, look at the 2018 and newer models. They changed the hood design from the square body to similar to the R series body style. If you want to do loader work and 3 point work, the 3E would be great for 20 acres.
 

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We have too many copperhead snakes in summer for that.
I was going to describe my 1026r / 60D mower experience. But this totally changes my mind. Instead, I suggest this...

 

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I was going to describe my 1026r / 60D mower experience. But this totally changes my mind. Instead, I suggest this...

:rocket::lol::bigthumb: Honestly, my first thought when I read that sentence was that I'd fix that problem by moving:bye2:, but figured it would probably be more constructive to just offer my opinion on mowing with the tractor.
 
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