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Just starting out as a newbie owner of an OLD JD 445.

I have a copy of a manual that covers NEWER 445 machines and see there is a handy little pop off clip to aid in easy removal of the PTO when removing the deck. My old 445 appears to only have a 3/8" bolt on the spline to loosen and then having to pry off the spline to pull the shaft from the deck's gearbox.

Should I consider buying up to a newer 445 because of this? It sure makes me feel like this is an overly BIG job to change or sharpen blades or just for maintenance of the deck bearings!
 

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I have a1994 445 I purchased new and the deck shaft has a collar you pull on to remove the mower PTO shaft from the tractor Mid PTO. You pull this collar towards the front of the tractor and then slide the shaft forward to remove it. This year was the first time I have ever removed the shaft from the mower gear box and I did this when I removed the gear box from the deck to replace some broken bracket bolts and clean up that area of the deck. I believe 1993 was the first year for the 4x5 series so I have an older model.
 

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hmm. Wish I had gotten this post a bit earlier. . . I went nuts on this thing and removed the 3/8" keyed shaft bolt and in the process pushed in the gearbox seal. It now LEAKS. Great. Well, if I can find that collar you refer to I can put on the keyed shaft 1st and then RE-install the shaft onto the hydraulic output much easier. I will place an image of the shaft and point to what I figure you say is the "collar" in hopes of easing the re-install.

Maybe someone here knows the best place to source a new seal for this gearbox made in. . . SPAIN!
 

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I’ve learned post on this site before I cut, grind, hammer, press, drill, bend or otherwise mutilate anything with green paint😂
 

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here are two images. . . the 1st with the Univ. joint laying on the floor is the one I figure must have the collar-- the long tube slides along the square PTO shaft. With the dang deck cocked against wheels on the floor trying to pull it off(collar) it seemed like it would go no further. So, I figured the only way is to remove the keyed shaft(other end of this piece) from the gearbox. 2nd image. . . I just can't "see" anything resembling a "collar" near the U-joint. Does this setup look JUST like yours Sundancer?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a1994 445 I purchased new and the deck shaft has a collar you pull on to remove the mower PTO shaft from the tractor Mid PTO. You pull this collar towards the front of the tractor . . . for the 4x5 series so I have an older model.
2nd image here:
 

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The collar is just to the right of the U-Joint in the picture. You move it towards the U-Joint and then slide the shaft off the tractor mid PTO Shaft. Color might need to be sprayed with a penetrating oil if it won't move. When you get it off, clean it up and lubricate it so it moves freely. I clean and grease mine at the beginning of every mowing season. Collar is spring loaded so you will have to compress the springs and hold the collor back when installing to the tractor unless you have one of the locking collar type of shafts. I have both types on the three mower decks I have for my 445. I just purchased another 54" deck to go with my original and the 48" deck I have as spares.
 
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As for the Oil Seal, take the old one to the nearest auto parts store and they should be able to match it, guarantee the gear box manufacturer bought an off the shelf seal.
 
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+ 1 for penetrating oil and lubrication...

I can't vouch that my 425 and your 445 are identical, but I can say that I had my deck off and sitting outside while I worked on the tractor in the garage for a couple weeks. The deck got rained on ONCE and it was only a quarter inch or less. That's the only rain the deck has seen in the 5 seasons I've had it, and I doubt the previous owner had it parked outside for any noteworthy amount of time.

When I went to remount the deck, I could NOT get the collar to slide on. I had put the deck on and off a dozen times this spring with no issues.
Eventually gave it a hefty dose of lubricating oil spray...still no luck.
Went inside and showered, ate supper, etc.
Came outside and it slipped on the splines and it snapped/locked into place with less than 30 seconds of wiggling and jiggling, just like it had done all spring.
I figure the lube oil just needed a little while to soak in to the ball bearings and springs that make the collar spring loaded.

And mine doesn't have any surface rust like yours appears to in the pics.

--David

Oh, I also had a TERRIBLE time the first time I ever tried to remove the deck... once I figured out the "trick" to it, it was easy, but until you get it the first time, "heaven help you" as they say.
 

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The 425, 445 & 455 all take the same decks, 48”, 54” & 60”. 48” & 54” share a lot of common parts, 60” is unique with few if any parts in common.
 

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My X485 never had the deck removed and I had a hell of a time getting it off. After I got the collar free, the small balls where rusted tight. I soaked it for a couple days and then took a ply bar to it. You are prying against the aluminum case and you need to be very careful. Rotate and jiggle the pry bar. Rotate and repeat. Eventually it started to wiggle loose. By the time I got it off, it was apparent it was toasted. Mother Deere hit me $90.00 for the rebuild kit. This whole process will be easier for you since you have the deck out of the way.

I always put a touch of grease on the balls and spline when I reinstall.

Good luck!
 
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This PTO collar design is very common on many PTO shafts which Deere uses, In fact, my 1996 455 and the PTO shaft on my 1025r Frontier rear "brush hog" or 3 point mower, use the very same slide collar locking device on the PTO shafts connection points. Maintained properly, its a great system and works well for decades.

One thing about this style of locking collar, you need to always install the PTO shaft and then to make sure it is properly locked on, slide the shaft towards the tractor as far as you can and then, give the shaft a solid tug trying to remove it. When the sliding collar is working and properly installed, it's locked on the shaft. When the collar doesn't lock, the shaft will come right back off the machine, which is what you want to avoid at all costs.......

It's very important to always grease the splines, specifically, the tip of the PTO shaft on the tractor before installing any PTO shaft, whether its the MMM PTO shaft, the extension shaft which gets the mid PTO power forward for the snow blower or broom or even on the rear of the tractor, for 3 point hitch mounted implements and their PTO shafts.

And as Randog commented, the balls inside the sliding collar need to be kept greased, which they will be, if you grease the splined tip of the PTO shafts when installing any implement. Sometimes, the grease can get "dirty" in the collar which can cause the collar to only partially slide or only a portion of the collar to move. Cleaning the ball bearings in the collar with a spray cleaner and then lubricating them with a product like this, works well to keep it functioning.



Either of these products work very well on the inside of the PTO shaft collars. Most important, they do NOT attract dirt nor do they get "gunked up" like regular grease can and does.

I also use these products on my over head garage door rollers, chain and all of the door pivots for the same reason. They won't attract dirt or have junk accumulated on the pivot surfaces and they do an excellent job lubricating. Pick up a can of these products and give the PTO collars a blast when you are removing them or installing them and they will work for a very long time...............

I still use a dab of regular grease gun grease on the tip of the splined shaft as it makes getting the shaft lined up and installed so much easier. Every time I have ever struggled to install the PTO shaft on anything, its because the splines were dry. As the old commercial used to say , "A dab will do ya" (even though that was for a hair product if I recall correctly....)
 
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I always put a touch of grease on the balls and spline when I reinstall.

Good luck!
Such good advice in a number of applications................ :LOL: ;)
 
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Just starting out as a newbie owner of an OLD JD 445.

I have a copy of a manual that covers NEWER 445 machines and see there is a handy little pop off clip to aid in easy removal of the PTO when removing the deck. My old 445 appears to only have a 3/8" bolt on the spline to loosen and then having to pry off the spline to pull the shaft from the deck's gearbox.

Should I consider buying up to a newer 445 because of this? It sure makes me feel like this is an overly BIG job to change or sharpen blades or just for maintenance of the deck bearings!

As a newbie, you also might want to consider leaving the mower deck on when you change blades. Either run the front wheels of the tractor up onto a set of the metal automotive service ramps and remove the blades using an impact gun or jack up the tractor and put it on jack stands, front and rear to raise the entire tractor to remove the blades.

Now, I pick up the 455 and my neighbors x738 and my zero turn commercial mower with my 1025r and it's FEL to change mower blades. It's so much faster than removing the deck. It does require you to lay on the ground to remove the blades, etc. but that's made easier by laying on a set of those cheap floor pads sold by Harbor Freight, like these....


Just make sure anytime you lift any machine, whether its by jacking it up with a floor jack, both front and or rear of the machine, using the ramps to drive the machine up upon or lifting it with another machine, ALWAYS use safety Jack Stands under the machine's frame to support it before getting under it or working on it.

I even back my garden tractor's up on the floor ramps and then use a floor jack to jack up the front of the tractor, so the entire machine is safely lifted. There are numerous ways to get machine up in the air so its easy to access the under side of the deck, just make sure to safely support the machine before you work under it.


 
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My X485 never had the deck removed and I had a hell of a time getting it off. After I got the collar free, the small balls where rusted tight. I soaked it for a couple days and then took a ply bar to it. You are prying against the aluminum case and you need to be very careful. Rotate and jiggle the pry bar. Rotate and repeat. Eventually it started to wiggle loose. By the time I got it off, it was apparent it was toasted. Mother Deere hit me $90.00 for the rebuild kit. This whole process will be easier for you since you have the deck out of the way.

I always put a touch of grease on the balls and spline when I reinstall.

Good luck!
Your comments about your X485 reminded me of how I finally figured out how to improve the odds of winning the wrestling match with the drive shaft. I take the time to remove the RH wheel. With the wheel out of the way, you can see what you're doing, and have much better access.
 
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I find it easier to get to remove and install the deck pto shaft from the rear of the tractor.

If the deck is adjusted so it just contacts the frame at full lift height (described in deck manual) it is easier for me to change the blades without lifting the tractor or removing the deck. Occasionally I take a wire wheel to the threads on the deck bolts to keep them very clean and put a small amount of oil on the threads. I get to the bolt for the middle blade from the right side of the tractor and use a 2"x4" about 6" long set vertically to block the blade at the front of the deck so it does not turn so that I can remove the bolt with a long box end wrench with one hand as it is virtually impossible to use 2 hands on that blade. Once I break the bolts loose I take them the rest of the way out with my fingers thanks to clean threads and lube. I usually do one blade at a time so the bolt goes back in the same spindle it came from. Reinstalling the bolts is by fingers except the last 1/2 turn or so for which I use the wrench. I use the block of 2"x4" for reinstalling the middle blade. For the outer blades I hold one end of the blade with one hand and tighten the bolt with the other hand. Whether it works for you may depend on your mobility.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As for the Oil Seal, take the old one to the nearest auto parts store and they should be able to match it, guarantee the gear box manufacturer bought an off the shelf seal.
[/QUOTE]

The collar is just to the right of the U-Joint in the picture. You move it . . . .
Addressing both the oil seal and the PTO Joint collar:

-- It took about 2 seconds to pull on what you described as the collar and I had the entire shaft in my hands! It could have been Soooooooo EASY! No wrenching on the spline bolt at the gearbox or pushing in the seal etc etc. :sneaky: . . . note image of my PTO shaft and newly, gold painted collar.
753927


maybe I won't even forget it exists!

-- I ordered a new seal for $25 on line from JD website to be picked up at the local store--15 miles. They did not have it in stock so they are getting one from another JD dealer. . . when?! who knows. However, the old seal was just pushed in past its mount location. I drilled a hole in each side of its body and used Allen wrenches to pull it straight out. Filled the holes back in with Rain Gutter adhesive, looks pretty good. Seal surfaces look perfect.

If they don't get it tomorrow I may call and see if they will allow me to cancel and just use my "farm-fix" seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I find it easier to get to remove and install the deck pto shaft from the rear of the tractor.

If the deck is adjusted so it just contacts the frame at full lift height (described in deck manual) it is easier for me to change the blades without lifting the tractor or removing the deck.
Yes, I will likely plan to change them ON the tractor. I have a track loader and have had occasion to pick up the 445 on the front end to remove a tarp my wife snagged in all 3 blades-- fun. Using my pneumatic, lug wrench zipping off those 3 nuts is a one handed, 2 second operation. Yesterday I scraped all the debris and rust from the underside of the deck, neutralized it with Loctite Rust neutralizer, and primed it with cold galvanizing compound. So, no reason in the near future to remove it for cleaning. After I clean up the top side / belt covers and grease zests etc it will be good for a while.
 
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