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Discussion Starter #21
OK, new problem: Replaced the seal with a new one and . . . it leaks. I pressed it in till flush with the gearbox case all around. leaking appears on INNER shaft seal mostly, not the outer case seal. Suspecting this:
-- I failed to measure the distance the wear ring measures from front face of case and it is probably resting only partially on it, so, maybe not sealing because it is on a rougher, non-burnished shaft. . .

Question: are there specs on the physical location of such a seal for distance seal face is meant to be back from case face? Would JD dealer even know?
Should I just keep pushing it in bit by bit until it happens on the wear face?

Final solution from my viewpoint is remove and buy a new one, this time taking more measurements!
 

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OK, new problem: Replaced the seal with a new one and . . . it leaks. I pressed it in till flush with the gearbox case all around. leaking appears on INNER shaft seal mostly, not the outer case seal. Suspecting this:
-- I failed to measure the distance the wear ring measures from front face of case and it is probably resting only partially on it, so, maybe not sealing because it is on a rougher, non-burnished shaft. . .

Question: are there specs on the physical location of such a seal for distance seal face is meant to be back from case face? Would JD dealer even know?
Should I just keep pushing it in bit by bit until it happens on the wear face?

Final solution from my viewpoint is remove and buy a new one, this time taking more measurements!
I would say the new seal isn't seated deep enough yet. It's hard to get the seal back out without wrecking it, so pushing it in further until it is past the level with outer edge would be what I would try. If it leaks still, then order the new one........

DId you compare the I.D. of the seal with the one removed before installing it?
 
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Did you check the number stamped on the old seal and compare it to the new seal, with that number you should be able to cross reference it to any number of cheaper seals, I have never paid more than $10-$15 for a seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I would say the new seal isn't seated deep enough yet. . . . If it leaks still, then order the new one........

DId you compare the I.D. of the seal with the one removed before installing it?
Well, it is the same seal, same markings on it as original and it slid on smoothly. . .

However, I tapped it in a bit more until the seal face came up even to an internal bevel on the gear case input port. It looks really good . . .
IMG_0497.jpeg


but leaks still, maybe worse. My new plan:
-- leave it alone, it seals at the outer rim and will only leak at the shaft. It will leak out until the level drops below a certain level.
-- Run the deck and use it. Let it wear in a new wear ring on the shaft. Re-filll with oil the next few times I use it and hope it makes a new wear line to seal better.
-- If I can't get it to "level" out in oil loss or oil retention, buy a new seal and do the job with more care next time.

I know there are folks that rebuild these decks. It would be good to talk to someone like that who has been around the block!
Other ideas?
 

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You need to get some burnishing cloth. It is a very fine sandpaper. Inspect the entire shaft for ding's and damage. Use a mill file if necessary. Then use the burnishing cloth on the entire shaft down to the seal wearing surface and slightly beyond. Once the entire shaft is baby ass smooth, coat the shaft with Vasoline or grease and carefully slip the new seal on. When tapping the new seal in, make sure you are on the outer edges and applying even pressure to avoid bending or distorting the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
OK, well you will all get a kick out of this one: I just HAPPENED to notice that the part I ordered has a different number than the one I was handed. I was looking this morning at the invoice and noticed the last digit seemed "off". It was. They gave me the output shaft seal instead of the one I ordered-- input seal.

If it was the right seal I am "pretty" sure it would have worked after the prep and care I gave it, much like Randog offers. However, I did not take the time to locate the wear ring location back from the case face. I used a rotary wire brush on my drill, ScotchBrite, cleaned it all up and lubed with gear lube, Install very carefully, 1st flush with the case, finally used a large socket and tapped it another 1/8" flush with an inside bevel. I am just guessing, but believe the shaft was clean and so close in diameter within a few thousandths that it should have sealed, if correct. (famous last words)

So, now I will be waiting on a drop shipment from mother Deere.

UNREAL. How hard can this get to [email protected]#
 

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Yes, the correct part does make the job easier. LOL

Many times we don't know the ability of the guy doing the repairs. Easier to get over detailed than have someone wreck the stuff.

ScotchBrite works great but you need to clean up the dust very well when your done. A lot of cutting power in that dust.

You'll be fine with the correct seal. Hopefully they will cover the cost since they gave you the wrong one.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
yep, sometimes I AM "fly by the seat of the pants". . .! It actually had the same markings on the seal itself but I failed to read off each digit on the packaging. . . at first.

After removing the "wrong" seal I used 500 grit Wet or Dry and it mostly shines. There is a thin line less than 10 thousands thick all around the circumference but it is so small it is unlikely to cause any serious leakage, certainly with the correct diameter. . . this should seal just fine. They will drop ship the new one for free to my home but still want me to return the other one to the store.
 
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