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I have a 1025r that I bought brand new 2 years ago. This is the third mowing season, plow snow and move sheep manure. Just hit 50 hrs, I read tons of articles about oil change at 50 hrs most say 200 heck that will take me another 6 years. What should I do? Some say change oil but put break in oil back in? Looking for your input. Thanks
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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I have a 1025r that I bought brand new 2 years ago. This is the third mowing season, plow snow and move sheep manure. Just hit 50 hrs, I read tons of articles about oil change at 50 hrs most say 200 heck that will take me another 6 years. What should I do? Some say change oil but put break in oil back in? Looking for your input. Thanks
Engine Oil change should be annually at a min. - I'd change that with the JD spec oil for the engine and if you're feeling like spending $100 on hydraulic oil and filters, it's not going to hurt to change it but it's unlikely to need it (assuming it's not contaminated, which is doubtful). Many people do it at 50hrs to get the small wear-in metals out, but the filter will capture the "fines" and the suction screen should keep the not so "fines" in the sump. I did my first hydraulic oil change at 199hrs and it was uneventful, but engine oil has been changed annually, I've got a 2017.
 

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Engine Oil change should be annually at a min. - I'd change that with the JD spec oil for the engine and if you're feeling like spending $100 on hydraulic oil and filters, it's not going to hurt to change it but it's unlikely to need it (assuming it's not contaminated, which is doubtful). Many people do it at 50hrs to get the small wear-in metals out, but the filter will capture the "fines" and the suction screen should keep the not so "fines" in the sump. I did my first hydraulic oil change at 199hrs and it was uneventful, but engine oil has been changed annually, I've got a 2017.
Thanks!
 

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I changed my 1026R at four years and 167 hours, oil analysts said it was still good for another 100 hours. I now change at the recommended 200 hours on both my tractors. I am long out of warranty so I can do what I want. Still change the transmission at the 200 hour mark on both my tractors. Oil analyst will tell you what is going on inside the engine. Still cheaper to change the oil than the analysis $34.00 for the last test, but in the long term saves the annual change which is getting more and more expensive. I do an annual oil analysis on my motor home but it holds 17.4 quarts of oil.
 

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I change my engine oil every fall no matter what and both fuel filters and I check my air filters. Hydro oil every 2 years and filter.
 

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change the engine oil and filter, along with the fuel filter and seperator filter, then change everything else at 200 hrs
 
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They tell me to pay taxes every year also…I’d probably change fuel filters every year.No point wasting perfectly good oil
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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The Owners Manual Service Schedule shows the hour intervals OR Annual changes.....Two year old motor oil in a machine which sits idle 99.89% of the time should be changed in my opinion.

Also make CERTAIN to be treating your diesel fuel because if you are putting 25 hours a year on your tractor, you are burning about 2 gallons of fuel per month on average. Probably more during snow removal and much less during fall and spring.

Accordingly, the fuel stays in the tank a long time so make sure to treat it year around with a very high quality product such as Hot Shot or Howe's, etc. There are others, but NEVER a product which says "Use in gasoline or Diesel Engines" as there are no high quality products which treats two such different fuels.

Keep your diesel tank topped off as well, to reduce its tendency to accumulate moisture. If you use these products in your fuel, purchase fuel from a high volume, reliable diesel fuel dealer and you should have few problems...........
 

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The Owners Manual Service Schedule shows the hour intervals OR Annual changes.....Two year old motor oil in a machine which sits idle 99.89% of the time should be changed in my opinion
What about the time it sat for millennia underground? The oil isn’t going to simply lose its elasticity from non use I would think but I’m no lubricant engineers
 

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What about the time it sat for millennia underground? The oil isn’t going to simply lose its elasticity from non use I would think but I’m no lubricant engineers

I am no lubricant engineer either, but know a bit about it. And the oil's elasticity isnt a quality that we are worried about. The lubricity and film strength are primary jobs for the oil.

The oil/gasoline/diesel/fertilizer that we extract from 'crude oil' is a highly refined product. I imagine you would not use the same reasoning and keep gasoline in a can for 3 years before using it...

The motor oil has additives that degrade after it has been exposed to oxygen, and even more so with the engine by-products after being used in a motor. Possibly even MORE so when used intermittently and over a long period.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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What about the time it sat for millennia underground? The oil isn’t going to simply lose its elasticity from non use I would think but I’m no lubricant engineers
The oil wasn't lubricating close tolerance engine components while it sat in its unrefined state underground for millennia.

Fluids attract moisture. Moisture degrades the fluids quality. Plus this machine is a couple of years old and has the original oil which has been in the machine while the break in was occuring. As far as the OP's question about replacing the motor oil with "break in oil", that's not required or even suggested.

There are rare cases of long time inactive hydro fluid now growing mold because of the moisture it attracts and the composition of the fluid having components which can allow the mold to grow. What a mess that is, for old fluid to become moldy.

I am not saying motor oil can grow mold, but it can attract moisture sitting in the engine which impacts the oil and the internal components in other ways. We have all seen motor oil or gear oil which when it gets enough moisture, turns milky.

Frankly, if one owns a RC2048 rear 3ph Frontier Rough cut Mower, they likely need to look no further than the mower gear case right now............This has come up numerous times on GTT.

For the little it costs and the fact that its the original oil so it has the initial wear debris within the fluid and filter from the engine breaking in, it seems prudent to change it to me. Plus, Deere's service schedule on maintenance provides for hours or years as a basis to change fluids and perform selective other service.

You don't need to change air cleaner elements on an engine which has had little use in a year or even two, but fluid changes such as motor oil, hydro fluid and coolant in a machine which is several years old is good maintenance. Also, since diesel fuel is well known to attract moisture and the fuel filters are the front line of defense in protecting the machine, the fuel filters should certainly be replaced based upon the time which has elapsed.

But each owner can do what they feel is best.................Preventative maintenance costs some time and money. It's also a chance to check over other items on the machine. If its been a couple of years and no maintenance has been done, its time to seriously consider it.
 

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They tell me to pay taxes every year also…I’d probably change fuel filters every year.No point wasting perfectly good oil
You can use it on your trailer decking!
But seriously, I would change the oil annually. It doesn’t cost much even with JD filter and Rotella T6 oil.
There isn’t some special “break-in” oil in new tractors. The engines are test ran when assembled and pretty much ready to go at that point.
 

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For the record I’m not AGAINST changing the oil more often than not. Just discussing if it actually breaks down over time or not when lightly used. It’s seems you guys are enlightening me. Thank you. I will look into this.
 
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Do what JD recommends while it is under warranty. I would do the hydraulic oil change sooner than later as my machine along with others had lots of metal chips on the pickup screen.

In the past I have been changing engine oil in all my Equipment at least once a year, regardless of hours or miles. I’m thinking I may start going by miles or hours, at least on machines that are out of warranty. There’s been folks on u tube, that send oil in to be tested after the oil was over a year old and the oil tested fine. I have seen enough test results to get me questioning If I need to change oil as often as I do. Oil is cheaper than ruining a engine . But , I do know of a few people that go a lot longer than I do on oil changes without issues.

I used to always change the oil in my trucks at 5k as it was easy to keep track of when to do it. Now that my pickups have oil change indicators I’m slowly changing my ways and going by that. I still will put fresh oil in for a long trip, just so I don’t have to worry about getting oil changed on a trip out of town.
 

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New 4044R cab, MX6 Cutter, 440 FEL, Aftermarket mirrors
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Our bigger tractors used in the hayfields and such get engine/hydraulic oil and filter change every spring
 

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For the record I’m not AGAINST changing the oil more often than not. Just discussing if it actually breaks down over time or not when lightly used. It’s seems you guys are enlightening me. Thank you. I will look into this.
So I did a small look see on oil breaking down and found a couple tidbits

Font Art Circle Number Paper product
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Font Terrestrial plant Number Screenshot Document

This is all from short Google searches from whatever sites I clicked on so take it as you read it
 

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If you want to find more than you ever wanted to know about oil, visit bobistheoilguy and do lots of reading, including the forums. Those folks live and breathe oil.
 
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Good deal I already figured on charging the oil this weekend. U guys think I should do the hydro as well?
I’m not sure what Deere is currently recommending with the newer tractors. I along with members of this form had quite a bit of metal chips on the pickup screen . I think I did mine at 100 hours. There should be a couple of threads and pictures of this on here .
 
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Good deal I already figured on charging the oil this weekend. U guys think I should do the hydro as well?
At 60 hrs I did my hydraulics, but not the oil. There was an impressive amount of filings on the filter
 
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