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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Here's a few screen shots on one leg of power feeding the MrCool AC unit. Got it set to 72F right now.

Hourly, over two days. It idles most of the night and morning. Starts to crank up around 3pm, then down around 7pm. The concrete floor provides a massive heat sink I think.

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Close up of night time cycling.

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This is all to get a baseline of the usage behavior. Once I get a good feel, then we can get fancy with setbacks at night and such.

Overall, quite pleased with the MrCool. Much less daily power consumption than the 12K BTU wall AC unit in the door. Install was pretty easy aside from wrestling with 3-1/2 inch hole through almost 3 inches of wood layers. Wrapping the line set was a pain, I'd recommend doing the placement and most wrapping BEFORE the outside unit is set on the brackets. Once set, there is limited clearance to the line set for wrapping and you have to play contortionist. And the rubber feet for the wall bracket are next to useless, got some real vibration isolation mounts ordered from McMaster-Carr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Finally got the vise mounted. The floor support has a 1/4 inch rubber pad between it and the floor. A little shock absorber. And if the support starts to move around, it will get bolted to the floor. Might have to slide the rails that run along the front edge forward about an inch to capture the rear bolts. I wanted the vise near the edge and the rear bolts just missed the rails. Will see after some use (or abuse).

Note new toy (tool), Dewalt cordless angle grinder. My Makita (corded) is a 3-1/2 and 4-1/2 things are easier to get.

802012


And with this pict, final wall sheeting along the door hinges, I declare the shop functionally complete and time to move on to some actual projects. Little tweaks here and there but get out the done stamp and move on.

802013


Things I've learned.

1) Insulated the roof/ceiling first, it has the best return/effort in getting the inside temps under control.

2) MrCool mini-split is the cats meow. Very nice setup. Wrapping the line set is a pain, do that before final mounting of the outside unit. Also, take the useless rubber mounts that come with the wall mount and toss them in the trash. Real vibration mounts work much, much better. I was hearing a low frequency rumble when the outside unit was running and that vanished using real vibration mounts.

3) Beware that a concrete floor leads to power and walls/doors/etc. :) This whole project started with, gee, a concrete floor would be real nice to have.
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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So... do you ever leave the shop now? :unsure: :LOL:
 
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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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@sdavilla. - Sad to see the done stamp for selfish reasons - It's been a lot of fun following along on this journey! Congrats on the DONE STAMP!!! May your new space not need to be expanded for many weeks 😛😁!! Job well done!
 

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Also, take the useless rubber mounts that come with the wall mount and toss them in the trash. Real vibration mounts work much, much better. I was hearing a low frequency rumble when the outside unit was running and that vanished using real vibration mounts.
Please advise the anti-vibe mounts you selected. I have a similar rumble issue with the 40k btu Carrier unit hung on the wall of our house. In our case the installer added a couple rods at the top to keep the unit from tilting away from the wall. I'm considering to add a small concrete pad and a steel frame with real antivibe mounts.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Please advise the anti-vibe mounts you selected. I have a similar rumble issue with the 40k btu Carrier unit hung on the wall of our house. In our case the installer added a couple rods at the top to keep the unit from tilting away from the wall. I'm considering to add a small concrete pad and a steel frame with real antivibe mounts.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
McMaster-Carr

Vibration-Damping Sandwich Mount with Stud
Neoprene, 5/16"-18 x 5/8" Thread Length, 110 lbs. Capacity

There are several flavors and styles, the above is 3/4 inch in height which worked perfectly.

So... do you ever leave the shop now? :unsure: :LOL:
That's the plan. :) In reality, I get about two hours before real work starts, then about three hours after work. Not retired, yet. lol.

What's really nice is I can find things now. Looking for a left-handed wire poker, 2nd tool box, third drawer... Ahh, there it is. So nice that everything is finding a home now.

Now to find that elusive female-female keystone jack and I can straighten out the cabling from surge protector to the wifi router. I know I have two, somewhere. Need to check my office at work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Could not resist. First arc since 1978. 0.30 flux core. Had a little problem at first, the steel plate had a thick oxide coating (aka, lots of rust) which prevented a nice electrical contact. Had the wire feed turned down to troubleshoot and realized, D'uh, need to take the angle grinder and make a clean surface for ground and weld area. After that, it arc'ed right up.

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Auto-darkening welding helmet is the real cats meow. Now to lay a bead.

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Little lumpy at the start, then instincts took over. Need little more voltage and higher feed but not bad after 43 years of no welding. I swear, MIG wire core is so easy compared to pure stick back in the days. The arc starts so nicely and the auto-darkening welding helmet is icing on the cake. This is going to be fun.

Electrical power draw during the above pass. I don't have taps on the 50A breaker so this is from the taps on the main feed to the panel. The idle draw is mostly the eight dual LED shop lights and ceiling fans.

802358
 

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Grind that rusty mess off first SD ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
After a little diddling around with voltage and wire speed, Hey, lets stick two pieces of metal together. Hint, flapper disc does not work well for cleaning this amount of rust, need to change to a grinder disc.

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The beads with bad porosity were from too slow wire speed for the voltage I was pushing. Wandering was a "I can't see where I'm going" problem.. LOL. The joys of old eyes.

Other side.

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Passed the "beat on it with the small sledge hammer" test. Did not budge, I'd have to apply more persuasion. I think I'll cut it in half to check the penetration. Also need to slightly decrease the auto-darkening on the welding helmet to see a little better. Switch from progressives to bifocals too. They have better close focus than the progressives.

Not happy with gloves, hard to control the trigger, can't feel it very well. Next time I hit HomeDepot, will check out the work glove section for something better. Maybe large glove on left, lighter on right. Have to see. Straps on welding apron are being silly, nice leather apron (smells great too), good coverage, poor strap implementation and it needs a few inside top pockets. I like a long apron over jacket, keeps the splatter from burning holes in my pants. will see how much UV my arms get... :) Maybe a crop top leather jacket if my arms get too red.

Welder settings. Plate is about 1/2 inch, welded piece is about 1/4 inch. Flapper disc worked well on cleaning the painted area on the welded piece. So flapper on painted, grinder on rusted. Sounds like a plan.

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And this was power usage during the welding. 1st few blips were the tacks. Pulling 30+ amps on each phase during the two longer passes. Glad I went with a 50A 240v circuit for welder. I would have popped a 30A circuit easy.


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Until I get a real welding table, no leaving shop until an hour or so after welding. Just in case some sneaky welding splatter lands on something flammable...
 

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That’s fantastic, mate! But a little sad to see the end of this thread.
Hmmm… not bad attempt on rusty steel, can’t wait to see it on some nice, clean 2" OD x 1-1/4" ID DOM and 1/2” plate…
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
Well TIG just kicked my rear down the drive and up the street. Whoever said TIG was like gas welding is a moron... Oh wait, that was me. LOL. The foot pedal control is driving me nuts, on/off and current control. The current control is the issue and I was not chewing gum either. I think I spent more time grinding an angle on the tungsten rod after burning the tip off than welding.

Wood Gas Machine Automotive exterior Cooking


Such a brain disconnect right now, I'm sure with practice (yea, lots of practice), I'll get better but for now, back to MIG, with C25 gas now.

Note to self, gas MIG works much better if you get the electrode polarity correct... :) I spend a few hours "trying" to gas MIG and it was fighting me, kept roasting the wire and making little puddles. Went to quit for the day, shutoff gas, turn off welder and happen to look at electrode polarity and thought, humm, something is wrong with this picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Bracket for dual gas cylinder came in. Almost 24 inches wide, I need 20. So off goes a bit from the ends, leaving plenty of meat left for structure and mounting to the welding cart. The bandsaw makes cutting it a trivial job. The four larger holes will get extended through lower edge for TIG rod storage. Sticker on bracket said, do not modify without their permission... Bah, not a chance. :)

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design
 
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