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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone made a sidelink level indicator for their hydraulic side link? I'm thinking it would be every bit as useful as a bucket level indicator and I'd rather not reinvent the wheel if there's a known successful design to work from.

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I installed one of these stick-on bubble levels on the top of my Quick Hitch. It shows the level condition for all axis. It's been on for over 5 years. I also stuck one on the top edge of my bucket. It's about 2" square.

 

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Not Brian, or answering for Brian...But I have seen some guys place bubble and/or post levels on their Quick Hitches so they can "see" the level of the implement.
 

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Not Brian, or answering for Brian...But I have seen some guys place bubble and/or post levels on their Quick Hitches so they can "see" the level of the implement.
I've seen that too. :hide:
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Not Brian, or answering for Brian...But I have seen some guys place bubble and/or post levels on their Quick Hitches so they can "see" the level of the implement.
:empathy: The bubbles work great if it is on a full 3pt quick hitch and you can see. Those of us that might have some sight problems, maybe not so good.

I am currently proto typing a rod indicator to be offered as an option later this year, but it will not be cheap. Stainless rod & tube. Price yet to be determined. :unknown:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have both bullseye levels and dual axis bubble levels that will tell me relative level but I don't think either one of them actually would get me back to "zero" on the sidelink. Zero is absolute and level is relative. Brian's prototype of a rod and tube level indicator is pretty much what I had in mind. I was thinking along the lines of a heim jointed rod connected close to the draft arm attaching point and a tube or ring attached to the cylinder body. I might just have to start playing with that idea and see what I come up with.
 

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just me but attaching rods that can get bent ... bending around and hard to see would not be my style...

i would probably put snap on hydraulic cylinder rod stops to put on the cylinder at LEVEL...and just work from level down...making for a good positive "level" everytime ....or set the cylinder so all one way is level etc...
 

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I have both bullseye levels and dual axis bubble levels that will tell me relative level but I don't think either one of them actually would get me back to "zero" on the sidelink. Zero is absolute and level is relative. Brian's prototype of a rod and tube level indicator is pretty much what I had in mind. I was thinking along the lines of a heim jointed rod connected close to the draft arm attaching point and a tube or ring attached to the cylinder body. I might just have to start playing with that idea and see what I come up with.
I think you are making too much of the need for an absolute setting of your tilt cylinder. There is nothing that you will ever do with your tractor that requires that degree of accuracy. I mean, how many folks get out a level to adjust their implements? You typically look at the left side and the right side and if they both appear roughly the same distance from the ground you declare the implement "level". :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No doubt that I'm over thinking it. It's a habit...:mocking:
 

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just me but attaching rods that can get bent ... bending around and hard to see would not be my style...

i would probably put snap on hydraulic cylinder rod stops to put on the cylinder at LEVEL...and just work from level down...making for a good positive "level" everytime ....or set the cylinder so all one way is level etc...
But often you don't want "level", such as when crowing a driveway.
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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There can be many negative issues by limiting the stroke to one direction only. This is not recommended, by me anyway.

In reality, once a person is proficient at operating their machine, the indicating rod is basically for attaching your implements. This really applies to a top link. As far as a side link, you simply line up the stationary side and then adjust the side link as needed.

And of course, if you have an I-Match or other full 3pt quick hitch, then it becomes even a less important factor that needs to be considered.
 

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But often you don't want "level", such as when crowing a driveway.
obviously he wants the option to not be level or he wouldnt have the hydro side link

i probably wasnt clear in my post..."..and just work from level down.."

what i was trying to relay was to use snap rings to establish a condition where when he acutated the hydraulics all the way one way it would be at LEVEL.....when he went the other way he would have what ever DOWN tilt he wanted......instead of having ....UP ...LEVEL...Down.... with a unknown level point......he woudl just have from LEVEL to DOWN.....

hopefully this is clearer....lol...
 

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I think you are making too much of the need for an absolute setting of your tilt cylinder. There is nothing that you will ever do with your tractor that requires that degree of accuracy. I mean, how many folks get out a level to adjust their implements? You typically look at the left side and the right side and if they both appear roughly the same distance from the ground you declare the implement "level". :)
Some of us have OCD issues....:lol:

No doubt that I'm over thinking it. It's a habit...:mocking:
I have NEVER been accused of that!...... :hide:


How about a pendulum? Take the bottom half of a clock (marked in degrees) and a pointer.

We can start over engineering from there, like adding dampeners, etc.
 

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No doubt that I'm over thinking it. It's a habit...:mocking:
Don't know you from Adam, but you sound like my BIL.

Up till 5-8 yrs ago he had never done any carpenter work, mechanic for first part of his life and now coal miner for past 20-25 yrs. So he wants convert his basement to a bedroom. I go in he has 3 8' 2x4 laying across the top and bottom of the framing and then his 8 or10' long 2x4 laid in place for his studs.

I asked him why not buy 16' 2x4 for top and bottom plates... he told me HE DID buy them cut them to 8' :banghead: and every time he came to stud at the end of 2x4 he would start and end with a another 2x4 stud. :banghead:25 yrs later still does the same thing. He told me it makes the wall to weak by putting one half of 2x4 on one plate and the other half on the next 2x4 plate (base).
Saturday he's putting vinyl siding on his garage he built. After walking around measuring ,looking, looking, measuring , and then again some more. I walked away, I had told him how to install the starter strip ..
Each time I've tried to help him , I asked him "HAVE YOU ever done this " NO he would answer.. I would tell him,, "remember I grew up with a hammer in my hand, and helped lay blocks , helped framed houses, or putting siding on a house. You are internet smart,, and I'm not smart enough to work with you."
Vinyl siding needs to be nailed loose and occasionally you will hit the nail to tight .It won't hurt a thing , knowing him he will have a gauge made so every nail will be the same depth.
When he was attaching the studs to the plate, I had one or two not perfectly square or smooth to the plate, or missed the line by 1/8".. He spent close to 3 hrs making every 2x4 stud PERFECT. He would probably kil over if he stopped and looked at the framing on the homes being built today.

MY Point there is a time and place for perfection , and other times it does not matter majority of the time using your tractor implement it doesn't matter.
 

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The problem with a bubble level indicator on the impliment or quick hitch is that it's only meaningful when the tractor itself is on level ground as well. So if you're parked on a nice flat level concrete pad, super. But once you're out working, the tractor itself may no be level, so you're not going to recenter and implement with a bubble level.
 

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The problem with a bubble level indicator on the impliment or quick hitch is that it's only meaningful when the tractor itself is on level ground as well. So if you're parked on a nice flat level concrete pad, super. But once you're out working, the tractor itself may no be level, so you're not going to recenter and implement with a bubble level.
You are absolutely correct. My only need for the bubble level is to quickly bring my quick hitch "back to zero" so I can easily attach and detach implements. As most everyone knows, when the quick hitch isn't plumb it can be difficult to engage and disengage implements.

But once you are out working in the dirt everything becomes relative. I guess it all depends on what type of work you are doing. If you are grading airport runways or something similar it's probably easier to just lay one of these across your implement.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don't know you from Adam,
You're right, you don't.

I'm laughing at myself for bothering to ask. All of the responses of "it doesn't matter", or "it's only useful to know when you're hooking up an implement" etc. pretty much tell me all I need to know, so thanks for that...
 

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You're right, you don't.

I'm laughing at myself for bothering to ask. All of the responses of "it doesn't matter", or "it's only useful to know when you're hooking up an implement" etc. pretty much tell me all I need to know, so thanks for that...
You can't quit now.

Don't go leaving me hanging out to dry all by myself.

I have been trying to figure out something like this for, well a while.
 

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He seems disgruntled that he asked for opinions and got them....
Well, when asking a question on an internet forum you have to have a good BS filter. That and the old saying "Opinions are like buttholes, everyone has one and they all stink."


I want something like this so that I can repeat the angle.

The 3 point lift has position control, markings, and even a stop that you can adjust.

With typical T&T controls, there isn't anything to go by. Some of the older tractors had this same type of 3 point control and all the 1 series up sells/hype was the position control on the 3 point.

Some "operators" have the experience or talent to eyeball it. Others don't think it "matters" and it is close enough.

Some of us are a bit more OCD. They put sights on a rifle so you can hit the target, not just get close.

:soapbox: Rant over. I am gonna go play with my protractors.
 
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