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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2006 Silverado and an odd noise recently started when I go over a rough spot. It sounds like something is oil canning. I can duplicate it if I rock the bed side to side hard and can actually feel it.

I checked all the bed bolts and those are tight. I can't find anything underneath that's loose. (Actually I found several things but none of them were the noise.)

My local mechanic says its the axle working in and out of the rear differential but not to worry about it. I jacked up the rear today and both rear wheels will shake if moved vertically but not a horizontal shake. It's a G80 rear on a 4x4 if that makes any difference.
It may very well be the axles but how is that "nothing to worry about"?

Treefarmer
 

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The G80 is the descriptor for the addition of the Eaton locking differential. What truck is this in? Is it a semi floating or full floating axle in a heavy 3/4 or 1 ton? The Eaton locker was put in Colorado's to 3500's.
Full floating axles have the axle shafts independent of the hub and bearing assembly and they have some play where they can move in and out maybe 1/8 of an inch and are trapped. The tightness of the bearing-hub is separate from the axle shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
1500 Work truck

The G80 is the descriptor for the addition of the Eaton locking differential. What truck is this in? Is it a semi floating or full floating axle in a heavy 3/4 or 1 ton? The Eaton locker was put in Colorado's to 3500's.
Full floating axles have the axle shafts independent of the hub and bearing assembly and they have some play where they can move in and out maybe 1/8 of an inch and are trapped. The tightness of the bearing-hub is separate from the axle shaft.
It's a 1500 work truck. It's does not have the G80 code. It's a GU6 with 3.42 gearing. Sorry about the error.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Don't think so

Could it be a bad u joint on the drive shaft ?
I was sorta hoping for that but they seem ok. I haven't dropped them yet as I'm still checking things out. That still doesn't get to the wheels having some top/bottom rock.

Treefarmer
 

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Hiya,

Sounds like the it may be a similar sound the old 10 and 12 bolt GM diffs made when you did the same thing to the car/truck. Those used "C" clips to retain the axles to the spider gears and they allowed some in and out movement that would result in a hollow can like sound as they moved in and out as the car moved side to side.

Simple test to replicate:
Jack up the rear, place jack stands under the axle housing tubes so both wheels are of the ground and the truck is very stable as you will be pushing and pulling on the wheels to replicate the lateral movement of the truck

pull one tire out as you rotate it to get it as far out as possible
put both hands on the tire and push in, you should hear a muffled clunk as the axle is pushed in
now grab the inside of the tire, pull outward rapidly on the wheel, you should hear a hollow clunk sound as the axle moves outward and it's movement is stopped by the clip.

The C type axles tend to spit out axles under heavy cornering or acceleration, most tracks require you convert them to a bolt-in retainer type like the 8-3/4 Chrysler, 9" Ford or Dana 60.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks

Hiya,

Sounds like the it may be a similar sound the old 10 and 12 bolt GM diffs made when you did the same thing to the car/truck. Those used "C" clips to retain the axles to the spider gears and they allowed some in and out movement that would result in a hollow can like sound as they moved in and out as the car moved side to side.

Simple test to replicate:
Jack up the rear, place jack stands under the axle housing tubes so both wheels are of the ground and the truck is very stable as you will be pushing and pulling on the wheels to replicate the lateral movement of the truck

pull one tire out as you rotate it to get it as far out as possible
put both hands on the tire and push in, you should hear a muffled clunk as the axle is pushed in
now grab the inside of the tire, pull outward rapidly on the wheel, you should hear a hollow clunk sound as the axle moves outward and it's movement is stopped by the clip.

The C type axles tend to spit out axles under heavy cornering or acceleration, most tracks require you convert them to a bolt-in retainer type like the 8-3/4 Chrysler, 9" Ford or Dana 60.
Yep, sounds like what I'm hearing when I jacked it up. Do you know what a reliable replacement would be for my truck? It's 4 x 4 so I'll have to keep the same ratio.

Thanks again.

Treefarmer
 

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Yep, sounds like what I'm hearing when I jacked it up. Do you know what a reliable replacement would be for my truck? It's 4 x 4 so I'll have to keep the same ratio.

Thanks again.

Treefarmer
Give the guys at Strange Engineering, Moser Engineering, Tom's Differentials or Currie Enterprises a call, one of them will have a kit that consists of replacement bearings, new style retainer plates, seals and gaskets.

You will need a 15-20 ton hydraulic press tall enough for the axle length to change out the bearings yourself, otherwise, take them to an automotive machine shop to do the press work.
 

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I was going to suggest throwing a 3/4 ton axle under there but after thinking about it, no, that's just a bit too country...
 

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tree farmer-utoh-darn I got the same yr and same ratio too. no trouble here yet, fingers crossed for sure. now my 2000 was a different deal. I had a 16 old boy who liked to show other boys how the old mans truck would spin tires, well he took the posi locker out, and about the kitchen sink back then. they covered the replacement rear, but I had to do a lot of fast talking to the general manager, who kept saying u had to have been stuck badly to tear it up this bad. we both was under the truck looking for tale, tale signs of being stuck-nothing. I've keep that little locker all these yrs, just to prove to my boy, what laying rubber will do. heck-I'm even afraid to let my back tires spin, afraid that posi locker will let go. theirs nothing to it, I couldn't believe how thumping little it is. so I will be watching here very closely to how it plays out.:pickup:
 

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I was going to suggest throwing a 3/4 ton axle under there but after thinking about it, no, that's just a bit too country...
3/4 ton isn't too country, a 1 ton dually or a top loader from a Duce and a half is country...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Might have stressed it

tree farmer-utoh-darn I got the same yr and same ratio too. no trouble here yet, fingers crossed for sure. now my 2000 was a different deal. I had a 16 old boy who liked to show other boys how the old mans truck would spin tires, well he took the posi locker out, and about the kitchen sink back then. they covered the replacement rear, but I had to do a lot of fast talking to the general manager, who kept saying u had to have been stuck badly to tear it up this bad. we both was under the truck looking for tale, tale signs of being stuck-nothing. I've keep that little locker all these yrs, just to prove to my boy, what laying rubber will do. heck-I'm even afraid to let my back tires spin, afraid that posi locker will let go. theirs nothing to it, I couldn't believe how thumping little it is. so I will be watching here very closely to how it plays out.:pickup:
I'm a pretty gentle driver but have been towing a trailer right at the rated towing capacity for the truck. Not overweight, nor every day but that might have been some additional stress. I wouldn't have any issue putting a beefier rear under there except I need to match the ratio or change the front too. At that point, I might was well look around for a bigger truck. . .

I'll put updates as it plays out. Hopefully I can get it fixed before something really lets loose.

Treefarmer
 

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I was going to suggest throwing a 3/4 ton axle under there but after thinking about it, no, that's just a bit too country...
Plus you would have to carry an 8 lug spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That too

Plus you would have to carry an 8 lug spare.
Yep, swap both differentials to end up with two different hubs makes too many problems. I wish I'd had dollars for a 3/4 ton when I bought this one (bought used at a good price) but it's been a good truck up to now. I'll sort this issue out and baby it along until I can do better. Even if I had the :gizmo: , I'm not sure I could walk into a dealership and plunk down $40-60,000 for a new truck. I know people do that but I'm the guy that looks for the truck after the first owner has run it 100,000 miles but treated it well.

Treefarmer
 

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Yep, swap both differentials to end up with two different hubs makes too many problems. I wish I'd had dollars for a 3/4 ton when I bought this one (bought used at a good price) but it's been a good truck up to now. I'll sort this issue out and baby it along until I can do better. Even if I had the :gizmo: , I'm not sure I could walk into a dealership and plunk down $40-60,000 for a new truck. I know people do that but I'm the guy that looks for the truck after the first owner has run it 100,000 miles but treated it well.

Treefarmer
I want the low mileage lease return. My 2011 Silverado had 16,XXX miles and was just in from a 36 month lease when I bought it in 2014 :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sounds good

I want the low mileage lease return. My 2011 Silverado had 16,XXX miles and was just in from a 36 month lease when I bought it in 2014 :good2:
I would want that too but the dollars might get in the way. Somehow it's easier to spend than to make. I know some folks are on the other end and make money easier than they spend it but I haven't learned that trick yet. I might never get to take up slacking. :drinks:

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looking at an Eaton

Give the guys at Strange Engineering, Moser Engineering, Tom's Differentials or Currie Enterprises a call, one of them will have a kit that consists of replacement bearings, new style retainer plates, seals and gaskets.

You will need a 15-20 ton hydraulic press tall enough for the axle length to change out the bearings yourself, otherwise, take them to an automotive machine shop to do the press work.
It goes in the shop next week. Depending on that it looks like inside, I'm considering an Eaton TrueTrac limited slip. I would appreciate any feedback on those if anyone has used one. Detroit Truetrac

Treefarmer
 

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It goes in the shop next week. Depending on that it looks like inside, I'm considering an Eaton TrueTrac limited slip. I would appreciate any feedback on those if anyone has used one. Detroit Truetrac

Treefarmer
That is an excellent pic imo, no clutch material, open diff under normal driving conditions and rapid lockup. I bet it will cost over $500 labor to install and reset the gears. Might as well renew the whole axle at that point, new bearings and shaft seals etc.
 

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I musta got lost.....Didn't you determine that your noise was the normal sound to expect from a "C-clip" retained axle? I'm sorry to stick my fat nose in your business but I just don't see a problem that justifies replacing/rebuilding the axle. I worked at a GM dealership for several years and never once saw one of these things "spit out" an axle. I HAVE seen some tore up rear ends, but the little bit of slack in the axle retainers never gave a problem. Just tryin to save you some money. But maybe I missed another key clue in the thread. :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You may be correct

I musta got lost.....Didn't you determine that your noise was the normal sound to expect from a "C-clip" retained axle? I'm sorry to stick my fat nose in your business but I just don't see a problem that justifies replacing/rebuilding the axle. I worked at a GM dealership for several years and never once saw one of these things "spit out" an axle. I HAVE seen some tore up rear ends, but the little bit of slack in the axle retainers never gave a problem. Just tryin to save you some money. But maybe I missed another key clue in the thread. :dunno:
I'm not sure at this point if it's a normal noise or not. It started relatively quickly and is now getting more pronounced so I'm a bit worried there is something abnormal going on. The local mechanic will take a look next week, pull the cover, check for problems etc. If it is a "normal" noise I'll have to say it's extremely annoying, particularly when it showed up over a few hundred miles and wasn't there before.

I would pull the cover and take a look myself but don't have a lift or a good spot out of the wind and dust and don't want to create a problem rather than solve one.

Treefarmer
 
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