[Lazy Bones]

I installed the single point hydraulic connector for my front end loader about a month ago. I’ve noticed that the design of the vertical column that bolts to the tractor, the one with the hydraulic fittings on the top, is very very close to the side engine panel. I have a very difficult time removing and reinstalling that side panel on the engine. At best, I’m going to eventually end up with a very scratched up side panel, and at worst it will be a broken panel. While I personally think that this is a design error, I recognize that I have to live with it. Have any of you that have the same configuration figured out an easy way to remove and reinstall that side engine panel?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I installed the single point hydraulic connector for my front end loader about a month ago. I’ve noticed that the design of the vertical column that bolts to the tractor, the one with the hydraulic fittings on the top, is very very close to the side engine panel. I have a very difficult time removing and reinstalling that side panel on the engine. At best, I’m going to eventually end up with a very scratched up side panel, and at worst it will be a broken panel. While I personally think that this is a design error, I recognize that I have to live with it. Have any of you that have the same configuration figured out an easy way to remove and reinstall that side engine panel?

It's tight for sure. I've found sliding the panel back to disengage and then slowly working it up seems to help. I also place a small towel between the upright and the panel to help avoid scratches.

I thought about shimming it out 1/8" to 1/4" but not sure if it would help or maybe cause issues between the upright and the loader mast.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Be sure to check out this thread so at least you're prepared:

Leaking Single Point Hydraulic Connector.

Was using the loader when I noticed a leak at the SPHC. I tried to take the loader off but it just started spraying from between the 2 mating pieces. I removed the connector and this was sitting inside one of the couplers. Looks to be a broken seal of some sort. I checked JD PARTS for...

www.greentractortalk.com

 

[Lazy Bones]

It's tight for sure. I've found sliding the panel back to disengage and then slowly working it up seems to help. I also place a small towel between the upright and the panel to help avoid scratches.

I thought about shimming it out 1/8" to 1/4" but not sure if it would help or maybe cause issues between the upright and the loader mast.

the towel idea sounds workable. Thanks.

 

[MattL]

I've had my tractor for over 4 years and have never removed that panel.... What am I doing wrong?

 

[Lazy Bones]

I've had my tractor for over 4 years and have never removed that panel.... What am I doing wrong?

I have a 2021 unit. Removing this panel is necessary for access to the air cleaner. If you have an older unit, where you can remove the air cleaner without removing that panel, then you probably don’t have the air cleaner recall performed.

 

[MattL]

I have a 2021 unit. Removing this panel is necessary for access to the air cleaner. If you have an older unit, where you can remove the air cleaner without removing that panel, then you probably don’t have the air cleaner recall performed.

Having installed the air cleaner retrofit on my 2017 recently (at about 200 hours), i'd likely just remove the whole assembly, it took 5 min to put in, likely as long as it would take me to take off that panel.

 

[Lazy Bones]

Having installed the air cleaner retrofit on my 2017 recently (at about 200 hours), i'd likely just remove the whole assembly, it took 5 min to put in, likely as long as it would take me to take off that panel.

Good point.

 

[BOBL]

It's the front of the engine housing panel that will give a hard time. Release the panel, slide it to the removal position, pull the front end towards you, and then slide it out with ease. The rubber edging you put on the support column will keep the panel from being scratch. 2 minutes tops.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

It's the front of the engine housing panel that will give a hard time. Release the panel, slide it to the removal position, pull the front end towards you, and then slide it out with ease. The rubber edging you put on the support column will keep the panel from being scratch. 2 minutes tops.

Doesn't the loader stand get in the way?

 

[MattL]

Doesn't the loader stand get in the way?

You are taking off engine fairing panels with loader ON? 🤣

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

You are taking off engine fairing panels with loader ON? 🤣

View attachment 791410

Why not??

 

[chex313]

I installed the single point hydraulic connector for my front end loader about a month ago. I’ve noticed that the design of the vertical column that bolts to the tractor, the one with the hydraulic fittings on the top, is very very close to the side engine panel. I have a very difficult time removing and reinstalling that side panel on the engine. At best, I’m going to eventually end up with a very scratched up side panel, and at worst it will be a broken panel. While I personally think that this is a design error, I recognize that I have to live with it. Have any of you that have the same configuration figured out an easy way to remove and reinstall that side engine panel?

I added a few washers when I mounted mine to fix this. The bolts are plenty long enough. I think I added two but I wish I had added three. I'll fix that when I get around to buying longer original bolts. My OEM bolts have the square under the round head. So they were easy to tighten. They just were not long enough. The ones with the kit were just regular bolts.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I added a few washers when I mounted mine to fix this. The bolts are plenty long enough. I think I added two but I wish I had added three. I'll fix that when I get around to buying longer original bolts. My OEM bolts have the square under the round head. So they were easy to tighten. They just were not long enough. The ones with the kit were just regular bolts.

You mounted the mast, with shim washers, using the bolts that were already there? Mine were barely long enough to get the nuts started...

 

[RayLagrange]

You mounted the mast, with shim washers, using the bolts that were already there? Mine were barely long enough to get the nuts started...

I didn’t use the washers that came with the single point. Ended up taking it back off and installing it with washers in between and wish I has used two. There were plenty that came with. Anyway I slide it back far enough to disengage and then flip the front up and then when there’s enough space it can be removed easily. The towel idea is one that I hadn’t thought of, I will be doing that from now on as well!

 

[Lazy Bones]

I hate you people. Now I’ve got to go outside and look at my tractor AGAIN!! To see how many washers I can I add without interfering with normal FEL operation. Why didn’t you suggest this before I even bought the kit? Then I wouldn’t have all these problems.😅 (note the first word in my avatar name)

 

[chex313]

You mounted the mast, with shim washers, using the bolts that were already there? Mine were barely long enough to get the nuts started...

No Mark I used the short ones from the kit...I want to use the OEM since they fit in the square hole. I wouldn't need to hold them with a wrench. Kinda tight back there. I just need longer ones. The 1026R uses slightly different hardware.

 

[chex313]

I hate you people. Now I’ve got to go outside and look at my tractor AGAIN!! To see how many washers I can I add without interfering with normal FEL operation. Why didn’t you suggest this before I even bought the kit? Then I wouldn’t have all these problems.😅 (note the first word in my avatar name)

They are a pain to hold in place...If you can get an extra pair of hands it would be a breeze. At least 3 fit. I remember holding that piece of iron in one hand and putting the bolt through without dropping the washers out. Like threading a needle. Too bad the longer bolts can not fit from the inside out, like my OEM's did.

 

[Mackford13]

I added a few washers when I mounted mine to fix this. The bolts are plenty long enough. I think I added two but I wish I had added three. I'll fix that when I get around to buying longer original bolts. My OEM bolts have the square under the round head. So they were easy to tighten. They just were not long enough. The ones with the kit were just regular bolts.

You mounted the mast, with shim washers, using the bolts that were already there? Mine were barely long enough to get the nuts started...

I did the same thing. Used 2 of shim washers that were included along with the bolts that were included worked out great. Panel slides off with ease.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I guess you guys basically installed the SPHC using the 2025R instructions which calls for 3 spacer washers on each bolt.

I'll upgrade mine when I reinstall the manifolds and that should eliminate the tight fit of the side cover.