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I have the larger 08/1/2" size Multicoupler/Singlepoint coupler on both my tractors. No problems so far. I think guys were building brackets and using the larger multicoupler before JD came out with this problem prone one.
 

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Mine is the l;arger one as well. A six point that I have 2 of. One for the loader and one for the bucket and other attachments. I only use two pints for the front one. I haven't had any issues with mine and I don't baby it. Must be something different about them.
 

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1026R. Grand Cherokee, Sante Fe Sport
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Do you folks have links to your SP's? I would consider changing if I had another failure. Are you able to leave the tractor running?
 

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Mine are also the 3 function. I reversed the handle, easy to do, so I could use my right hand to operate, and bent the handle straighter.
First MultiCoupler as received. Second is JD 2030 w/JD 245 loader. Third is JD6415 wJD640 loader.
I shut my tractors down and relieve the pressure. Old habit from when they had quick couplers.
The 245 loader originally had the quick couplers mounted on the loader valve. I could not bring myself to drill the fender for the joystick bracket, so I made the bracket to mount it, that attaches to the loader mount. Later I added to that bracket, a mount for the multicoupler, and ran hoses from the mid valve,and a rear SCV for the 3rd function to it.
I also made the mount for the multicoupler to the loader mount on the 640 loader. I turned the multicoupler 90° from the way JD mounts it. I found it easier to pull the handle like a slot machine, than turn it like a clock hand.
a picture
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1026R. Grand Cherokee, Sante Fe Sport
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Nice...🍺 two creative solutions...That ball valve looks like the one I am using to switch to MMM lift. (y)
 

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Nice...🍺 two creative solutions...That ball valve looks like the one I am using to switch to MMM lift. (y)
I had the ball valve and when I was at the local fair that year, I saw the at the John Deere display, JD was putting a ball valve in the loader lift hose. I figured if their lawyers let them install a ball valve there, so could I.
 
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2015 1025R
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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
@chex313

@MarkEagleUSA

Sneak peek !!

Going into test mode this weekend when I get a free moment to swap a coupler with a new seal to check pressures and leaks.
These are exact replicas of the blue seals... and we have part numbers :D

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
Couple of Photo's of the Seal replacement so you don't need a service shop to do it for you.
Next I'll be installing this coupler to check for leaks and to verify the seal dimensions are good.


Damaged Seal vs New Seal

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Disassembly in Order for Reassembly

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Massage the seal into the groove

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Work it in by fingers as much as possible. If you need a tool be sure it's round edged.

Camera accessory Camera lens Circle Lens Auto part


Massage the seal into the groove

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Verify fit with the cap, which helps seat the seal as well.

Gas Circle Camera accessory Plastic Auto part


Here's a picture of the Seals in the Mating part for reference and to clean debris prior to assembly

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Verify fit (Not fully assembled in this picture) - Spring compression forces will push the cap past the seal once fully assembled.

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Ready for business.

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Faster has instructions that say the seal can be replaced without disassembling the coupler. Are you finding that's not the case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Faster has instructions that say the seal can be replaced without disassembling the coupler. Are you finding that's not the case?
I didn't try it this way, but the Compression of the spring would be a tough one to fight against in my opinion. I would recommend disassembling to relieve the spring compression and maybe to clean up the seal groove if there are pieces of the damaged seal left over.

You could possibly crack the fitting loose and try it that way I suppose, either way by relieving the spring compression you've pretty much disassembled the coupler.
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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I didn't try it this way, but the tension of the spring would be a tough one to fight against in my opinion. I would recommend disassembling to relieve the spring tension and maybe to clean up the seal groove if there are pieces of the damaged seal left over.

You could possibly crack the fitting loose and try it that way I suppose, either way by relieving the spring tension you've pretty much disassembled the coupler.
The Faster instructions can be found here:



Male can be done without disassembly. Female does show being disassembled.

Are these seals you're using stock parts or something custom?
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
@MarkEagleUSA

^^^ Good to know, but it is a fight, I can guarantee that.

I did disassemble mine so it can be sent to the seal manufacture for measuring, so I was already at that point when posting these pictures.
I think most will appreciate knowing these couplers can be disassembled as shown. I had no idea until I took a closer look ha! It gives maintenance another option.

The seals came from a seal manufacture, and until I've proven they work (which will be soon) I'll find out a good way to make it easy for everyone to get their hands on them to make them available.

Keeping in mind that I did invest time and money into this process - so bare with me.
I have no intention of profiting off this.... I did it for me... and for all of you because I truly believe the single point is one of the best options to purchase on these tractors.
I need to convert @chex313 back to the SPC group of love ha! :)

Here's a snap shot of 1 of the drawings during the R&D process


Font Parallel Rectangle Diagram Drawing
 

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1026R. Grand Cherokee, Sante Fe Sport
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Upon successful conclusion Matt. I'll need to know where to send the Snow Globes (Aka your favorite Beverage...Cognac?) and where to send it... 🍺 (y)(y)

and a vote for this to be stickied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Commence Seal testing !!

I replaced 1 coupler today (Same coupler I had the failure on) to see if there's a repeat issue.
Over the next few weeks, I'll put the SPC through the paces with connecting and disconnecting multiple times to accelerate the potential wear if any.
I'm also going to connect and disconnect while running at idle, locking the valve, and shutting down the tractor since I have access to 15 more seals.
After I feel I've put on enough hours, I'm going to swap all couplers with the new seals as if there was a full seal replacement and pay attention to leaks and wear.
I will say so far, that I have already connected and disconnected a good 20 times or more.

As of right now I'm happy with the results..... stay tuned !

Green Engineering Gas Machine Motor vehicle


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1026R. Grand Cherokee, Sante Fe Sport
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By the way Matt, What are the new seals made of ? Viton? Buna N ? Or something else. I don't know I ever learned what the old ones were. When I was in Purchasing in the 80's the difference between between a durable seal and a one that would fail with heat was maybe 10 cents...Which amounted to $1000's of dollars because of how many we used.

For us buying 20 of these it is nothing...even though they charge dollars for them now instead of cents.

Are these for both halves? Top and bottom or just bottom you have pictured?

I had both the top and the bottom of the Yellow fail. So I would need to replace both. Assuming they fail a third time on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
@chex313
The seals I'm working with currently are "High Performance" (HP) Urethane and we used the standard DS131 spec sheet to determine the measurements using the coupler. Unfortunately at the moment I've only invested time into the bottom half couplers because I have been using the loader a lot lately on a major project I've been working on over the last 2 years. That being said I can commit to the same process, and send the top half when snow is on the ground as I keep the loader on for the entire winter to operate my box plow. I'll add my old hydraulic lines to the system to temporarily by pass the SPC.

These new seals are a bit stiffer in comparison to the OEM and while watching the spring activate inside the coupler there is a bit more of a push and snap to them... which I like seeing so far. This is what I'm paying attention to right now if measurements need to be slightly adjusted or this is a root cause solution to prevent failure.
I wouldn't want to release how to get the seals until I can confidently say there's no issues. And yes.... I'm an engineer/fabricator.... and I know the waiting game sucks. lol
 

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1026R. Grand Cherokee, Sante Fe Sport
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Thanks for the update Matt. 🍺

I'll be clearing leaves for the rest of the month. Than I can switch the SCUT for snow and Grapple work and it can stay on till spring.
 
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