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I’m soliciting ideas for adding a loafing shed to my sloping property. :unknown:

The window shot looking south gives you an idea of the slope I’m dealing with versus vertical. Other pictures show the initial work I’ve started, moving soil from high (left) side to the low end (right). The space I’ve started is larger than the 12’ x 20’ (24') shed I’m considering. Gutter to handle rain on the backside away from the shed to the south and west (back and right).

In order to reduce the amount of dirt to move I’ve considered splitting the 20’ at 10’ with 2x or 4x timbers stack tall enough to get the first 10’ level.

Last picture was found online of a 12' x 24'. I would need overhang on the back side.

Slope-1.jpg DSC_1039.jpg DSC_1043.jpg DSC_1041.jpg DSC_1040.jpg DSC_1042.jpg 12x24_loafing_shed_lt_stone-rustic_trim.JPG
 
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marlin; the last pic u have their, is what we around where I live kinda a lean-too. I have a 3 bay one with barn doors on it. a lot of people put them up to park their attachments in. big jim
 

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Marlin,

Any possibility of bringing in more dirt?
Seems like building up the right (west?) without having the left (east) end below grade would be desirable.

Regarding "splitting the 20'", are you saying you might have two different grades in the building? One bay having a higher floor than the other one?
If so, it seems likely that you won't like that compromise at some point in the future. A building is "somewhat permanent". I would rather do extra effort now to get it optimized rather than regretting taking shortcuts (repeatedly) later.

Just my opinion...

Tim
 

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I'm a big fan of NOT building into a slope. I like to build up a pad sloped away from the building in all directions. You could build the high side up 12-18 inches sloped back over 8 feet or so, then a gentler slope ion the front side. The only down side is having to haul in more fill. I just think in the long run it stays dryer and is easier to maintain.
 

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I built our 12X24 shed on what looks like a steeper slope than you have there. I had the back wall on the high side, and all I did was cut a ditch that caught the water before it got to the shed and channeled it around to either side.
I agree with 56FordGuy about a diversion ditch. We put buildings on slopes in W. PA all the time. Don't be afraid to re-grade the slope behind the shed rather than just digging into the slope and leaving a shelf behind your shed. The dirt removed grading this slope (so it's mowable) and the diversion ditch can be moved to the downhill side of the shed, building up that area (Pad) which also decreases the amount you need to dig into the slope.
 
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I agree with Arlen, build up an area larger than the shelter you finally end up building. Cattle love to stand on high dry ground out of the mud/manure and sun themselves.

Dad built a mound right in the middle of his cattle yard. Was about five feet tall and 50 feet by 40 feet oval in shape. Cattle would sleep in the loafing barn at night and at day break come out and stand or lay on the mound all day except on rainy days. The mound was almost always dry. Cattle don't like standing belly deep in mud/manure anymore than we would.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all for your input. I worked a few hours yesterday, thought it was looking pretty good. :greentractorride: Then I ran a string level across the south and east side of the pad. I pulled string a tight as possible. While not perfectly accurate, it does give an indication of the grade versus level. . . . Well, it's no as good as I thought. :banghead:

While I believe drainage can be controlled with a slight ditch or berm, I do not like grading lower on the left (east) side, so I think it's time to start building up the pad. If you look close you can almost see the string. :laugh: I have plenty of ground to scrape for fill so I'm going to start adding to the pad.

South Line.jpg East Line.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I built our 12X24 shed on what looks like a steeper slope than you have there. I had the back wall on the high side, and all I did was cut a ditch that caught the water before it got to the shed and channeled it around to either side.
Can you post a picture of you shed, or was it at your last place??
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Marlin,

Any possibility of bringing in more dirt?
Seems like building up the right (west?) without having the left (east) end below grade would be desirable.

Regarding "splitting the 20'", are you saying you might have two different grades in the building? One bay having a higher floor than the other one?
If so, it seems likely that you won't like that compromise at some point in the future. A building is "somewhat permanent". I would rather do extra effort now to get it optimized rather than regretting taking shortcuts (repeatedly) later.

Just my opinion...

Tim
Yes, I agree now that I see how far I have to go. I think I'm going to add fill now.
While I think splitting it would be okay since half it for critters and the other for the :greentractorride:, grain and hay, you do make a good point. Thanks!!
 

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I've worked filling this in a little today. I'm at the point I need a tripod laser lever to get a better picture where the grade is. Amazon has a cheap one I suspect will work. Thoughts??

Johnson Level and Tool 40-0921 Self-Leveling Cross Line Laser Level Kit - Lazer Level Transit - Amazon.com

View attachment 47974
The laser level is a great idea. It doesn't take an expensive one for what I see you are trying to do. I use a cheap Dewalt unit and it certainly gives the elevations needed. In fact, I'll be using it to regrade around my shop addition pretty soon.
 
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I've worked filling this in a little today. I'm at the point I need a tripod laser lever to get a better picture where the grade is. Amazon has a cheap one I suspect will work. Thoughts??

Johnson Level and Tool 40-0921 Self-Leveling Cross Line Laser Level Kit - Lazer Level Transit - Amazon.com

View attachment 47974
Marlin; can I ask how ur going to use this to shoot grades? what are u going to use a yard stick and just add and substract the measements of the dot. I seen on the reviews that the laser will only shoot a beam 25 ft, so for that reason, it's back to a locklevel for what I need . big jim
 
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Marlin; can I ask how ur going to use this to shoot grades? what are u going to use a yard stick and just add and substract the measements of the dot. I seen on the reviews that the laser will only shoot a beam 25 ft, so for that reason, it's back to a locklevel for what I need . big jim
Having never done anything like this before, and only observed, I'll be figuring out what works. I have 2" x 2" post I plan to pound in each corner and then measure down from the laser strike. It probably will be difficult to see in full sunshine so I may have to mark the laser just after dusk. The seller states 100' indoors so I'm thinking that will work.

I worked on adding fill in yesterdays heat. It's looking more raised but continued adding is in order to the untrained eye. Our clay soil is 'hard as a rock' in the summer, so scraping is difficult, but it's working and I doing some needed leveling at the same time which will make cutting much easier and controlled next year.
DSC_1061.jpg DSC_1062.jpg DSC_1063.jpg DSC_1064.jpg DSC_1065.jpg

You can tell from the last photo how much I've raised the grade on the low side already. The dead grass fluff comes to the top when I drag a weighted pallet over the pad. It's easily picked up and tossed over the rear fence.

More today however, I'm taking it slow in our 95* temps . . . . :kidw_truck_smiley:
 

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Marlin; looking good so far; I went back and looked at the laser level again, and I would say if u marked ur stakes at dusk,like u said this thing should work. it was in the reviews is where I read about it only shot 25 ft. so go for it, and don't over work ur self in the heat vave ur having out their. big jim
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've gone as far as I think I should, I need a device now to indicate level. I suspect I have too much fill and will need to be to level down as I'm leveling. The laser I ordered should arrive next week.
DSC_1079.jpg
 
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No laser till Thursday I think. Probably won't do anything till next week because we're thinking of a two day to central Oregon to visit family. I have a transfer Thursday and we'd leave after that. It's a James River Armory Rockola M1 Carbine 30 Carbine. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436325788.346955.jpg


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