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Well, it was bound to happen. I am getting ready to tear into the rear brakes on my 08 F250 (only 87K miles) to troubleshoot a problem with the drum in hat (DIH) parking brakes. It is a safe bet that I will be replacing the backing plates as the consensus is that the problems I am having are likely because the brake shoe attachment pins have pulled through the backing plates.

If I am going to tear it apart, I am going to install new pads and rotors. I have no current issues, but all 4 wheels are at about 3/16" pad remaining. This is the 2nd set of pads on both axles (due to caliper issues that caused premature bad failure on one wheel on each axle!). I am definitely planning to install new rotors and pads on all 4 wheels. Other than a seized caliper and a stuck caliper slide, I have never had any complaints with these brakes. The rotors are not warped. I tow a 13K lb trailer and have never really felt like the truck brakes have fallen short.

So, the question is: Do I spend the extra money for drilled and slotted rotors? I have heard mixed reviews on whether you can even tell a difference on some vehicles. I have been looking at the 4 wheel Power Stop kits that include rotors, pads, and hardware. The price goes from $300 to almost $500 between their daily driver and heavy duty/towing (drilled and slotted) rotors. I say rotors, but assume that the pads are also different.

A friend of mine has had good luck with these "other" brands on ebay. I have never heard of any of the brands. They claim guarantees and great reviews. And the price is significantly cheaper. I have seen drilled and slotted kits for around $300. So, is it more important to have a brand name or the upgraded rotors/pads?

Thanks for your input,

Lee
 

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Well, it was bound to happen. I am getting ready to tear into the rear brakes on my 08 F250 (only 87K miles) to troubleshoot a problem with the drum in hat (DIH) parking brakes. It is a safe bet that I will be replacing the backing plates as the consensus is that the problems I am having are likely because the brake shoe attachment pins have pulled through the backing plates.

If I am going to tear it apart, I am going to install new pads and rotors. I have no current issues, but all 4 wheels are at about 3/16" pad remaining. This is the 2nd set of pads on both axles (due to caliper issues that caused premature bad failure on one wheel on each axle!). I am definitely planning to install new rotors and pads on all 4 wheels. Other than a seized caliper and a stuck caliper slide, I have never had any complaints with these brakes. The rotors are not warped. I tow a 13K lb trailer and have never really felt like the truck brakes have fallen short.

So, the question is: Do I spend the extra money for drilled and slotted rotors? I have heard mixed reviews on whether you can even tell a difference on some vehicles. I have been looking at the 4 wheel Power Stop kits that include rotors, pads, and hardware. The price goes from $300 to almost $500 between their daily driver and heavy duty/towing (drilled and slotted) rotors. I say rotors, but assume that the pads are also different.

A friend of mine has had good luck with these "other" brands on ebay. I have never heard of any of the brands. They claim guarantees and great reviews. And the price is significantly cheaper. I have seen drilled and slotted kits for around $300. So, is it more important to have a brand name or the upgraded rotors/pads?

Thanks for your input,

Lee
You don't really need drilled and slotted rotors on a work truck. Especially if the stock brakes are getting the job done. Just get name brand parts from a quality supplier. Stay away from TiaChiKo crap.

I had a set of slotted rotors on the front of my 2001 Wrangler. They maybe stopped a little bit better but rusted out just like the rest.
 
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Spending any more than OEM quality on your truck is a waste of money. Now, IF I were autocrossing a sports car that would be a different story. If it were my vehicle, and I've done plenty of brake work on my vehicles, I'd replace the brake parts using name brand or OEM quality parts.:good2:
 

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I appreciate the input. I put Motorcraft pads on it last time. I have been struggling with this decision because I generally like to do things "better than original". I realize, in the end, that this is not always the right thing to do.

Lee
 

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Check out Brake Performance.com. They offer slotted, drilled and slotted and smooth in your choice of Zinc plated black or silver. They have a lifetime guaranty and members on other forums have reported that they don't bicker and will definitely send out replacements if required. I put as set of drilled and slotted on my sporty car but wish I had just gone smooth. The car used to hang you in the seat belts under breaking with factory gear but now under very hard breaking there is vibration from the aggressive rotors and lots more brake dust I feel. Very nice prices I feel as well with free shipping on most good sized purchases.
 

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I appreciate the input. I put Motorcraft pads on it last time. I have been struggling with this decision because I generally like to do things "better than original". I realize, in the end, that this is not always the right thing to do.

Lee
I use all OEM parts on my truck including brakes and rotors. If it works, why change?

I don't trust any parts that come from auto parts stores - usually very hard to find the country of origin. I will not put sub-par parts on my truck - especially brakes.

There was a post in another thread about a week ago about using OEM parts vs. aftermarket from a member who is involved with making OEM parts. Very interesting - I'll see if I can find it....
 

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Yes, the price is a lot more (in most cases) for OEM, but there will usually never be a complaint about the product. I've never bought anything other than GM, so I can't say for the other brands, but I have found RockAuto to carry a lot of the same (OEM) parts. A heck of a lot cheaper too. I highly recommend them.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I also use Rock Auto when purchasing OEM replacement parts.


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I just placed two large orders with Rock Auto. They're the Green Farm Parts of the auto parts industry. :thumbup1gif:
 

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My front brakes on my 2013 F150 were shot at 35k miles. I live in Atlanta and most of my drive time is spent in traffic. I bought drilled and slotted rotors with pads from Rock Auto and now at almost 70k, they are only about 50% worn.

If you spend time in traffic like I do, they are worth the money.
 

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I just placed two large orders with Rock Auto. They're the Green Farm Parts of the auto parts industry. :thumbup1gif:
Yep! They are indeed awesome.
When I still had my old Silverado, I ordered new pads and shoes and drums and rotors, plus pads and rotors for my wifes' Equinox from Rock Auto. First, just for the heck of it, I got a price from Advanced Auto for the exact same brand pads and shoes (Wagner) and aftermarket drums and rotors. The price from Rock Auto for the Wagner products and GM rotors and drums (((including the shipping charge))) was, believe it or not, HALF the of the Advanced Auto total! Amazing!:good2:



Sorry to get off original subject:hide:
 

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Yep! They are indeed awesome.
When I still had my old Silverado, I ordered new pads and shoes and drums and rotors, plus pads and rotors for my wifes' Equinox from Rock Auto. First, just for the heck of it, I got a price from Advanced Auto for the exact same brand pads and shoes (Wagner) and aftermarket drums and rotors. The price from Rock Auto for the Wagner products and GM rotors and drums (((including the shipping charge))) was, believe it or not, HALF the of the Advanced Auto total! Amazing!:good2:



Sorry to get off original subject:hide:
Well, while we are wandering off topic.... I have a friend who does a lot of auto repair. He has been successful in getting Advance to match Rock Auto pricing (they do include shipping in their match price) when he needed something today rather than waiting for shipping!

Update- I placed the order today. Since I have been generally pleased with the performance and longevity of the standard brakes on the truck, I opted to buy standard brakes. Rock does not sell the Motorcraft brakes, though. I am going to give the Power Stop brakes a shot. Since I drive this thing so little (86K miles in 8 years) I am not terribly worried about mileage out of the brakes. It seems that my failures have all been due to time, not miles. This will be the 2nd brake job and it is based on the rusted out backing plates and not pad wear! With the first round being stuck slider (front) and seized caliper (rear) my bigger concern is how I keep tabs on those issues when I have others do the rotate/balance on the tires.

As always, thanks for all of the input.

Lee
 

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Well, while we are wandering off topic.... I have a friend who does a lot of auto repair. He has been successful in getting Advance to match Rock Auto pricing (they do include shipping in their match price) when he needed something today rather than waiting for shipping!

Update- I placed the order today. Since I have been generally pleased with the performance and longevity of the standard brakes on the truck, I opted to buy standard brakes. Rock does not sell the Motorcraft brakes, though. I am going to give the Power Stop brakes a shot. Since I drive this thing so little (86K miles in 8 years) I am not terribly worried about mileage out of the brakes. It seems that my failures have all been due to time, not miles. This will be the 2nd brake job and it is based on the rusted out backing plates and not pad wear! With the first round being stuck slider (front) and seized caliper (rear) my bigger concern is how I keep tabs on those issues when I have others do the rotate/balance on the tires.

As always, thanks for all of the input.

Lee
I have the same problem - time over mileage. I only drive my truck 5k miles a year now. But the first 5 years of my trucks life spent daily travel on our winter roads with a salt/sand mixture. Now it is eating away at everything underneath. I had to replace my front rotors at 50k miles as they were rusted badly.
 

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I replaced all the brake pads on my Tundra back in June. I originally bought Toyota OEM brake pads and put them in but they felt soft and the wheels were coated in a layer of brake dust all the time. I ran them for about 3 weeks and then ordered a set of the Powerstop "Extreme" pads designed for tow vehicles and the difference is very noticeable. Braking distance is probably about the same but the pedal doesn't fade when I'm carrying a heavy load and there is no dust to speak of.

The original pads lasted me 60,000 miles so I'l have to see how long these hold up.
 

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Be careful with some of the more aggressive brake pads. They will chew through your rotors.


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Hiya,

A couple years ago my personal Vic Interceptor stuck a front caliper. I replaced the calipers with US made Raybestos however I went to the dealer to get rotors, figuring they would be US/Canada made.... No such luck, China inc. The original US parts went 125K, these have 25K and are on the way out.

When I needed to do the backs I got some drilled and slotted from Jeg's like these: Power Stop AR8164XPR: Cross-Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Front | JEGS

They are zinc plated and seem hold up better than bare iron and I figure if I'm gonna get China inc parts even from Motorcraft, I might as well save money because a pair of these costs about the same as one from the dealer.
 

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I appreciate the input. I put Motorcraft pads on it last time. I have been struggling with this decision because I generally like to do things "better than original". I realize, in the end, that this is not always the right thing to do.

Lee
You can't do better on a Ford than using motorcraft

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