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I have a hardtop+ windshield, and soft side

I usualy dont have trouble with fogging on my. Windshield. But ben temps get between 0c and -10 and the snow get on the windshield i get some minor fogging

Im looking for something that i will barely use 4-5 time in the winter.

The tractor is always store in a heater garage

I was thinking a 12v heater, i dont want to mess with coolant line

Any input/models/comments
 
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Interested also. I have the OTC and put the heater in that came with it. It is very disappointing as I thought it would be. Only 300 watts.

I will probably go with a water heater with disconnects so I can remove it in the warmer months but if there is a electric option that will work, I'm in.
 

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I'm guessing unless el heater is over 5-750 watts it not going to help very much. For me I found a heater core with blower for a different brand tractor works great.
 
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If you are interested in just preventing fogging, a small/300Watt heater blowing on your window/s would do the job.

Focus on something to warm the surface/s of the problem windows, not heat the whole cab.

I have a 300 watt heater for my softcab. I never use it anymore and find the tractor itself provides more residual heat warming the cab than the heater ever did (i.e. I stopped using it and never noticed the difference). I have enough air exchange that fogging isn't much of an issue unless snow directly accumulates on the window surfaces and then its only in that area.

Matt+
 

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I'm very interested in people's setups for anti-fog. I have used my new OTC a few times now in pretty cold weather and it fogs/freezes on the inside of the glass. Very frustrating. The engine does heat the cab slightly but not enough to keep the windshield from fogging.

Others have pointed out that the stock alternator isn't strong enough for a most 12v heaters. I really don't want to upgrade my alternator and I definitely don't want to do a heat exchanger as I probably will remove the cab in the summer.

Would a simple fan blowing air across the windshield help at all or does it need to be warm?
 

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Im not going to say what I paid to have the dealer put one on...but it was more then that and yes that's the one. Worth every penny here in Maine
LOL, I almost edited and pointed out that my grand parents live in the county after noticing where you are located... it definitely is cold there but still struggle to justify $500 for a heater even here. Maybe if I had a bigger area to clear. Only takes me about 30-40 minutes to clear my area and my snowmobile gear is comfy and warm with my PJ's under :)
 
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IMG_0617.jpg
This is the way I mounted my heater I have it wired direct to battery with inline fuse and I put a switch to kill power because there is a small led light that stays on all time. This is the heater that came with the OTC and I really have not been able to give it a good test yet, no big snow but waiting and hoping it works? Or I may have to swap to the nice block heater. IMG_0710.jpg


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I have the same heater that came with my cab. I received comments on here stating that our electrical system can't handle the demands of that unit and that it can cause damage to the charging circuit... FWIW... http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/144161-original-tractor-factory-cab-equipped-remote-chute-cap-control.html#post2476521

Edit... Oh, I see you already were in that thread. I must have missed the final post by you. I guess let me know how it goes after using it some.
 

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Here are a few photos of heater and plumbing , plumbing was done by the dealer . I didn't take the engine covers off or move the air intake for the air filter, but hopefully you get the idea.
As you can see I don't have a clean cab. The 3/4" plastic below windshield has 1/8" or larger holes to get windshield cleared I could go with larger holes and just haven't taken time to drill the holes larger thinking they are 4 or 6" apart. The lower 3/4 has two openings one at right foot and one at my left foot, seems to work. I think I paid either 75 or $100 for the heater coil, blower ,switch and outer housing .
 

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To get the adapters to tie into the engines is where the costs are. Metric fittings to standard for the heater core. The heater cores are around 100. The items I had to buy on my 332 L&G tractor to tie into coolant was around 350 and that was coming up with my own items and how to route things.

Saved me in -25 weather. I did the 300 watt deal one winter. Ok at best and it was ran from an external pto driven alt. Nothing beats coolant heat.

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For me I went the cheap way , coming from the heater core I put a ball valve on both lines . That way I could, if I want to , shut them off remove the heater and cab or during the winter shut the one or both valves to cut the heat. Summer months I turn them off and use the just the blower fan.

I used some ball valves I had used when we had our outdoor stove .:dunno: as coalminer16 was saying the fittings was around $350.
 

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View attachment 525338
This is the way I mounted my heater I have it wired direct to battery with inline fuse and I put a switch to kill power because there is a small led light that stays on all time. This is the heater that came with the OTC and I really have not been able to give it a good test yet, no big snow but waiting and hoping it works? Or I may have to swap to the nice block heater. View attachment 525346
Awesome snow setup!

That looks like the same heater I used (and had little luck with). My cab is nowhere near as nice as yours - you may have more luck. I don't have an issue with power, the 4720 alt. is very capable of driving the heater with the other hardware running. I just have too much air exchange I think. This keeps fogging down, but makes things colder over all.

If you have a good sealed cab and get it warm inside, condensation/fogging will occur on cold surfaces with humid air. Warm air can hold more moisture than cold. So with a good, sealed cab either you need to heat the surfaces or have lots of outside air exchange/unit time to flush the added humidity (or get the inside so ridiculously hot you are coincidentally warming the windows above dew point...).

The wiring to my heater can be seen in a bag, barely visible, on the facing FEL mounting post below. The heater mounted on the floor near my right knee (not optimal either). The heater is long gone in the first image from 2014. The second shows the heater across the cab in its location. My cab gets quite warm w/o the heater, enough to drop the gloves and unzip my coat with weather in the 20's (F). Just being out of the snow and wind is a huge benefit!

DSCN5233.jpg With heater.jpg

Matt
 
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