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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious which is best. I have wheel weights but I don't have snow chains. Haven't tried either, however I'm slipping and sliding as I"m using the snowblower.

I'm looking at snow chains online however, I'm assuming I buy them according to the tire size (rear)

23x8.50-12

But then when you do a search on ebay another size comes up but then it will say "it also fits" and that number above shows up.

Thanks
 

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23x10.50x12 is what should be on the 318. Since thats the tire size, thats the size chains you want.

If you are running turf tires, you will want chains.
No matter what, you will also want wheel weights.
I would advise rear weights as well.

Ive been running a 318 and 49 thrower since it was new in 87. We always had 50# weights on the wheels, year round. We ran chains in the Winter and a weight box with roughly 150# in it. With that setup, it would never get stuck.
I currently run Tru Power ag tires, no chains, 70# starter weights on the wheels, and 168# on the rear 3-point.
That is not enough on ice.
With chains, you can run less weight, but they can mark up asphalt.
You will also get rust stains from the chains on your concrete in the garage if you park there.
Since my current area is pretty flat, no chains works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
23x10.50x12 is what should be on the 318. Since thats the tire size, thats the size chains you want.

If you are running turf tires, you will want chains.
No matter what, you will also want wheel weights.
I would advise rear weights as well.

Ive been running a 318 and 49 thrower since it was new in 87. We always had 50# weights on the wheels, year round. We ran chains in the Winter and a weight box with roughly 150# in it. With that setup, it would never get stuck.
I currently run Tru Power ag tires, no chains, 70# starter weights on the wheels, and 168# on the rear 3-point.
That is not enough on ice.
With chains, you can run less weight, but they can mark up asphalt.
You will also get rust stains from the chains on your concrete in the garage if you park there.
Since my current area is pretty flat, no chains works for me.
Wow,

So upon checking my tractor, for some reason the tires are 23x8.5-12. Looks like someone changed tham over before me. Now another question, does it make sense to bring the rear tires back to where they were before (23x10.5-12)?
 

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Wow,

So upon checking my tractor, for some reason the tires are 23x8.5-12. Looks like someone changed tham over before me. Now another question, does it make sense to bring the rear tires back to where they were before (23x10.5-12)?
I cant say for sure.
It would certainly help on turf the rest of the year, but not sure its worth spending money on new tires.
The other thing, youd have to make sure your wheels were correct too.
Usually, the 23x8.50x12 tires were on 7.5" rims, where the 23x10.50s were on 8.5" wheels.
Its possible someone owned it who owned several tractors, and they just put wheels/tires on it to sell it, maybe wanting to keep what was on it.
The 23x10.50 tires/wheels are fairly cheap because they are so common (used on everything 300 series from the 300 up to the 332, and some later 400 series too), so I might look into it before I ordered chains, but I probably wouldnt worry too much about it.
 

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If you do buy chains,, they MUST be "2 link" chains,, not "4 link"

The "2 link" refers to the spacing between cross chains,, so, a 2 link has almost twice as many cross chains,,

besides more traction, 2 link chains ride much smoother,,,:good2:
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I cant say for sure.
It would certainly help on turf the rest of the year, but not sure its worth spending money on new tires.
The other thing, youd have to make sure your wheels were correct too.
Usually, the 23x8.50x12 tires were on 7.5" rims, where the 23x10.50s were on 8.5" wheels.
Its possible someone owned it who owned several tractors, and they just put wheels/tires on it to sell it, maybe wanting to keep what was on it.
The 23x10.50 tires/wheels are fairly cheap because they are so common (used on everything 300 series from the 300 up to the 332, and some later 400 series too), so I might look into it before I ordered chains, but I probably wouldnt worry too much about it.
Is the 2nd number the height? if that's the case I can find out by just measuring the diameter of the rim.
 

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I’m not a fan of deflating tires to put on chains. I’ve seen many with broken belts from being aired up with chains that were to tight. It only takes a couple minutes to get them tight with air in the tires. Then bungee cords are all it takes to stay tight.

This is a pretty good video, except the air down.

How to properly put on tractor tire chains 2017 - YouTube
 
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Another vote for... You need both!

And extra weight on the back in addition to wheel weights if possible. I have chains, 200lbs of wheel weights, my fat ass (240lbs) and another 75lbs hanging on the 3 point hitch on my 316 when I run the snowblower.
 
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I run HDAPs on my 318 with the 49 blower, no chains, 100# of wheel weights. That works good. I've used chains in the past. Rust on the garage floor amost got me killed. Nothing works on ice like chains.
 

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I've got one 50 lb wheel weight on each side and 2-link chains on turf tires on my 316 and I haven't spun yet. Granted, my driveway is mostly flat, but even plowing 18" of wet heavy snow it did OK.
 

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Chains are out for me as I would not want to mark up our black top. First time I tried to plow this year was disappointing to say the least. After adding 160 lbs. on the back she really came alive. Also pumped up both front tires as one was real low. No trouble today in rather adverse conditions with freezing rain all afternoon on top of 3-4 inches of old snow.

KaObldabRWah%cYtXNP3Eg.jpg

Did a nice job that will be impossible tomorrow with much lower temps.

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If more snow falls and temps drop I have a backup plan.

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Try adding more weight.
 

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First year with my 77 HD 316 and 49" blower. I've kept my rear diy receiver weight bar and my 350lb weights. But still had no traction. The end of my driveway is up hill. So I got some 2 link chains they sell for 120$ ish. The center links have u hooks welded to the chains. This this JD will clear snow better then the plow on my road. On slush, deep snow. Frozen snow banks the grass... Cant stop this tractor with these chains now. Until you fall off the edge of the drive way and get hung up lol.
 

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First year with my 77 HD 316 and 49" blower. I've kept my rear diy receiver weight bar and my 350lb weights. But still had no traction. The end of my driveway is up hill. So I got some 2 link chains they sell for 120$ ish. The center links have u hooks welded to the chains. This this JD will clear snow better then the plow on my road. On slush, deep snow. Frozen snow banks the grass... Cant stop this tractor with these chains now.

Until you fall off the edge of the drive way and get hung up lol.
Rule #1 always use a designated driver while plowing. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Before I bought the right size equipment for our property, we picked up a used D110 mower and a 37" plow. I added 6 suitcase weights and chains - the thing became a tank. It could literally plow through about 20" of snow NO PROBLEM without getting stuck. I was so impressed with how well it plowed with weights AND chains that I wound up doing my 650' driveway, all around the out buildings, plus my neighbors' houses...

Before the chains...with my butt on the seat, it did OK. When the wife got on - not enough weight to get traction - so WEIGHT makes a huge difference. If you have an asphalt driveway I'd either change up my tires to something like Carlisle HD Field Trax or add a lot more weight. Check your tire pressure too...

The x749 being AWD, I haven't added any weight, but there are times in very deep snow (or wind-blown drifts I need to re-plow) where weights would help. I did get it stuck a few times and had to pull it out with the big Deere.
 

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Took the 420 with the 47" blower and 6 rear weights and the ag tires without the chains for a test spin, first snow this season and it was only about 3 inches. Didn't have a traction problem with the rear, but the front needs weight or better tires or both. With the blower on the ground it goes in a straight line very well.:good2:

Any suggestion on tire design to go with some wheel weights? Guess I overlooked the steering part of blowing snow.

Eric
 

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Took the 420 with the 47" blower and 6 rear weights and the ag tires without the chains for a test spin, first snow this season and it was only about 3 inches. Didn't have a traction problem with the rear, but the front needs weight or better tires or both. With the blower on the ground it goes in a straight line very well.:good2:

Any suggestion on tire design to go with some wheel weights? Guess I overlooked the steering part of blowing snow.

Eric
Use the turning brakes.
Wanna turn right? Turn wheel and press right brake.
Wanna turn left? Turn wheel and press left brake.
Your brakes need to be working and adjusted correctly for this though.

Tires do help too, but the only ones that will likely make a difference are the Vredestein V61s. Some guys use those little snowblower tires on the tractor, but with the weight of the front end, I doubt they would last long, if you could even get them in the correct size. I ran turfs on the front of my 318 for about 30 years before putting V61s on it. The difference in Winter was very noticeable. No tire will help if its icy though.
There were some small wheel weights for the 8" front wheels on some tractors, but they dont work all that well.

The trouble with a large blower like the 47 on a small garden tractor is weight. You need rear weight to keep the rear on the ground when its raised up, but you want a lot less when trying to actually use it.
The more you have hanging off the back, the less the front end effectively weighs.
This is one reason I prefer wheel weights and the 46 Snowthrower.

You might try 4 weights and see how that goes.
 
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EricJ

When I had the 47 snowblower on the 318, one fall before I hooked onto the blower, but after I had counterwighted the rear, I reached down and picked the front of the tractor off the ground. As IndianaJim put it, it is a fine balance to get the weight right to balance the front and back. One thing I learned was that if you want to turn, you can't crank the wheels over, they will just slide. You have to slowly turn the wheels, It is just easier to just pick up the blower slightly until the tractor is pointed in the direction you want it. But my 955 with MFWD has the same problem, although not to the same extent.

Dave
 

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Thanx guys, I was brake steering but with the blower on the ground it wants to kick the back out as much as it turns which is OK I guess but I was hoping for a bit better traction in the front. I looked for those V-61's and they do make them in my size, Simple tire has them ( Vredestein V61 Tires at SimpleTire.com ) so I'll give that a shot and see if I can find some wheel weights, or make some.
 
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