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I hope I am posting in the correct forum. If not MODs feel free to move.

My 8' Western Snow Plow (truck mounted) needs a new cutting edge. It's 1/2 x 6 x 96. I could not believe the price I was quoted, then they said there will be about $50 shipping to the store.

My question are they heat treated? Hardened? Would it be cheaper to buy a piece of hot rolled steel and add the holes myself?
 

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I've seen quite a few just go buy a chunk of steel and drill the holes...they seem to last pretty well. You're not plowing 150 miles a day....or are you? :laugh:
JH
 

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Zebrafive, I'm feel certain they are hardened but not 100% sure.
How much plowing are you doing?
What would the cost difference be?
 

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zebra five; any decent welding shops around u?? they (welding shop) should be able to punch ur plow bolt holes for u. I like square punched holes better then drilled ones, of course with drilled holes u could put locking nuts on too. cutting edges are just high priced for the most part--I guess because of the punched holes and the type of steel being used. how long did the orginal cutting edge last for u? maybe that will tell u why their so high dollar!! good luck, big jim
 

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Yes, they're heat treated and a high carbon steel. They're also expensive- don't know what you were quoted, but the 10' edge for my blade cost almost $300. Lot of money for a chunk of steel.

You could use a piece of mild flat bar, but it won't wear nearly as long. You may also have to buy it in a 20' stick if you go to a steel supplier, but at least then you'd have enough to make extras.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've seen quite a few just go buy a chunk of steel and drill the holes...they seem to last pretty well. You're not plowing 150 miles a day....or are you? :laugh:
JH
No where near that much!

Zebrafive, I'm feel certain they are hardened but not 100% sure.
How much plowing are you doing?
What would the cost difference be?
Only plow four drives now
I have not priced Hot Roll steel or having 8 square holes punched, but for factory $142, plus approx. $50 shipping, then sales tax, so just over $200

zebra five; any decent welding shops around u?? they (welding shop) should be able to punch ur plow bolt holes for u. I like square punched holes better then drilled ones, of course with drilled holes u could put locking nuts on too. cutting edges are just high priced for the most part--I guess because of the punched holes and the type of steel being used. how long did the orginal cutting edge last for u? maybe that will tell u why their so high dollar!! good luck, big jim
Western uses square holes and carriage bolts with lock nuts. I am guessing 15-20 years out of the first one. Maybe just pay the price :dunno:

Yes, they're heat treated and a high carbon steel. They're also expensive- don't know what you were quoted, but the 10' edge for my blade cost almost $300. Lot of money for a chunk of steel.

You could use a piece of mild flat bar, but it won't wear nearly as long. You may also have to buy it in a 20' stick if you go to a steel supplier, but at least then you'd have enough to make extras.
I have not priced Hot Roll, but would not want to buy a 20' length
 

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These cutting edges are said to be hardened but they are also using plastic cutting edges on some plows now so I would think a piece of mild steel would probably work for many years however if you have to pay to have square holes put in it it's probably not going to be any cheaper

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

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Well before you go and order a factory one price out the material and cutting at some place like Steel Center in So Ha, you might be surprised at the price even if you have to buy a 20' length, that way you would get 2 blades!
 

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I saw on an episode of MODERN MARVELS that snow plow scraping edges are also made from solid carbide. Talk about HARD! A quick Google shows no actual hardness spec but most companies claim ten to twenty times the life of the common hot rolled steel blades.

Another possibility for material would be T-1 abrasion resistant steel plate. Comes in 321 brinnel hardness, which is right at the point of still being able to drill with good sharp drills. Most common way of cutting is using abrasive blades, BIG abrasive blades. Also a 360 brinnel plate available. Too hard to work with common tooling. Abrasive saw/cut only and EDM holes.

Bottom line, you could backward engineer a blade that could cost your THOUSANDS of Dollars. I'd buy the factory edge!

I welded a 1/2" X2" mild steel bar to the bottom of my blade about 14-15 years ago. Flat side down. It doesn't scrape real well, but the bar is wore down to about a quarter inch thick now. I'm planning on welding a scraping edge on the blade next fall. I wore the original cutting edge too far down. The big heavy angle iron reinforcing the bottom edge of the blade was not actually touching the blade, was in fact 1/8"-3/16" away from the blade!
 

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I was going to suggest this yesterday, but along the lines of Powerstroke's comment, you could get a length of AR-400 or T1 and just weld it on in front of your existing cutting edge. You could get a good lap joint on top in the front and on the bottom in the back. We use both at work to reinforce and as wear bars on our excavator buckets. You can't really effectively drill either with common tools. (I've burnt a couple of mag drill cutters trying to drill AR-400... I kept the feed force on the drill as high as I could with out a cheater and it still work hardened on me.) Although if a guy was handy with a plasma cutter using the original cutting edge as a template square holes would be pretty easy and if kept neat enough would be covered up with the head of the carriage bolt. I have no idea what AR or T1 is going for right now...
 

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I run 5 boss v plows and we plow about 55 accounts. I usually make about 3 years on a cutting edge. When boss switched to a formed cutting edge about 10 years ago we compleatly stopped running shoes and let the weight of the plow ride compleatly on the cutting edge. I don't know what they are made of but they last a long time. More then double what the old ones would last. I'd say spend the 200 bucks and get the hardened one with the square holes. My cutting edges from boss for a 9,2 v plow is a little over 400 bucks
 

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Is your current blade reversible?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is your current blade reversible?
If you mean cutting edge, yes it is reversible. Holes are centered top to bottom. It has already been reversed.
I see the new part number has the same hole pattern left to right, but holes are not centered top to bottom.
If I were to buy a new style, I would start with the blade 2" higher than the old style. That would only be a problem if my skid shoes were too short until it wore down.
I think I would be able to get more wear out of a new style and not have to flip it. I am at about 3" width from original 6"
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What are the thoughts on using a snow plow cutting edge to bolt on the bottom of a bucket cutting edge, like John Deere does with their HD buckets?

Key 9
 

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Go talk to your local state or municipal maintance shop. I know we take off plow blades that still have a little life in them but won't last a storm plowing a Interstate. See how it lines up. We throw the in the scrap bin. They would last years for a homeowner.
I used an old scraper edge that I got from the county road commission's dumpster when I built the plow for my M. It may require a little work on your end, but free materials have a way of helping to boost your profit margin.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update: I found a seller, PPW, Professional Parts Warehouse that offered free shipping with a $200 order. So I ordered a cutting edge, attaching bolts/nuts, corner guides, spare hairpin clips, and a seal kit for my leaking lift cylinder. I was still $64 short of $200 so shipping showed $56. Then I added a 6.5' cutting edge for $70.50, that put me over $200 and made shipping free :yahoo:

I plan to Cut the 6.5' down to 75" and modify the square holes for #3 plow bolts and bolt it to the cutting edge of my 6415's loader bucket. I should be able to do this for less than 1/2 what JD parts wants for a bolt on cutting edge and hardware. Key # 9 in the drawing
 

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Just had a 1/2" X 3" X 58 1/2" wear bar cut from AR-400 for my snowblower. The original one was 5/16" thick
They had to flame cut it (too hard to shear) also had them hydro cut 20 oblong holes
Cost me less than the JD one
My drawing isn't fancy but you'll get the idea.
 

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Yesterday I ordered a new cutting edge from PPW. I also ordered the bolt kit for it. TODAY UPS delivered it about 2PM . Since the truck and plow are sitting in the pole barn, nice and dry, I decided to install the new cutting edge. :bigthumb:

Old one came off easy, I could have reused the old bolts, but since I had shiny new ones, I tossed them :bigthumb:. One thing I learned is the square holes have a taper to them. I put the cutting edge on and installed all the bolts and nuts, then tried to tighten the nuts and bolts spun :banghead:. So I had to take the cutting edge off, flip it over and reinstall all the bolts and nuts :banghead:. This time they all tightened up :yahoo:

I should be good for another 20 years of plowing before I need another cutting edge :yahoo:plow might rust out first or the truck
 

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Zebrafive, sounds like you have your fix.

I was going to suggest getting piece of CR steel, borium welding rod and put beads on your wear surfaces.
 
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