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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Does anyone here use the ballast box when plowing snow or I should ask, is it needed when plowing snow. I plow 330 feet of asphalt drive plus extras with the 1023.
 

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Same question but using 54 in front mount blower

I have a similar question that maybe could answer both my question and claudester. I will be snowblowing my private road with 54" front-mount snowblower using 2520 and was wondering if rear ballast will be needed, and if so how much weight. The dealer said I could get away without ballast but I am not so sure. So I wanted to check with the experts in this forum.

Thanks
 

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I have a similar question that maybe could answer both my question and claudester. I will be snowblowing my private road with 54" front-mount snowblower using 2520 and was wondering if rear ballast will be needed, and if so how much weight. The dealer said I could get away without ballast but I am not so sure. So I wanted to check with the experts in this forum.

Thanks
Hello Tiger,

I will provide my 2 cents as we also have a 2520 with the 47" front mounted snowblower. Obviously everyone's situation is different and may require different solutions. Do you have concrete/asphalt drive or stone? Do you have an incline on your drive? How much snow do you typically receive? What kind of tires do you have? etc, etc, etc.

We have a long drive (450 ft) of concrete and asphalt. We also have a pretty good incline/pitch in our drive and live in WI (so we get some pretty good snowfalls). We do use ballast. With that said, we have the FEL so I leave the ballast on all the time (except when using a RFM or box scraper). For our ballast, we have the HeavyHitch with 8 suitcase weights. I believe Omni Mfg (supporting vendor of this site) sells something similar. I have found on both our 2320 and 2520 (both with R4's), this to be sufficient for blowing snow. We also need to blow a path from the drive, around the garage and house to the barn in the back for getting hay to my bride's horses and again, this amount of ballast works well as I am blowing a path over grass.

IMHO you should have some ballast in the rear when using the front mounted snowblower. Do you need 600 to 800 lbs back there...I doubt it. Could you get away without it...sure, depending on your situation especially since you have R3's.

I attached an Excel spreadsheet so a person could run some crude #'s. If you chose 'No Loader', 'w/o iMatch', 'No Attachment' for the rear attachment and '7' front weights (approx 300 lbs, which is what I guess the blower with quick attachments to weigh), it shows you have more weight on the front and Rear Ballast is Recommended.

Wow, that certainly was a long winded reply and with all that said you could certainly try it without ballast. The MFWD definately helps but I believe you are going to have better results with some ballast. This doesn't even take into consideration the option of chains. Which even though it has been icy at times, we have not needed on our drive. Btw...if you find out you do need chains, don't forget to move your rear tires to the wide position but then again, you may have done that already.

I certainly hope this helps even though it was not that definitive.

Doug
 

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I use rear ballast with my plow, but not as much as with the loader. I built a Omni style hitch to hang suitcase weights from.
 

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I use wheel weights and chains with 1026r/54" blower. I cant see a 10xx plowing much snow without chains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I use wheel weights and chains with 1026r/54" blower. I cant see a 10xx plowing much snow without chains.
I'm just North of Green Bay, WI and have been using a Ford 8N with a back blade and never needed chains and was hoping that with the four wheel drive I wouldn't need any chains. The 8N did a great job but got rid of her for the JD 1023. We'll find out soon, won't we.
 

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I'm just North of Green Bay, WI and have been using a Ford 8N with a back blade and never needed chains and was hoping that with the four wheel drive I wouldn't need any chains. The 8N did a great job but got rid of her for the JD 1023. We'll find out soon, won't we.
A 8N is heavier. I am sure the 1023 will do fine with dry snow. Just dont see it doing well when we get 17" of wet snow on top of ice like we did late last winter. I had to use the dif lock a few times with the blower. Never came close to getting stuck,but did get some wheel spin at times.
 

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Does anyone here use the ballast box when plowing snow or I should ask, is it needed when plowing snow. I plow 330 feet of asphalt drive plus extras with the 1023.
With rear ballast on a one series, 54" quick hitch blade on the front, makes for a miserable experience. Since the one series has no steering brakes, maintaining a straight line with an angled blade is nearly impossible. Yes, even in float. For traction; wheel weights, rimguard, or chains would be your best bet. The whole quick hitch and blade assembly is light, less than 200 lbs., not enough to even notice on a 1500 lb tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With rear ballast on a one series, 54" quick hitch blade on the front, makes for a miserable experience. Since the one series has no steering brakes, maintaining a straight line with an angled blade is nearly impossible. Yes, even in float. For traction; wheel weights, rimguard, or chains would be your best bet. The whole quick hitch and blade assembly is light, less than 200 lbs., not enough to even notice on a 1500 lb tractor.
I sure hope it's not a miserable experience! I bought this tractor mainly for the snow and before buying i watched several videos of guys plowing with the 54" and doing a good job. If it doesn't, I'd probably would look for another 8N. Before the 8N and still, I have a ATV with a plow and that even did a good job but doesn't have the hydraulics and I think it only weighs about 600 lbs.
 

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Snow Plow

I have a long asphalt drive I use my 1026r with a front plow on. I have a rubber bottom edge made from conveyor belt and I don't use chains. This way, I only need to recoat the drive every 3 to 4 years. I had the same setup with my old X475. Now with the new 1026, and 4WD, it is even more easier to play,,,I mean plow the drive. COME ON SNOW!!!
KHOP:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a long asphalt drive I use my 1026r with a front plow on. I have a rubber bottom edge made from conveyor belt and I don't use chains. This way, I only need to recoat the drive every 3 to 4 years. I had the same setup with my old X475. Now with the new 1026, and 4WD, it is even more easier to play,,,I mean plow the drive. COME ON SNOW!!!
KHOP:lol:

Glad to hear that and the conveyor belt is a great idea. I'm due this next year for a re coat and it sure isn't getting any cheaper.
 

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I plow my 250' drive and ~500' entrance road with a 2003 Kawasaki Prairie 650 ATV with a 60" Warn Cyclone plow and power pivot. I have no isssues unless it is deep (over 1 foot) and really wet. Even then I just take smaller passes. I can't see a 1026, being much heavier, having any issues pushing with a smaller blade. I will be taking delivery of a 1026R TLB before the end of the year and will eventually fabricate a mount for my Warn blade or just use the loader if my ATV can't handle it. So I hope it doesn't have any issues.
 
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To move heavy snow with a 1023/1026 a snowblower is needed. They are great machines, but can not be expected to do the work of a full size tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To move heavy snow with a 1023/1026 a snowblower is needed. They are great machines, but can not be expected to do the work of a full size tractor.
As you know, we only got one heavy snowfall last year and on that one I couldn't move the snow with the 8N and had to start with the ATV with the plow. I do have a blower but haven't used it in years. I'm sure a blower on a tractor would work better in the very heavy snow but that's about it. The plow is much faster and usually less snow left on the surface. I did lawn care and snow removal for a school district for 22 years and prefer the plow.
 

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I sure hope it's not a miserable experience! I bought this tractor mainly for the snow and before buying i watched several videos of guys plowing with the 54" and doing a good job. If it doesn't, I'd probably would look for another 8N. Before the 8N and still, I have a ATV with a plow and that even did a good job but doesn't have the hydraulics and I think it only weighs about 600 lbs.
I think you may have missed the first three words of my reply to your question "With rear ballast". WITHOUT rear ballast, my 1026R is quite a snowplowing beast. However, an ATV definitely has a speed advantage. speed is more important for long distance drives, hydraulic control would be better for tight quarters. Good luck this winter! I just winterized my boat last night...
 

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What is ideal front to rear weight ratio?

Hello Tiger,

I will provide my 2 cents as we also have a 2520 with the 47" front mounted snowblower. Obviously everyone's situation is different and may require different solutions. Do you have concrete/asphalt drive or stone? Do you have an incline on your drive? How much snow do you typically receive? What kind of tires do you have? etc, etc, etc.

We have a long drive (450 ft) of concrete and asphalt. We also have a pretty good incline/pitch in our drive and live in WI (so we get some pretty good snowfalls). We do use ballast. With that said, we have the FEL so I leave the ballast on all the time (except when using a RFM or box scraper). For our ballast, we have the HeavyHitch with 8 suitcase weights. I believe Omni Mfg (supporting vendor of this site) sells something similar. I have found on both our 2320 and 2520 (both with R4's), this to be sufficient for blowing snow. We also need to blow a path from the drive, around the garage and house to the barn in the back for getting hay to my bride's horses and again, this amount of ballast works well as I am blowing a path over grass.

IMHO you should have some ballast in the rear when using the front mounted snowblower. Do you need 600 to 800 lbs back there...I doubt it. Could you get away without it...sure, depending on your situation especially since you have R3's.

I attached an Excel spreadsheet so a person could run some crude #'s. If you chose 'No Loader', 'w/o iMatch', 'No Attachment' for the rear attachment and '7' front weights (approx 300 lbs, which is what I guess the blower with quick attachments to weigh), it shows you have more weight on the front and Rear Ballast is Recommended.

Wow, that certainly was a long winded reply and with all that said you could certainly try it without ballast. The MFWD definately helps but I believe you are going to have better results with some ballast. This doesn't even take into consideration the option of chains. Which even though it has been icy at times, we have not needed on our drive. Btw...if you find out you do need chains, don't forget to move your rear tires to the wide position but then again, you may have done that already.

I certainly hope this helps even though it was not that definitive.

Doug
Thanks for the input, very informative. I have played around with the ballast calculator spreadsheet and also figure that rear ballast would be recommended with the front mount blower. But I am not sure what the recommend weight distribution is. Is it something like 60% - 40% front to rear. What do you think?
 

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claudester,
I would guess you will need the ballast box and chains. A lot of people will hang a lot of weight off the rear, so much so it makes the front light and it makes steering a challenge. I would start with the ballast box half full of stone/sand or what ever and adjust from there. Or better yet, whatever the plow weighs that is how much you should add to the box to start and again, adjust from there.
 

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When I have the frt blower on I either have the weight box on or rear blade , 90% of the time. Front blade most of the time no weight box or rear blade. Before getting the blower if we had a very deep snow I would put the weight box on, but that was about the only time.
Chains on usually frrom Thanksgiving week till March or April.
 

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Rear ballast for sure. You lose a lot of weight from the rear wheels when you add that weight up front. With my drive which is concrete I can blow the drive without ballast but if it gets glazed I am done and need the weight box.

I can only assume it would be worse with a blade since you as actually pushing the snow.

You will be happy with the machine as long as you have weight !
 

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FWIW, I plow lots of snow at an angle w/2WD GX garden tractor with both rubber and steel edges... "Diffferential Lock" engaged and it plows nice and straight. 4WD plus dif-lock equals my idea of a snow plow dream.
 
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