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H everyone! I hooked up my front mount snowblower to my 1025r. When I turn on my pto the main shaft drive has a wobble and its greater as I increase the rpms. It creates a vibration and noise.
I think it must be a universal joint. The wobble is still present when I disconnect the front pto to the blower. The shaft looks straight.
What should I look for in the joints that might cause this to happen? Any Ideas
 

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Hiya,

Mark one side of the shaft then disconnect the shaft and remove it from the tractor. Move each joint along each axis and feel for any resistance. Grease the joints and replace the shaft but place the mark you made on the opposite side, this way the shaft is 180 degrees from it's original index point, retest and see if the vibration is any better.

If the joints are stiff and they don't move free after you grease them, they may need replacing however, most of the front PTO shafts use set-in place caps that aren't easily serviced at home. A local driveshaft rebuild/repair shop should be able to help.

Another thing to check is the front joint of the intermediate shaft and the rear joint of the implement stub shaft are ~90 degrees apart, if they are in the same phase they can setup a sympathetic vibration.
 
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You have a number of things you can check....

Are you certain that the long PTO shaft is locked on to the spline on the transmission? Give it a tug to make sure it's locked on.

Check the 2 hex centered bearings that hold up the blower end of the shaft. I had one go bad. I replaced both... I used Federal-Mogul sealed bearings #HPS-100-GP.... It's so much smoother this year

I would think that you could tell if you have a bad u-joint by taking the shaft off, putting on the work bench and manipulating each joint. There should be no noticeable play or slop. While you're at it, grease everything.... Unless one was bad from new, I'd think it would be a long time before a u-joint went bad. The support bearings would go first, I'd think, the originals are only shielded, not sealed..

I suppose the long PTO shaft may have hit something and bent?. Got a long straight edge? Last year someone was talking about their shaft maybe being out of balance.???? I don't remember how that ended though...


Good luck.
 

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I guess the first question is, how many hours are on your snow blower?
If it doesn't have much usage on it, then it is doubtful there are any u-joint or bearing problems except maybe needing some grease.

In reality, the design of the mid PTO shaft that drives the snow blower has plenty of places to cause vibration or better said, torque speed change, especially with the blower lifted in the air.

It is sort of hard to understand but because of the two cardan oints, the driveshaft will actually have different speeds. This video shows how the speed surges.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IttUsogU4AQ

Does the SB shake once it is lowered to the ground?

This driveshaft arrangement has two cardan joints and two other u-joints. The shake that you see in the SB when it is lifted is simply caused by the torque of the drive line turning.

As long as all connection slip joints are together properly and all joints are greased well, the shake that occurs when the SB is lifted is going to be there. Not much you can do about it. :good2:
 
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Always do the easy stuff first. I would eliminate the blower as the issue since you have it uncoupled and it still vibrates. Straight edge the drive shaft for any bend or dents. Look at the carrier bearings for loose nuts on the six carriage bolts. Then check the two bearings for slop or oozing out grease indicating they are dry or shot. Last review the joints for loose or tight conditions. All My suggested checks is best with the drive shaft removed.

All of this is assuming it was functioning correctly prior to this episode.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Drive Shaft

Always do the easy stuff first. I would eliminate the blower as the issue since you have it uncoupled and it still vibrates. Straight edge the drive shaft for any bend or dents. Look at the carrier bearings for loose nuts on the six carriage bolts. Then check the two bearings for slop or oozing out grease indicating they are dry or shot. Last review the joints for loose or tight conditions. All My suggested checks is best with the drive shaft removed.

All of this is assuming it was functioning correctly prior to this episode.
It is a drive shaft problem. The joint at the spline that goes to the front bearing bracket assembly is bad. I maybe have used the blower 100 hours and have always greased the joints when mounting the snow blower in the fall. Also 1 bearing was rough on the front bracket. The kicker is my John Deere says It can't be repaired and I need to buy a whole new drive shaft. It is over $600.00 cdn That's a bummer!
Thanks everyone that helped!
 

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It is a drive shaft problem. The joint at the spline that goes to the front bearing bracket assembly is bad. I maybe have used the blower 100 hours and have always greased the joints when mounting the snow blower in the fall. Also 1 bearing was rough on the front bracket. The kicker is my John Deere says It can't be repaired and I need to buy a whole new drive shaft. It is over $600.00 cdn That's a bummer!
Thanks everyone that helped!
Hiya,

I would look up industrial driveshaft/PTO shaft repair shops in your area. Those guys have access to individual components for all types of shafts and joints as well as all the specialized tools to service them. Deere does not "make" the PTO shafts, they buy them from various suppliers, so right there you know that the parts are industry standard and available in the supply chain. (most likely Weasler, G&G or Cormer)
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Drive Shaft

Hiya,

I would look up industrial driveshaft/PTO shaft repair shops in your area. Those guys have access to individual components for all types of shafts and joints as well as all the specialized tools to service them. Deere does not "make" the PTO shafts, they buy them from various suppliers, so right there you know that the parts are industry standard and available in the supply chain. (most likely Weasler, G&G or Cormer)
Thanks! I need the shaft now and I am not in an urban area. I plan on keeping the old shaft and see if I can get it repaired at a pto shop and maybe keep that one as a spare or sell it if I can.
 
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