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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, just needs a little clarification I understand that many people modify the main sprocket to a 34 tooth sprocket. However, when looking through tractor supply they only sell a 30 tooth sprocket and a 36 tooth sprocket. My question is is it really worth to go for the 34 tooth sprocket or could I do a 30 tooth sprocket or would a 36 tooth sprocket be too slow?

I see a 34 tooth sprocket online however is going to take some time for it to come here. Thanks

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While you are attempting to modify, keep in mind, its a single stage thrower, not a two stage. If you are looking for 2 stage throwing distance, you wont get it out of a single stage.

Im not aware of anyone whose used a 34 tooth, but Im sure there are a few out there.
Im the one, or at leas the first to post about it anyway, that did some rudimentary calculations and lots of guesswork to come up with that years ago, and there are several posts on WFM about the sprocket sizes and what to use and what not to. The 34 is nothing more than an average basically, or rather a somewhat educated guess at the max stress youd want to put on that throwers gearbox and expect it to last.
I use the 36. It wasnt worth it to me to order a 2 tooth smaller sprocket for a marginal increase in distance.

Quite a few use the 36. Lots use a 32. I cant say anyone has used a 30, and I sure wouldnt recommend it, as you are going to not only be turning the auger MUCH faster than intended instead of a little, but you will also lose power in the process. The smaller sprocket takes more power to move the same amount of snow. This is one of the reasons for the 34 tooth "magic number".
There are very few places that carry them on the shelf locally. You are likely to find the 36 and maybe a 32.

Keep in mind, the gearbox is NOT cheap. Anything you do to increase auger speed increases stress on the gearbox. Going to far just increases the probability you will have a problem.

If you want to read more about it, head over to WFM and search 49 thrower sprocket and read away.
WFM used to be the go to place for info on any of the older Deere garden tractors, and still has tons of info. I dont keep up over there anymore so I cant say if its gotten back to where it used to be, but I seriously doubt it. Lots of us have moved on to other sites.
You will also likely come across a gearbox rebuild thread, also mine, that comes up from time to time when someone overdoes it with the sprocket size.
You may also find more threads about increasing throwing distance on the 49. The general consensus was that a tall chute was the best performance improvement, once you are sure the engine is running at the proper RPM.
 

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I agree with the points that Jim has made. The easiest way to gain throwing distance, once the correct RPM is determined, is through the longer chute. He also is realistic when he says that a single stage thrower will never have the throw distance of 2 stage blower.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree with the points that Jim has made. The easiest way to gain throwing distance, once the correct RPM is determined, is through the longer chute. He also is realistic when he says that a single stage thrower will never have the throw distance of 2 stage blower.

Dave
Thanks I've ordered a RPM meter. However my 49 snowblower does have a long chute. I believe the RPMs are correct however I'm going to double-check. I'm going to do the rubber flap modification to see that improve stains. This is abib the very first time using a snowblower and it was in wet snow so maybe that was the reason. If I knew that I would have got in the blade. I think a blaze better and wet snow and a blowers better in powder snow.

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Thanks I've ordered a RPM meter. However my 49 snowblower does have a long chute. I believe the RPMs are correct however I'm going to double-check. I'm going to do the rubber flap modification to see that improve stains. This is abib the very first time using a snowblower and it was in wet snow so maybe that was the reason. If I knew that I would have got in the blade. I think a blaze better and wet snow and a blowers better in powder snow.

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A 49 will handle anything in stock condition. It takes some technique, but that’s the fun of older equipment, it requires an operator. I had 8-12” of wet snow multiple times last year, and had minimal issues with a 49. A two stage chest freezer is more prone to clogging just because it has a big shelf to pile snow on. Run off from the street used to come down my driveway. For 9 years I have always had wet snow, and different snow removal equipment every year. I think the only blower I never clogged was a haban on a craftsman lt1000.

316 49
420 47
430 47
140 54
430 54
445 54
445 47 qh
420 46
322 49
X475 47qh

Going back a few decades
112 37

I did like Pam or silicone spray, then I found WD-40 PTFE (Teflon)
 

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I'm with rydpirs. I ran a "stock" 49...short chute... on my 314 for 35 years while in CT. Yeh, I had clogs...usually when I thought, 'I can go faster!'... Cooking spray, the cheapest you can find, helps, but WOT and ground speed are the most critical. The rubber flap mod will help in powder snow, but ground speed is the only thing that helps with wet snow...and you still may get clogs! Bob
 

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