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Discussion Starter #1
Got my first chance to blow snow today on my 2320 with 54" blower. Everything worked very well, what an upgrade over the X500 and foot lever lift 44" blower I've been using for years! The one thing that I'm worried about is that when I raise the blower all the way up with the PTO engaged it rattles almost like the small pto shaft on the blower is contacting the mount somewhere. I can't tell what's happening because I can't run the blower while I'm off the tractor. It doesn't seem normal, can anyone give me any ideas as to what might be happening and how I can fix it? BTW, what RPM do you usually run the blower at? Same as rear PTO?

Thank you in advance.
 

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With the blower fully raised the implement driveshaft u-joints are binding causing the noise you're hearing. Don't raise it all the way up with the PTO engaged. If you lower it until the noise dissipates you'll get a better feel for maximum raised height.

Run the snowblower at 2500 to 3000 / PTO rated speed for best results.

Have fun! :thumbup1gif:
 

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It's normal. My 54" blower does the same thing. I try to not raise it fully if I leave it engaged.

As for RPM... run the engine so the tach is at the little "PTO" symbol, which for the front is 2000 PTO RPM. No clogs that way.
 
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Yeah, PTO RPM or WOT for me. :thumbup1gif:

Yup, full up with PTO engaged, bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well that was going great until the drive chain snapped.....:banghead: I hit something and then no snow. Looked over the snowblower, all three shear bolts are in place. I look at the PTO shaft and see the chain hanging. :banghead: I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Question is, why didn't the shear bolts snap instead of the chain snapping?? After inspecting, it was a landscaping brick that I hit. I'd like to take a sledgehammer to it.

Has anyone replaced one of these before? it doesn't look too bad to replace. The part number is AM121965 for the roller chain I can't find anywhere what size chain it is.
 

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Has anyone replaced one of these before? it doesn't look too bad to replace. The part number is AM121965 for the roller chain I can't find anywhere what size chain it is.
Here is the detail from JD Parts:

AM121965.jpg

The replacement is around $15. It's not too bad to replace. Loosen the tensioning bolts to take out all the slack and it should slip right off.
 

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Well that was going great until the drive chain snapped.....:banghead: I hit something and then no snow. Looked over the snowblower, all three shear bolts are in place. I look at the PTO shaft and see the chain hanging. :banghead: I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Question is, why didn't the shear bolts snap instead of the chain snapping?? After inspecting, it was a landscaping brick that I hit. I'd like to take a sledgehammer to it.

Has anyone replaced one of these before? it doesn't look too bad to replace. The part number is AM121965 for the roller chain I can't find anywhere what size chain it is.
It's a #40 pitch chain. You can get a length at an industrial supply shop. Take the old chain with you to match it up. Make sure to pick-up a master link with the chain. IF you're stuck let me know. I have a new, spare chain on the shelf. I'll send it and you can replace it to me when you have a chance. The OE chain does not have a master link. You'll have to remove the drive sprocket shaft to install it. Here's a photo.

47-54 SB Drive.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #9
It's a #40 pitch chain. You can get a length at an industrial supply shop. Take the old chain with you to match it up. Make sure to pick-up a master link with the chain. IF you're stuck let me know. I have a new, spare chain on the shelf. I'll send it and you can replace it to me when you have a chance. The OE chain does not have a master link. You'll have to remove the drive sprocket shaft to install it. Here's a photo.

View attachment 106961
Thank you. There is a JD dealer not far away that has a good inventory of parts. I'd be surprised if they don't have it. A friend of mine also has an entire cabinet of all sizes of chain in his shop so if the dealer doesn't have it I'll stop by the shop. Removing the drive sprocket looks scary.
 

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Thank you. There is a JD dealer not far away that has a good inventory of parts. I'd be surprised if they don't have it. A friend of mine also has an entire cabinet of all sizes of chain in his shop so if the dealer doesn't have it I'll stop by the shop. Removing the drive sprocket looks scary.
Removing the drive sprocket is fairly straightforward. If you already have the SB disconnected just roll it forward and stand it drive end up. Makes everything easier to get at. A replacement chain with a master link can easily be installed without disassembly. The OEM replacement chain will require a bit of disassembly.
 
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Why are you removing the sprockets? :unknown: The chain should be fed over them without removal. What am I missing?
 

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Why are you removing the sprockets? :unknown: The chain should be fed over them without removal. What am I missing?
Randy,

The OEM chain doesn't have a master link so it can't be separated and "fed" around the sprockets. The drive sprocket is captured between the pinion shaft bearings.

Frank
 

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Randy,

The OEM chain doesn't have a master link so it can't be separated and "fed" around the sprockets. The drive sprocket is captured between the pinion shaft bearings.

Frank
Thanks Frank, wasn't considering installing the new chain without a master. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Most old motorcycle guys have a chain breaker in their toolbox. I have a couple of spare #40 master links on hand. If need be I can either repair a broken chain or modify the new spare chain for fast & easy installation without disassembly. Master links are easily sourced at most hardware stores.

40 master link.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just called the dealer. They have new chains in stock but said they could repair the old one too and have master links to make it easy to reinstall. I'll be heading down there this afternoon after work and also will be replacing all of the shear bolts as they should have failed before the chain. Hopefully this all goes smoothly.
 

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Success. Went to the dealer and they sold me a new chain and put a master link in it for me. The old chain was completely toast. Looked like it had never seen any kind of lube. I bought a can of liquid film while I was there and gave the new chain a good dose of it once it was on. Took off the blower and put the chain on with one slight problem. The new chain was one link too short. I loosened the bolts on the tensioner and moved it to make the chain fit. Put it all back on and it works like new.

Thanks for all the help. As a newbie to compact tractors it's extremely helpful to have the collective knowledge of this site and people who are always willing to help!
 

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Success. Went to the dealer and they sold me a new chain and put a master link in it for me. The old chain was completely toast. Looked like it had never seen any kind of lube. I bought a can of liquid film while I was there and gave the new chain a good dose of it once it was on. Took off the blower and put the chain on with one slight problem. The new chain was one link too short. I loosened the bolts on the tensioner and moved it to make the chain fit. Put it all back on and it works like new.

Thanks for all the help. As a newbie to compact tractors it's extremely helpful to have the collective knowledge of this site and people who are always willing to help!
Great! That old chain was most likely stretched accounting for the problem with length. The bracket must have been previously adjusted to remove the slack.

Keep it lubed!:thumbup1gif:
 
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The rattling is because the drive shaft is too long, when raised all the way up it contacts the yoke. We went through a couple of yokes and u-joints before figuring it out. If you cut approximately 1" from the driveshaft the problem is solved. Depending on how much you use the blower you will be buying yokes and u-joints if you raise it all the way up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The rattling is because the drive shaft is too long, when raised all the way up it contacts the yoke. We went through a couple of yokes and u-joints before figuring it out. If you cut approximately 1" from the driveshaft the problem is solved. Depending on how much you use the blower you will be buying yokes and u-joints if you raise it all the way up.
Where do you cut it? At the very front before the groove where the pto shaft locks?
 

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Drive shaft

I am wondering if the right drive shaft is on the unit. If you cut it then the lock will not work to hold the shaft in the sleeve. That may cause a out of sink when you put it back together.

Check your part number on the shaft and make sure it is the right one. Also wondering if the under belly drive shaft is the wrong length as if I am right there are many different lengths for those but the ends look the same.

Would not cut the shaft until your very sure. Put the tractor on a couple of 2x4s to raise the front off the ground and take a hack saw or file and nick the inner shaft with the blower in float. Then raise it and mark it once again. Then remove it. Slide the shaft in and out and see if you can see the marks or not. If it bottoms out and you can not see the raise mar then it is not bottoming out. IF the mark is still visible then you have the wrong shaft or a mounting issue on the adapter carrier

That is what I would do before cutting anything. If I remember Deere made many different shafts for everything from the 18 and up with the QA front ends. So a shaft mix up maybe very likely. Last resort would be cutting the inner square shaft.You can tell by how much as to how much space is between the mark and the outer sleeve.

I just made a spelling correction and thought of something else. Are the yolks in sink Randy will know for sure but I think the yolks lay in the same plan not 180 from each other. Randy correct me if I am wrong
 
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