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I just came in from clearing my 1/3 mile gravel driveway. I use a 2305 with the 54" blower. I need to do something with the blower. It plugs constantly with wet snow and only throws the snow a few feet. Very underwhelming. My dads old simplicity single stage throws snow much further. I am thinking of going to the steel impeller hoping for increased performance. Where is the best place to get the steel impeller? Is there anything else I can do to increase the throw distance?
 

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I just came in from clearing my 1/3 mile gravel driveway. I use a 2305 with the 54" blower. I need to do something with the blower. It plugs constantly with wet snow and only throws the snow a few feet. Very underwhelming. My dads old simplicity single stage throws snow much further. I am thinking of going to the steel impeller hoping for increased performance. Where is the best place to get the steel impeller? Is there anything else I can do to increase the throw distance?

Does the snow load bog the engine down?

How deep is the snow you are clearing?

I am afraid the steel impeller isn't going to be the total solution. It should improve performance, but It won't solve all your problems.

Are you able to keep moving forward or is it start and stop continuously?

Are both augers working on the front of the blower? Often when it's plugging it's because one of the shear pins is broke......

One thing about dealing with snow, whether it's plowing or blowing, the conditions have a lot to do with the performance and results of the machine. Just like trimming 3" off a nice clean and dry lawn is one style of cutting grass with a set of results while trying to mow 8" of wet grass is a totally different experience and outcome, same with clearing snow. Sometimes, the conditions just suck and you have to do the best you can.

How long have you had this machine and how many times have you used it to blow snow?
 

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I think some have added rubber edges to the impeller to better seal it to the housing.


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I personally think the impeller needs some clearance to create air flow / suction to help draw the snow up and throw it out of the chute. It functions more like a paddle wheel on a river boat than the impeller in a super charger, because it's moving solid matter and not just air.

If all of the other factors with the machine are correct, like both augers are working, the tractor can handle the load, the engine is running correct, air cleaner is allowing max air flow into the engine, etc., etc., etc., then maybe make an auger change.

I am afraid if it plugs now, it's more due to the density and weight of the snow and adding rubber flaps on the impeller might add loads on the machine causing other problems......like breaking chains and putting stress on the gears.........
 

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Does the snow load bog the engine down?

How deep is the snow you are clearing?

I am afraid the steel impeller isn't going to be the total solution. It should improve performance, but It won't solve all your problems.

Are you able to keep moving forward or is it start and stop continuously?

Are both augers working on the front of the blower? Often when it's plugging it's because one of the shear pins is broke......


One thing about dealing with snow, whether it's plowing or blowing, the conditions have a lot to do with the performance and results of the machine. Just like trimming 3" off a nice clean and dry lawn is one style of cutting grass with a set of results while trying to mow 8" of wet grass is a totally different experience and outcome, same with clearing snow. Sometimes, the conditions just suck and you have to do the best you can.

How long have you had this machine and how many times have you used it to blow snow?
I'd echo SulleyBear's conclusion. When I experience trouble with the chute plugging, it is because an auger sheer bolt has snapped.

The left and right sections of the auger are independent units, each with separate sheer bolts. So you can snap one and the other still functions. They're easy to check, with the machine off, they should be difficult, near impossible, to rotate each side by hand. It one side spins easily and independent of the other, you snapped a sheer bolt. There are extra sheer bolts bolted in a row on the back side of the blower (1/4 x 1" bolt with nylock nut, grade 5 if memory serves me correctly.)
 
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Are you running the tractor engine at full PTO speed?

I have the 54" blower on my 2720 and I have never experienced any clogging even when blowing that water-laden slush that lays along side of the road. I do have the steel impeller installed on mine and always run at full engine PTO speed.
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Snow was 4" deep very wet heavy snow. I know this isn't ideal for snowblowing but I have never been happy with the 54" blowers performance. Like I mentioned I just used my dads single stage simplicity blower on his garden tractor and it blows the snow 4X as far and zero blockage. To explain my conditions I have a 1/3 mile gravel driveway that I can go from one end to the other. I should be able to go without stopping but the blower clogs on the discharge every 30-50 feet. Engine doesn't "bog" during blowing. Pretty much useless as a snowblower. I ended up using the back blade the last few storms. I am thinking about going to the steel impeller and then adding the rubber between blade tips and fan housing to get a better seal. I need to do something since this blower with its current performance is pretty useless.
 

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Have you treated the impeller, throat and chute with silicone spray? That's a fairly simple fix that may make a difference. Sully Bear also posted some good advice here. Good luck

Dave
 
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The plastic impellers are a terrible design but most of the issue is the gap between the blades and the housing. I put the rubber flaps on mine and made a big difference. I then made a whole new impeller based on the one in my old gravely blower which would throw the snow twice as far as my 54 JD. I only had the chance to try it one time but it’s a big Improvement.

You can see what I did in the metalworking and fabrication section and also have a pic of the plastic impeller with the flaps on to give you an idea

54" snowblower impeller build
 

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Are you running at PTO rated speed? On your 2305 this should be around 3000-3200 RPM. Other than that then I'd recommend the steel impeller / fan as it offers a significant improvement over the plastic version especially with heavy, wet snow.
 

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I'd recommend a 54" blade and use the 54" snowblower in deeper snow only, which we rarely get in our part of the country. Snowblowers are just not that good in shallow, wet, slushy snow.

I know many say the steel impeller makes the difference, although i cannot wrap my head around what the impeller is made out of has anything to do with momentum.

I wouldn't waste the money on changing over to a steel impeller, I would take that money and buy a 54" blade and your problems are solved. Oh yea, you will need an angle cylinder kit also.
 

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My blower will clog with super wet snow too. I only use the blower occasionally because the blade is typically so much faster.


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My blower will clog with super wet snow too. I only use the blower occasionally because the blade is typically so much faster.


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My 54" snow blower is an expensive monument that sits in the garage. I always use my 54" blade and then for final clean up, I sweep my paved driveway with my broom. Heck, if the snow is only 2 or 3", I just use the broom.

Now, this slushy stuff we got in the lower Susquehanna Valley of PA on Sat into Sun was too much to broom only so I used the blade and then got it spotless with the broom.

Do it over again, I wouldn't have bought the 54" snowblower. We just do not get enough deep snow in our part of the country to make it worth it!!
 

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I always run at the pto speed. Anyone know where I can find the best price on the steel impeller?
http://greenfarmparts.com

I checked a few weeks ago and the steel impeller was $323.00, I believe. You'll receive a 7% discount with the coupon/promo code of "GTT".
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the info. I know many feel the snow plow is better option but in my situation I don’t feel it is the better option. I have a 1/3 mile drive with banks on both side for 1/2 length and then along field edge that drifts bad. I like the idea of a blower just this one seems to under perform.
 

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Thanks for all the info. I know many feel the snow plow is better option but in my situation I don’t feel it is the better option. I have a 1/3 mile drive with banks on both side for 1/2 length and then along field edge that drifts bad. I like the idea of a blower just this one seems to under perform.
I'm wondering if your PTO clutch could be slipping...? How many hours on the machine? Low hydraulic pressure, a partially clogged suction screen or restricted solenoid could affect the PTO clutch clamping pressure and allow it to slip. Hopefully it's not a worn PTO clutch.

PTO Clutch:

2305 PTO clutch.jpg

Suction Screen / Strainer, #11:

2305 suction strainer 11.jpg

PTO Solenoid, #52:

2305 PTO solenoid 52.jpg
 
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I'd recommend a 54" blade and use the 54" snowblower in deeper snow only, which we rarely get in our part of the country. Snowblowers are just not that good in shallow, wet, slushy snow.

I know many say the steel impeller makes the difference, although i cannot wrap my head around what the impeller is made out of has anything to do with momentum.

I wouldn't waste the money on changing over to a steel impeller, I would take that money and buy a 54" blade and your problems are solved. Oh yea, you will need an angle cylinder kit also.
The design of the steel impeller is totally different than the plastic one. The plastic impeller just has three flat smooth blades whereas the steel impeller has three blades that are curved at the end to form little "scoops". If you look at virtually every 2-stage 3PH (and other) snow blower ever made the impellers have the tips bent like little scoops.

Below are a few examples from a quick Google search... (notice any similarities?)



Here is the steel impeller from the JD blower:



And then we have the plastic impeller. Unfortunately, those gussets you see are on the BACK side of each blade. The throwing side of the blades are completely flat.





So it's not so much the material it is made of as much as it is a design issue. The plastic impeller is a BAD design. It's the only flat impeller I have ever seen.
 

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I'd recommend a 54" blade and use the 54" snowblower in deeper snow only, which we rarely get in our part of the country. Snowblowers are just not that good in shallow, wet, slushy snow.

I wouldn't waste the money on changing over to a steel impeller, I would take that money and buy a 54" blade and your problems are solved. Oh yea, you will need an angle cylinder kit also.
I won't argue that in many cases the rear blade is a better tool for the job but I would never want to be without the snowblower. I keep the 54" on the front and a 5-foot blade on the back.

Here in PA we get walloped just often enough that you really should have a blower when needed. Sure, during a SnowPocalypse you can go out every 2 hours and plow with the storm but that gets old fast and it some cases you aren't around to do that. I prefer to wait until it is all over and go out and clean up once. Although two years ago when we got that 28+ inches with 4-foot drifts that almost got me in trouble because the snow was almost too deep for me to walk to the shed to get the tractor and blower. And if you didn't have the foresight to have the tractor pointed OUTWARD then you were in for some shoveling. :)

While a hydraulic angle cylinder is nice on a rear blade it certainly isn't necessary to be effective. I plowed with a manual blade on the back of my old Ford 9N for over 18 years.
 
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