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I wonder if it would work to remove clear or silver anodizing from aluminum prior to having it anodized red or blue like Aeroquip fittings.

I assume that all it would need for cleanup is water.
 

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Good question, I'll post it on HAMB, if there is an answer they will have it. I believe all that is used to "clean" it is compressed air. Using water might lead to rust, course freashly sand blasted metal often starts rusting because of moisture in air anyway. I'll ask about what is used to clean soda residue with too.
Okay, got some answers for you. No one has responded yet on the soda removing the anodizing, but one guy says oven-cleaner will do it. Another says he uses dawn liquid soap detergent and water to remove the residue. I'll post more as time prrogresses and more answers appear.
Clear or silver, probably. Type 1 and 2 anodize is in my opinion mostly cosmetic and doesn't stand up to much abuse. You will likely still end up with some of the oxide layer which penetrated into the aluminum from the initial anodize process but your parts will likely take an additional anodize. I speculate the colors may be off though.

If you are trying to blast off a type 3 with dichromate seal (dark green to black in color), probably not. If properly done, the anodize should hold up to a fair degree of soda blasting. The only way i know off to completely remove anodizing is via chemical methods.
Hey all, thought I'd simply post the link to the Jalopy Journal question I asked on this, rather than keep reporting back on what they are saying:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568508#post6314222

Also, there's quite a good thread on Soda Blasting over on metalmeet.com. Apparently DuPont won't honor any paint job that was done with their paint if it was put on over a soda blasted job:

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6307&highlight=soda+blasting
Thanks! Actually the aluminum parts are for a drafting table I'm restoring. It's tractor related as I want to put prints of my designs on it to reference from while CAD'ing up revisions, etc.

I got the Hamilton electric lift drafting table on CL for $100 and the brand is no longer made. A new one from Mayline would be around $2,500. The table was owned by a literal starving arteest and he made a mess of the pencil tray with paint splatters and the like. The anodizer won't remove the paint splatters, and I'm hearing that glass beads are the most gentle method to getting the splatters and crud off. It seems like soda would be even kinder to the aluminum. There are enough convolutions, nooks and crannies in the aluminum parts that sanding them is impractical. My other alternative is powder coating; but I think anodized trim pieces would look cool.

Thanks for all the replies everyone.
 

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That's a thought Dellwas about checking out other forums. I really hadn't thought about doing that for lack of having much to contribute.

I never heard of AirCraft stripper; but it makes sense the aviation industry would have some good stuff since aluminum is such a widely used material.
 

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Dave:

Where do you get the aircraft grade stripper as I doubt Home Despot will carry something like that?

I've tried laquer thinner, mineral spirits, MEK, acetone, denatured alcohol, and naptha on those paint splatters with no luck. They're pretty darn old.
 

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Thanks D & D (Dellwas & Dave).
 
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