It's great for sheet metal as it won't heat it enough to warp. Couple of drawbacks though, according to what I've read on some metal & tool forums, most notable being the HAMB (www.jalopyjournal.com). It will leave a residue that can cause paint bonding issues, if not removed, and it will only remove light surface rust, it won't touch heavily rusted surfaces.
Soda Blasting
Interesting video:
http://www.mefeedia.com/video/30316393
A "kinder, gentler sand blaster" ? Not sure if this would be a win compared to a nylon or brass brush other than getting into cracks better.
Here's where you get your soda:
50# Medium Grade AMEX Soda Blast Media
But hey, it's something different. :unknown:
Pete
http://www.mefeedia.com/video/30316393
A "kinder, gentler sand blaster" ? Not sure if this would be a win compared to a nylon or brass brush other than getting into cracks better.
Here's where you get your soda:
50# Medium Grade AMEX Soda Blast Media
But hey, it's something different. :unknown:
Pete
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Good question, I'll post it on HAMB, if there is an answer they will have it. I believe all that is used to "clean" it is compressed air. Using water might lead to rust, course freashly sand blasted metal often starts rusting because of moisture in air anyway. I'll ask about what is used to clean soda residue with too.
I wonder if it would work to remove clear or silver anodizing from aluminum prior to having it anodized red or blue like Aeroquip fittings.
I assume that all it would need for cleanup is water.
Okay, got some answers for you. No one has responded yet on the soda removing the anodizing, but one guy says oven-cleaner will do it. Another says he uses dawn liquid soap detergent and water to remove the residue. I'll post more as time prrogresses and more answers appear.
I wonder if it would work to remove clear or silver anodizing from aluminum prior to having it anodized red or blue like Aeroquip fittings.
I assume that all it would need for cleanup is water.
No problem Pete. I do know it's the cat's a** for softer metals such as aluminum, and for sheet metal because it won't warp it.
Dellwas, tnx for helping to figure out the down side. The up side looked like a quick and cheap way to clean something. It's a nice step between nothing and a Kenny-Klass sand blasting chamber.
Pete
Big thing though, according to what I've read, is that it won't touch heavy rust. I assume the tiller is rusty?
I considered/am considering Soda Blasting my Tiller actually..biggest claim to fame i've heard for Soda in my book (in addition to the ones already listed) is the ability to blast things that are assembled....For example, my tiller...no way would you want to try that with sand as the sand would destroy the seals and work its way into every bearing & gear/chain box there is. With soda all you need to do is flush the oil and refil with new and pump a few new shots of grease into every bearing after you paint it.
Should take it off if it's only surface. Where you going to get the pot from? Also, Eastwood makes a kit that you can use with a regular sand blaster http://www.eastwood.com/soda-blasting-retro-fit-kit.html
That was my concern too...its not TOOO bad, as you can see in this pic, the top side is "paint free" :lol: but the rest isnt to bad at all. Its rusty, but I wouldnt say its heavy rust...alot of surface rust is how i'd describe it.
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I hear ya, wouldn't be so bad if you had other projects in mind.
I actually have to strip my F-350 this summer and paint it. IF I get the time to finish plumming on my compressor. Got one drop now, but have to put a dessicant filter in, tried sand blasting last summer and it kept clogging, too much moisture in the lines, despite the run being at least 20 feet away from the compressor. Compressor is quite big though, put out 31 CFM...
Too many things to do, retirement can't come fast enough...
I actually have to strip my F-350 this summer and paint it. IF I get the time to finish plumming on my compressor. Got one drop now, but have to put a dessicant filter in, tried sand blasting last summer and it kept clogging, too much moisture in the lines, despite the run being at least 20 feet away from the compressor. Compressor is quite big though, put out 31 CFM...
Too many things to do, retirement can't come fast enough...
Guy 20 miles north of me offers both on site and at his site blasting...part of the reason of blasting in the first place is I really dont feel like doing it myself to begin with.
Between Compressor/Tools/Media/Time Sand or Soda blasting that IMO isnt worth DIY.
Hey all, thought I'd simply post the link to the Jalopy Journal question I asked on this, rather than keep reporting back on what they are saying:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568508#post6314222
Also, there's quite a good thread on Soda Blasting over on metalmeet.com. Apparently DuPont won't honor any paint job that was done with their paint if it was put on over a soda blasted job:
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6307&highlight=soda+blasting
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568508#post6314222
Also, there's quite a good thread on Soda Blasting over on metalmeet.com. Apparently DuPont won't honor any paint job that was done with their paint if it was put on over a soda blasted job:
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6307&highlight=soda+blasting
Why not pop on over to jalopyjournal.com, or metalmeet.com, join up and post on what you are planning on doing. Both sites have a wealth of information, and knowledgable users who, I'm sure, could give some valuable tips on what you are planning on doing. Another good site is garagejournal.com.
Thanks! Actually the aluminum parts are for a drafting table I'm restoring. It's tractor related as I want to put prints of my designs on it to reference from while CAD'ing up revisions, etc.
I got the Hamilton electric lift drafting table on CL for $100 and the brand is no longer made. A new one from Mayline would be around $2,500. The table was owned by a literal starving arteest and he made a mess of the pencil tray with paint splatters and the like. The anodizer won't remove the paint splatters, and I'm hearing that glass beads are the most gentle method to getting the splatters and crud off. It seems like soda would be even kinder to the aluminum. There are enough convolutions, nooks and crannies in the aluminum parts that sanding them is impractical. My other alternative is powder coating; but I think anodized trim pieces would look cool.
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
You seem to be contributing here just fine :thumbup1gif: I must be on 30 or so but some I just lurk on. Everything from CB Radio to chainsaws, can't beat 'em for info!
That's a thought Dellwas about checking out other forums. I really hadn't thought about doing that for lack of having much to contribute.
I never heard of AirCraft stripper; but it makes sense the aviation industry would have some good stuff since aluminum is such a widely used material.
Have you tried paint stripper?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=paint+stripper&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=paint+stripper&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Dave:
Where do you get the aircraft grade stripper as I doubt Home Despot will carry something like that?
I've tried laquer thinner, mineral spirits, MEK, acetone, denatured alcohol, and naptha on those paint splatters with no luck. They're pretty darn old.
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