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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I would ask since I’m betting someone here knows how to read this!

So I had my soil tested that I want to start as a garden this year. To me the formatting is messed up as those two 0s shouldn’t be on their own lines...and should be up in the appropriate columns.

I’m guessing that the data there (3, 1 and 75) may belong to phosphorus, potash and lime....I emailed them to clarify....but I’m guessing someone here will be able to figure it out lol.

So if my assumptions are correct: how do I fertilize my garden? Lime seems pretty obvious: I’d need 75 pounds per 1,000 sq ft of soil. Phosphorus and potash....not so obvious to me....can I get a fertilizer with that ratio of phosphorus/potash? As spreading 1 pound of potash per 1000 sq ft seems like that would be a bit difficult lol.




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You probably aren't going to find a product sitting on the shelf with the exact mixture you need. You can buy phosphorous or potash at most farm/feed stores, ACE Hardware, Lowe's HD, etc.. I'm pretty sure you could buy either off of Amazon if you wanted to. I'm pretty sure you can also find potash on a liquid form that you could apply with a hose sprayer. That might make it easier to get it applied evenly. (If you go looking for potash you may get strange looks. It's just potassium. Ask for potassium citrate or potassium sulfate.)

If you have an actual fertilizer mill available you can go in and ask them to mix what you need and tell them how many sq ft you need to cover and they can do a custom mix for you.
 

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looks very different from what i get from Missouri Extension on fields that i am used to........but it appears simple to read....in that it is giving your #s per thousand sq ft of fertilizer application

as i read it you would need a fertilzer in the ratio of 0-3-1 ......and 75# lime per 1000sq/ft (i see they dont list the lime strength)

fyi .....one acre is 43560 sq/ft

fyi .....when you buy bagged fertilizer it is figured per 100# IE ...a 10-10-10 fertilizer will apply 10# of each nutrient per 100# of fertilizer used......so if you buy a 50# bag your only getting 5# of each ...hopefully that makes sense

will be hard to find fertilizer with 0 nitrogen (first number) because that is what is important for growing grass in yards

attached for reference one of mine from last year for a field
780755
 

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Looks to me like the form and the results and recommendations entered do not line up, making it hard to decipher the recommendations.

The N-P-K recommendations look like a 0-3-1 fertilizer recommendation. The pH at 5.8 is slightly acidic, but as it looks like you are growing vegetables, they should do fine at that pH. Which makes me think that the 75 lb lime recommendation is not lined up right on the form.

Looking at the form, the 75 listed near LIME has two zeroes beneath it, which makes me think the results got wrapped around into new lines, 75, 0, and 0. Which would make the lime recommendation zero, and the zinc recommendation 75, which is really confusing. And the " ) " that should be right after P2O3 has also kicked down a line.

I think it's worth a call to the lab to clarify which number goes with which heading, rather than guessing.
 

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Looks to me like the form and the results and recommendations entered do not line up, making it hard to decipher the recommendations.

The N-P-K recommendations look like a 0-3-1 fertilizer recommendation. The pH at 5.8 is slightly acidic, but as it looks like you are growing vegetables, they should do fine at that pH. Which makes me think that the 75 lb lime recommendation is not lined up right on the form.

Looking at the form, the 75 listed near LIME has two zeroes beneath it, which makes me think the results got wrapped around into new lines, 75, 0, and 0. Which would make the lime recommendation zero, and the zinc recommendation 75, which is really confusing. And the " ) " that should be right after P2O3 has also kicked down a line.

I think it's worth a call to the lab to clarify which number goes with which heading, rather than guessing.
i agree i would call them to verify #s
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks to me like the form and the results and recommendations entered do not line up, making it hard to decipher the recommendations.

The N-P-K recommendations look like a 0-3-1 fertilizer recommendation. The pH at 5.8 is slightly acidic, but as it looks like you are growing vegetables, they should do fine at that pH. Which makes me think that the 75 lb lime recommendation is not lined up right on the form.

Looking at the form, the 75 listed near LIME has two zeroes beneath it, which makes me think the results got wrapped around into new lines, 75, 0, and 0. Which would make the lime recommendation zero, and the zinc recommendation 75, which is really confusing. And the " ) " that should be right after P2O3 has also kicked down a line.

I think it's worth a call to the lab to clarify which number goes with which heading, rather than guessing.
Ok good to know it wasn’t just me having issues! I emailed them last week to let them know the formatting is messed up. I’m hoping to hear from them this week. Need to get clarification so I can get what I need and get it tilled in.


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Ok good to know it wasn’t just me having issues! I emailed them last week to let them know the formatting is messed up. I’m hoping to hear from them this week. Need to get clarification so I can get what I need and get it tilled in.


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i have had to call them before ....just use the contact on the bottom of your report ......that will be the tech and he will have the report on the computer in front of him and can discuss as needed all of my interactions have been pleasant and helpful in the past
 

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i have had to call them before ....just use the contact on the bottom of your report ......that will be the tech and he will have the report on the computer in front of him and can discuss as needed all of my interactions have been pleasant and helpful in the past
You can also call your local Extension office. The agent can probably pull the same report up on their computer and decipher it. They are worth knowing anyway in case you have other questions like insects or plant disease issues.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally got clarification. Now I just need to figure out how the heck to get the right ratios in a fertilizer...lol.

So here is what my soil test shows I need (lbs/1000 sq ft): N/P/K of 0/3/1; Lime of 75 (the two 0s on their own lines are for if you requested data for different "Crops". Zinc and Sulfur numbers aren't done unless you specifically ask for them and that's why those columns are blank.

So my garden area I have tilled up is 43x45; so 1,935 sq ft. To make the math simple I think I can safely round up to 2,000. So I essentially need double (as I under stand) what the soil test shows. It's easy to say ok; for my garden I need to add 150lbs of lime in that entire 43x45 area. Now for a rookie like myself; figuring out how to get the Phosphorus and Potassium is where it gets complicated...for me anyway! Getting a pre-made fertilizer I haven't seen any that doesn't have any Nitrogen....

A google search of "custom made fertilizer" is of no help....so how the heck can I make or buy the fertilizer I need to meet the soil test recommendations the University of Missouri gave me?

I'm wondering if I can go to a Lowes or Farm Store (Tractor Supply, Orscheln, etc) and tell them what I need? I wouldn't think they would do a custom mix...I think the lime is self explanitory....I found online that farm supply places sell pelletized lime for around $5 per 40lbs.

I think it was referenced above; the numbers on fertilizer represent what it would be for 100lbs....as the ratio has to be correct...since it would be tough to spread 2lbs of K in a 43x45 "square" real accurately....????

Help? lol
 
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A google search of "custom made fertilizer" is of no help....so how the heck can I make or buy the fertilizer I need to meet the soil test recommendations the University of Missouri gave me?

I'm wondering if I can go to a Lowes or Farm Store (Tractor Supply, Orscheln, etc) and tell them what I need? I wouldn't think they would do a custom mix...I think the lime is self explanitory....I found online that farm supply places sell pelletized lime for around $5 per 40lbs.

I think it was referenced above; the numbers on fertilizer represent what it would be for 100lbs....as the ratio has to be correct...since it would be tough to spread 2lbs of K in a 43x45 "square" real accurately....????

Help? lol

Yeah, you can use the pelletized lime from HD. Lowe's, etc...

As for the other stuff, your profile says you are in Lawson, MO.

Call Lawson Agri-Services on N. Penn St.


They are a wholesale fertilizer dealer. Tell them what you are looking for and ask them for leads on a local retailer that carries their products. They know who they distribute products to. (They may even sell retail, I dunno.)
 
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Finally got clarification. Now I just need to figure out how the heck to get the right ratios in a fertilizer...lol.

So here is what my soil test shows I need (lbs/1000 sq ft): N/P/K of 0/3/1; Lime of 75 (the two 0s on their own lines are for if you requested data for different "Crops". Zinc and Sulfur numbers aren't done unless you specifically ask for them and that's why those columns are blank.

So my garden area I have tilled up is 43x45; so 1,935 sq ft. To make the math simple I think I can safely round up to 2,000. So I essentially need double (as I under stand) what the soil test shows. It's easy to say ok; for my garden I need to add 150lbs of lime in that entire 43x45 area. Now for a rookie like myself; figuring out how to get the Phosphorus and Potassium is where it gets complicated...for me anyway! Getting a pre-made fertilizer I haven't seen any that doesn't have any Nitrogen....

A google search of "custom made fertilizer" is of no help....so how the heck can I make or buy the fertilizer I need to meet the soil test recommendations the University of Missouri gave me?

I'm wondering if I can go to a Lowes or Farm Store (Tractor Supply, Orscheln, etc) and tell them what I need? I wouldn't think they would do a custom mix...I think the lime is self explanitory....I found online that farm supply places sell pelletized lime for around $5 per 40lbs.

I think it was referenced above; the numbers on fertilizer represent what it would be for 100lbs....as the ratio has to be correct...since it would be tough to spread 2lbs of K in a 43x45 "square" real accurately....????

Help? lol
I think those amounts are so small that I'd just put the lime on and not worry about the other this year. While you can't do that long term, when you are trying to get a pound or two in a 2,000 sq ft area or even 5 lbs, there are enough nutrients in the soil for this crop.

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I am with Tree Farmer ...lime level is huge so it needs to be done......the 0-3-1 is very low so i wouldnt consider it critical

BUT .....you can find 0-0-60 potash by the bag...and 0-46-0 phosphorous by the bag...just call around or google it ........ lots of places will carry a 0-20-20 mix by the bag also
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, you can use the pelletized lime from HD. Lowe's, etc...

As for the other stuff, your profile says you are in Lawson, MO.

Call Lawson Agri-Services on N. Penn St.


They are a wholesale fertilizer dealer. Tell them what you are looking for and ask them for leads on a local retailer that carries their products. They know who they distribute products to. (They may even sell retail, I dunno.)
Thanks! Will do!


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I am with Tree Farmer ...lime level is huge so it needs to be done......the 0-3-1 is very low so i wouldnt consider it critical

BUT .....you can find 0-0-60 potash by the bag...and 0-46-0 phosphorous by the bag...just call around or google it ........ lots of places will carry a 0-20-20 mix by the bag also
It definitely needs lime but I think that's about a ton and half/acre which is needed but not too unusual. We put down a minimum of a ton/acre anytime we apply it and 2 isn't unusual. If we go 2 tons, normally it's a larger screen size so it will last longer. On a couple of thousand square feet, application doesn't cost but it adds up on ag acres or pastures.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks so much! I need to find the YouTube video I stumbled across earlier today to go through the examples on how you figured the 15lb and 3.3lb for those. Just so I understand the math behind it. Albeit there’s probably an app or website that does it...I’ll search for both; but I also like to know the method in making such calculations!

I found those exact products on amazon. They get here Friday. Looks like I have a couple options close to work to pick up lime. Should work out nicely as I want to get this knocked out over the weekend.

This 43x45 area was just a piece of the approx 6 acres of hay field. I tilled it up in Oct ish time frame. Not sure if I should have or needed to...but my thought was to get the hay and soil mixed up so the grasses could decompose over the winter. I also put a ripper through it in a crisscross pattern down to around 12–15” or so to ensure it wasn’t compacted. So then my thought was to till it again in spring (now) to make a good bed while mixing up the fertilizer that the soil test recommended.

I see now that the lime orscheln has; on the bag it says NOT to till in since it’s water soluble and will basically disperse itself.

I didn’t see on the potash or phosphate descriptions if it is also water soluble or not. Should I till it again to get the bed prepped and then put all three on? Or should I apply the potash and phosphate and till? Then apply the lime on the freshly tilled soil?

Cheers! Thanks all for the help. That was easy to find what I needed once I knew what to look for!


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am with Tree Farmer ...lime level is huge so it needs to be done......the 0-3-1 is very low so i wouldnt consider it critical

BUT .....you can find 0-0-60 potash by the bag...and 0-46-0 phosphorous by the bag...just call around or google it ........ lots of places will carry a 0-20-20 mix by the bag also
I figured I might as well add some potash and phosphate while I was at it. I’m not what you call an expert gardener so I need all the advantage I can get! This is the first time I’ve been able to have more than say a 10x10’ garden. I was either in Vegas, CA, or WA. With no more than 1/3 acre or conditions not conducive to a garden. Prior to that I was single with no family....now with wife and 2 kids I like being able to grow food for us (well the concept of it anyway...we’ll see how successful I am! Lol). So first time I’ve ever got a soil test. I have no clue yet if I’m even going to use that whole area....I know I’ll end up planting too much and it will be 5 times the work I anticipate!


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I figured I might as well add some potash and phosphate while I was at it. I’m not what you call an expert gardener so I need all the advantage I can get! This is the first time I’ve been able to have more than say a 10x10’ garden. I was either in Vegas, CA, or WA. With no more than 1/3 acre or conditions not conducive to a garden. Prior to that I was single with no family....now with wife and 2 kids I like being able to grow food for us (well the concept of it anyway...we’ll see how successful I am! Lol). So first time I’ve ever got a soil test. I have no clue yet if I’m even going to use that whole area....I know I’ll end up planting too much and it will be 5 times the work I anticipate!


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As long as you enjoy the experience, it's all good. If you are like most of us, well me anyway you might have a great garden the first year and then the next might be a bust. Either way, take notes and learn as much as you can. Mother Nature is a great teacher but you have to pay attention in her classes.

Depending on what you are growing, you can broadcast the fertilizer or put it down next to each row of plants. Don't put it in the same trench (hole) as new plants but a few inches away is fine. Lime is broadcast over the whole area. Phosphate is definitely water soluble which is a problem in our area with run off. That's the beauty of a soil test- you can add only the nutrients needed for your plants for that year. More nitrogen and phosphorus than the plants can take up will become runoff either above ground into streams or into the groundwater so by using a soil test you save money and water quality. Potash hangs in the soil a little better. Here's a pretty good discussion of potash in the soil: Can I Apply Potash in Winter?.

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