Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
There are dozens of posts and photos on this topic, and I have read them all a couple of times and looked at all of the photos. But, the more I read, the more confused I get. (Hey - I'm just a college boy with a couple of physics courses under my belt. I hope that nobody expects me to understand how to actually apply all that stuff that was in the books!)

I just want a hydraulic top link on my 1025R. I think that all I need is a cylinder of the correct length, a single lever valve, and the hoses to plumb them into my hydraulic system... I think...

I'm just a hobbyist, so I'm looking for a bucks down rather than a high end solution. A unit from FitRite would be nice, but I can't justify the cost given all the more that I would use it. (It would be a different story if I used the tractor to generate income.)

  • Can I use the hydraulic connections that are on the back of the machine that would normally power the backhoe?
  • What do I need to look for in a valve - I see terms like "bi-directional", "detent", "check valve", and other terms that i don't understand when applied to a hydraulic valve.
  • I would need a valve that holds it's setting without any bleed down. Maybe that's what the check valve does?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Hi Dave, I'll do my best to answer your questions and steer you in the right direction. We have hydraulic top links on our 4105 and 4052R and once you have one, you will forever consider it a necessity as opposed to a luxury. It saves you so much time with adjustments. Ok, to answer your questions.

Can I use the hydraulic connections that are on the back of the machine that would normally power the backhoe? -- I am not familiar enough with the hydraulic setup on a 1025R to answer that question definitively. What you will need is a set of remotes (2 plugs) somewhere on the rear of your tractor that are actuated either by a lever, or a thumb button on your joystick. The levers are manually actuated and the thumb control is what is known as electro-hydraulic. Either will work. Do you have either of those? Pictures could help.

What do I need to look for in a valve - I see terms like "bi-directional", "detent", "check valve", and other terms that i don't understand when applied to a hydraulic valve. -- The hydraulic valve is part of the tractor. I think you are asking about the cylinder itself? When picking a cylinder, there are a couple things to consider. You should try to buy a top link that is similar to the shortest and longest length of your current top link. This may be easier said than done, so you should hook up the implements you typically use to determine the shortest and longest points you may need. Whatever you buy should cover those points. When measuring, measure pin to pin. If a cylinder is advertised as 20" to 28" then it has a "stroke" of 8".

A check valve on the hydraulic top link will keep it from "bleeding down" while in use. Ours have this. However, keep in mind that this will prevent you from using the "float" function if the value on your tractor happens to have that feature.

You will also need to know what category of 3pt hitch you have on your tractor. I don't know if the 1025's are Category 0 or Category 1.

If it's helpful, a link to where we bought our top links is below. Happy to answer any other questions you may have.

https://www.agristoreusa.com/pages/hydraulic-top-links
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Dave, I'll do my best to answer your questions and steer you in the right direction...
Hi Indy - thanks for the response, and sorry that it has taken a while to get back to you. The weather here has been about as close to paradise as it ever gets in Maryland, so I've been out getting seat time, rather than computer time.

I'll try to get a few photos over the weekend, but here is a description:

On the rear of the series 1 there are two hydraulic connections that are used for the backhoe. One is marked P (power?) and the other is marked R (return?) When the backhoe is attached, I connect it to these. All of the controls are part of the backhoe unit; there are not controls for the "rear hydraulics" on the tractor. When the backhoe is removed, the two rear hoses are disconnected from the backhoe and are connected together.

So, what I am wondering - could I use the two rear connectors to power a hydraulic top link? If so, then it seems like a simple matter of getting an appropriately sized hydraulic link and the correct valve, and then plumbing it all together.

Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Thanks for the additional info. Sadly, you aren't going to be able to hookup a hydraulic top link using these ports. Those are "power beyond" ports. Essentially, the tractor is continually sending fluid through those lines. That's why you have to put a jumper hose on them when you don't have the backhoe installed on the tractor. You would need to add a set of remotes (SCV) to the tractor. This would allow you to manually actuate the cylinder on command.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the additional info. Sadly, you aren't going to be able to hookup a hydraulic top link using these ports. Those are "power beyond" ports. Essentially, the tractor is continually sending fluid through those lines. That's why you have to put a jumper hose on them when you don't have the backhoe installed on the tractor. You would need to add a set of remotes (SCV) to the tractor. This would allow you to manually actuate the cylinder on command.
Thanks again. Where would the SCV tap into the hydraulic system, since the rear power beyond ports aren't an option?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,687 Posts
Thanks for the additional info. Sadly, you aren't going to be able to hookup a hydraulic top link using these ports.

Those are "power beyond" ports. Essentially, the tractor is continually sending fluid through those lines.
If that is like my tractor,, I believe you could use those ports,, but, a simple valve would be necessary.

Those two tractor ports could connect to a "wood splitter" valve,, then the new handle would actuate the top link cylinder.
I reference a wood splitter valve, because it basically has all the correct functions,,
and because of the high number of them that are used,, they are usually - C H E A P !!

Two of the valve ports connect to the tractor, two ports connect to the cylinder,,
you should be in business,, :dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Thanks again. Where would the SCV tap into the hydraulic system, since the rear power beyond ports aren't an option?
It would depend on the kit you buy. I have a 4 series so I imagine it would be quite different than the 1. However, you would have to add what is known as the 3rd SCV (which is controlled with a thumb control on the loader) or the 4th and 5th, which are typically lever controls. I have installed both on my machine. Each is a little different process. I'm sure if you search on the forum here you can find the part numbers you would need for each. That or you can call your dealer and they will help you figure out which kits you need. I will say though, that if you plan to add these and are at all mechanically inclined, save yourself the money and install them yourself. At least on my tractor, my dealer wanted 800+ to install each kit.

Both kits hookup to your hydraulic system a little differently. The install process for the 3rd SCV has you add a new solenoid to the machine along with some new metal lines. You open up plugs on the machine and connect to those. The 4th and 5th I believe was easier and cheaper overall. I plan to make a video about this for our YouTube page at some point, but it may not be applicable since you have a 1 series. I hope this is helpful!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So, a single lever valve costs about $100 and cylinders are in the $200 range. do all log splitter valves hold their position, or do I need to look for something in the valves description or feature list?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Thanks for posting this question.

I have a 2018 2025R with a backhoe. I was wanting to add a hydraulic top link and a hydraulic adjustable side link on the 3 point hitch and was wondering if I could use the backhoe hydraulic connections.

Like you, I am no expert on the hydraulics of these tractors.

I will keep a close eye on this thread. This stuff is expensive and I don't want to make any mistakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Visit the web site for our supporting vendor fit rite hydraulics.
They can sell you everything you need - cylinders, valves, hoses, correct ends on the cylinders so they actually fit, etc as a complete kit specific to your tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Visit the web site for our supporting vendor fit rite hydraulics.
They can sell you everything you need - cylinders, valves, hoses, correct ends on the cylinders so they actually fit, etc as a complete kit specific to your tractor.
Thanks!

I have checked out this website a couple of times. The wait time is much longer than I would like. I do understand that it is a one man operation and the best he can do. It does look like top quality workmanship.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I may be getting this figured out

Am I on the right track?

Top link ~$200:
It looks like i need a cat 1 hydraulic top lnk cylinder of the correct lenght. The top link must also have a check valve so that it will hold its position.

Valve ~$100-150:
single open system spool control valve

Hoses ~ $100 2 hoses with quick connects on one end to connect the valve to the backhoe hydraulic feed. 2 more hoses to connect the valve to the top link cylinder.

Questions:


  • Does my list of components make sense?
  • Does anybody know what flow rate I needfor the valve?
  • Any suggestions on convenient locations to mount the valve?
  • Am I overlooking any necessary components or considerations?
Note:. I don’t need or want a hydraulic tilt link. Only the top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
If that is like my tractor,, I believe you could use those ports,, but, a simple valve would be necessary.

Those two tractor ports could connect to a "wood splitter" valve,, then the new handle would actuate the top link cylinder.
I reference a wood splitter valve, because it basically has all the correct functions,,
and because of the high number of them that are used,, they are usually - C H E A P !!

Two of the valve ports connect to the tractor, two ports connect to the cylinder,,
you should be in business,, :dunno:
Hi CADplans - Thanks for this post. After a few months of reading about hydraulic systems and re-visiting your post, I think that I understand what I need to do to configure a bucks-down hydraulic top link. Please take a look at my previous post titled "I may be getting this figured out" and let me know what you think.

IndyFarmLife - When you said that the powerbeyond ports can't be used, did you mean to say that they can't be used directly into the cylinder, but can be used if a valve, like the log splitter valve recommended by CADPlans, is inserted between the PB ports and the hydraulic cylinder?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,687 Posts
Am I on the right track?

Top link ~$200:
It looks like i need a cat 1 hydraulic top lnk cylinder of the correct lenght. The top link must also have a check valve so that it will hold its position.

Valve ~$100-150:
single open system spool control valve

Hoses ~ $100 2 hoses with quick connects on one end to connect the valve to the backhoe hydraulic feed. 2 more hoses to connect the valve to the top link cylinder.

Questions:


  • Does my list of components make sense?
  • Does anybody know what flow rate I needfor the valve?
  • Any suggestions on convenient locations to mount the valve?
  • Am I overlooking any necessary components or considerations?
Note:. I don’t need or want a hydraulic tilt link. Only the top.
Flow rate of the valve,,
think about it,, you want fine adjustment anyways, so the smallest valve you can find will be perfect.
The same with the hoses to the cylinder, the smallest available, probably 1/4"

Where do you mount the valve?
That can not be answered until you get the valve,,
once the valve is in your hands, the mounting location will be determined by trial and error,, where WILL it fit, the 1 Series is small,,

Too bad this seems to be no longer available in CAT 1,, it is the perfect answer,,,

HydrauLink Installation - YouTube


It still seems to be available as CAT 2,,, :dunno:
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top