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Discussion Starter #1
My project 4710's electrical wiring is driving me crazy. Brief background - I bought a sight unseen 4710 by bidding online at an equipment sale. I don't know the history, but apparently the tractor was used for spraying a corrosive liquid fertilizer. Until now I have sorted out everything with just a lot of sweat and muscle with the only mechanical issue found being a stripped drive-line coupling. I am now trying to replace the work lights. Oddly the hot wire is reading between 6 to 7 volts with no switched power. Also discovered another pair of wires to a non-OEM rocker switch that with the switch removed have 13+ volts (battery voltage) on one wire and 6 to 7 volts on the other wire. Both the work light wires and the mystery switch wires have been interwoven into the wiring harness so I haven't yet been able to find the other ends. The fuse panel is melted at the F6 fuse and the wires snipped off in the back. There is a free swinging relay with multiple wires added near the fuse panel with at least one wire snipped from a homemade "Y" and with power supplied directly from the key switch. If you disconnect this relay the fuel solenoid will not work; nor will it work if you remove the factory relay or the fuel controller module. There are another pair of added wires with a 20 amp fuse between them; haven't check these yet, but logic would say they are for the melted F6 fuse holder. The headlights work in the field position but not the road position - maybe this is because I have removed the tail light bulbs as they came on after washing the tractor and would not go off; the flasher bulbs are burned out. There is no relay in place for the manifold heater although all of the wiring appears to be there. I think I can sort out the fuse panel but I have not a clue as to where the 6 to 7 volts would be coming - unless the fertilizer has turned the tractor into a big battery. Help!!! Please. Almost forgot, the turn signal switch is almost impossible to move so I presume it is badly corroded. It will be replaced once I get the steering wheel off.

Ron
 

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low voltage like that would indicate to me you have a corrosion bridge somewhere that is bleeding power into the circut .......i have seen bad connections that would bleed low voltage but then go to zero when you tried to apply a load ....i would think you could easily have this kind of issue due to corrosion in a group multi connector or otherwise shared area

i am assuming the circut is showing the voltage when it is NOT engergized .......if it is showing that while engergized then you have a bad connection somewhere also

a common place i have seen what you describe is in trailer light connectors that are dirty,oxcidized and corroded ...you get dim or no lighting and low voltage till you clean or replace the connector
 

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Discussion Starter #3
low voltage like that would indicate to me you have a corrosion bridge somewhere that is bleeding power into the circut .......i have seen bad connections that would bleed low voltage but then go to zero when you tried to apply a load ....i would think you could easily have this kind of issue due to corrosion in a group multi connector or otherwise shared area

i am assuming the circut is showing the voltage when it is NOT engergized .......if it is showing that while engergized then you have a bad connection somewhere also

a common place i have seen what you describe is in trailer light connectors that are dirty,oxcidized and corroded ...you get dim or no lighting and low voltage till you clean or replace the connector
Thanks. Next stop will be the turn signal switch. Ron
 

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These may help. Main electrical diagram for a 45-4710. I would suggest printing them out an aligning them so that you can get the whole picture considering they split the diagram up onto several pages.







 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I have the TM, but didn't think to print it all out. I will give that a shot. In the pictures you can see the Mickey Mouse mess I have. The panel is upside down in the photos as I can't stretch it any further from the tractor. The heavy white wire going to the relay comes from the switch. Ron

IMG_4417.JPG IMG_4425.JPG IMG_4428.JPG IMG_4432.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Still working on the 4710. I cleaned up the wiring mess and eliminated the duplicate relay. Fuse panel was melted at the F6 and F7 so I put an inline fuse holder for the F76; I don't need the F6. I labeled all of the wires that have been cut. Thank you Deere for labeling the wires, but no kudos for making the harness so short. Everything electrical works now, except the tachometer and the temperature gauge.

Believe the temperature gauge is a grounded (i.e. bad) sensor. Tachometer seems to be at a minimum a ground issue as it works intermittently and somethings partially (read less than actual rpms). Funny thing is it works properly when the MFWD switch is engaged. Hour meter works. Tests results: X7 - .75 volts at 334 yellow (manual calls for .45 volts); X8 about a volt less than battery voltage at 562K Red (manual calls for battery voltage), 3.68 volts at 325 Dark Green (manual calls for .04 volts) and no continuity at 050D Black (this is a ground wire and should have continuity to the ground). I pierced what appeared to be 050D downstream and had continuity, but I have no reason to believe that it is broken between that point and the X8 plug. I guess I should have checked the wire just as it leaves X8 to see if there is a connection issue within X8, but I wasn't thinking at the time. Oh well, I have stripped the tractor so many times I believe I could do it with my eyes closed so what's one more time. I find a new electrical problem every time I button it up.* I have worn out the TM trying to figure this one. Does anyone know where the smaller ground wires join the larger ones? I found where three became two near the clutch pivot, but there were several more small grounds still traveling down the wire harness at that point. All of the wires had continuity to the ground at that location.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ron

*Put it back together tonight and had absolutely no power. Stripped it back down again and when through everything I had touched. Couldn't find anything so I started tracing from the positive battery cable back. Voltage at the alternator. So I immediately thought fusible link. Unfortunately its location is a Deere secret. Feeling around the starter, I heard the relays click. Found a bad connection of the two smaller hot wires that begin at the starter terminal. Cleaned it and I have a running tractor again.
 
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