And maybe the shear bolt.You probably need to check your hydraulic pressure.
are you certain the PTO stalled?... or did you just experince the bush hog stopping?... you mentioned a shear bolt - but do you also have a slip clutch by chance?
I'd change shear bolt to the softest grade you can find.
Bolt will be about 4$
Your pto clutch/brake set up will be close to a grand +- installed if you fry that.
yes - it should.Its new. Should it not kill the motor?
He wants to charge you if there is nothing wrong?.... what is the definition of "wrong".... is the PTO supposed to stop under load, or not?... What happens once it stops?... can it stay in that "slipping state" forever?... is it designed for that?... or will keeping in that state for more than 2 seconds going to destroy the clutch?.... my argument is that it is "NOT" designed for this...
The PTO is not supposed to stop. Period. The engine should be stalled before the PTO clutch starts to slip. The Clutch is NOT a torque-limiter. It is an engagement-device. Once it's engaged, it should be equivalent to a "hard connection" between the engine and the PTO shaft.
So this is a YES/NO question...does it slip before the engine stalls...or not.....
not some variable answer "well - you can get 18HP (for example) at the PTO before it starts to slip, therefore everything is OK".
did they hook up a mower or some other heavy load implement like a tiller to it, and actually try it?...
Interesting situation. I would first try to determine the PTO clutch purpose. If it is in fact, just for engagement and should be a "lock up" connection once engaged, then it sounds like you have an issue. I don't know for fact, but I do believe it should effectively "lock" the connection. I have a 3039R but have never used to PTO on it (hopefully will in the next couple weeks). My gut feeling is the clutch should not slip like that, it should stall the engine. I have an older 2350, it is mid 80s era and has a mechanical PTO clutch, not electric like the 3039R. I have stalled, or nearly stalled the engine on the 2350 several times with a cutter behind it and never noticed any slipping of the clutch. Based on that experience I think you should have your tractor looked at. Not that it is relevant here, but I try to engage/disengage at idle RPMs which should limit stress on the clutch.
Maybe Ken or one of the other guys on here that has hands on experience with the workings of a PTO clutch will jump in with their take on it.
I agree with the other posts here that a shear bolt change should also be done. What cutter are you using? Assuming it came from the same dealer as the tractor it should be matched to the tractor and the slipping should not happen. If the cutter is larger than the tractor "should" handle, maybe that is part of the problem. Something like an 8' cutter behind a 3033R would create energy the clutch can't handle, but still seems like the engine should stall before a slip occurs...
Either way, that is a $250 gamble I would take!
It is a $300 pos I bought on the side of the road. No clutch. 5ft. Hauwse brand?
I stalled it out cutting trees high and dropping over them wide open. Mabey 2" but probably 4" when the pto quit spinning. Shear bolt is grade 5, 1/2".
Yes too big of brush to cut, but it was doing it. I should probably leave it in the ditch and go buy a better one with a clutch.
Wow, 4"? That's a lot to ask of it. It should still probably stall the engine before it slips though. Hope you get it ironed outIt is a $300 pos I bought on the side of the road. No clutch. 5ft. Hauwse brand?
I stalled it out cutting trees high and dropping over them wide open. Mabey 2" but probably 4" when the pto quit spinning. Shear bolt is grade 5, 1/2".
Yes too big of brush to cut, but it was doing it. I should probably leave it in the ditch and go buy a better one with a clutch.