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Discussion Starter #1
I have been noticing hydraulic oil stains within the tread of my right rear tire on my 1025R. They are coming from the Main control valve (MCV loader joystick). Three weeks ago I removed the right rear fender to gain access to the MCV fittings. All fittings appeared to be tight with no fluid seepage visible. There was however visible fluid on the 2 valve body housings. I tightened the 2 Allen screws per body and thought I fixed it.. Well the tractor has been sitting for a week and I see hydraulic oil again On the tire. So I removed the right rear tire and saw something strange on one of the valve bodies. Each valve body housing has a small hole on the bottom. With the tractor not running loader and mower not installed I moved the joystick in all directions and saw hydraulic oil coming out of one of the holes on the bottom of that valve body. I attached a picture with a toothpick (for location) in the hole that is leaking. Anyone know how to fix this thing? Please do not recommend a new valve as they are $2000.
thanks John
 

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Well, I come up with John Deere part number LVA19131 at $942.31 for the new control valve, which is still a lot of money.

How many hours are on your tractor?

How much fluid are you losing out of the valve, are we talking drops or pools of hydraulic fluid?

Perhaps someone who knows the complete function of the valve can explain the reasons for the holes in the bottom of the solenoid or cylinder on the base of the control valve and what is happening when you are seeing the fluid coming out of the valve. Perhaps there is an O ring or packing which is allowing the fluid past to drip out of the hole in the bottom, I just don't know because I haven't ever touched the "manual hydraulic valve".

I am sure someone will know whats going on with what you are seeing. I do know that much of the GTT brain trust is in Louisville at the Farm Show and this time of night on a Friday night, who knows what they are up to but I would imagine it involves adult beverages and their elbow being bent.......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2017 1025R with 57 hours total. I would say 2-3 drips each time the joystick is moved.
hope it is an oring.
 

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I am going to take a guess...the hole is there to let you know there is a leak. Kinda like the weep hole in a water pump. Again, just a SWAG.
 

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First, I think those allen head screws are adjustments to the valves. You'll probably need to put them back to where they were.

Your leak is probably a failed seal inside. Unfortunately they don't show many repair parts for the internals of the SCV.

Look at this page in the parts catalog.


It shows the valve as part number LVA19131, $942.30. (It's also shown on this page, but is a different view of it. John Deere Parts Catalog )

On that first page I linked, they show a seal kit, # LVA17477, along with a few other parts that I'm assuming could be internal pieces to the valve. I'd get with your dealer and see if he can makes some calls and find out more about that seal kit, and/or any other information about the valve, and what's repairable.

I remember a thread from a year or 2 ago, where the member's valve wasn't working right. Long story short, he ended up getting a couple engineering drawings from JD, showing how it was assembled (IIRC). At the time, basically nothing inside was available for replacement parts. It was the whole valve or nothing. His problem ended up being the valve came apart internally, and using the help he got from JD he was able to repair the valve, and I believe without needing any parts.I don't believe he had a leak though. I'll see if I can find that thread. If nothing else, it should show how the valve is assembled.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks kylew
DH 2 year warranty just ended. I believe the power train is all that remains under warranty.
 

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Here's the link to the thread I was thinking of. I suggest reading the entire thread. He posted a nice write-up of his repair. It wasn't a leaking issue, but rather a functioning issue. It can give you some insight about some of the internals of the valve.

At the end of the thread, he posted a couple pictures from JD engineering. They show how those valves are assembled, but unfortunately don't show part numbers or names. There does appear to be seals possibly though. Maybe that kit number I posted earlier has repair seals for those valves?

And I apologize. From his write-up, it sounds as if those allen head bolts you tightened are suppose to be tight, and are not an adjustment.

Link: 1025R Cant curl bucket up, joystick wont move very far left?
 

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Those allen screws simply hold those caps in place. (Typing while Kyle was posting, dang it!)
The only adjustment available from that side as pictured is to the pressure on the other allen screw/lock nut.
The service manual doesnt show anything regarding disassembly.
Kind of sad really, because the older manuals usually showed every single part torn down.

Id contact my dealer and ask them to contact Deere if they are unwilling to help, since it sounds like its JUST out of warranty. Sometimes they will work to fix it, even though its technically not covered.

Now if they dont want to, if it were mine, Id take that cap off and see what was what. Having been inside similar valves before, there are only so many ways they seal, and its usually with some type of 0-ring. Those are fairly easy to get in any size these days.
But Id also know going in that it could be opening a hornets nest by doing so, as there could be loose parts in there, and I know my abilities for such things too.
Since its vented, thats its not entirely likely that there would be too much in the way of moving parts, as they would need to be lubricated to keep from corroding with the vent on the bottom right above the wheel like that.
 
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Those allen screws simply hold those caps in place.
Sorry Jim, I was talking about the bolt holding the spring & cup, not the cover bolts. My bad.
727369
 
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From the valve cross section, I suspect that o-ring #3 is leaking since it is the only dynamic seal that I see. It slides on the valve as the valve moves left and right. If cold, it may be more susceptible to a few drops here and there until the seal and valve warms a little, or it could be damaged. O-rings can also take a set if unused for a long period, contributing to leakage.

The hole at the bottom of the cover is to allow any leakage to escape, otherwise once full the valve would no longer function. I believe the 3 small balls are meant to center the valve in the sleeve to maintain proper clearance. The large spring- loaded ball pushes the 3 small balls outward, providing the centering force.

You should be able to disassemble the valve to inspect the parts, but if you do, make sure you do it in a clean, clean environment.

Or I could be wrong about everything...?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Kylew great LVA17475exploded view!!
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Why are the parts descriptions blacked out?I was able to remove the item 13 above after I took some bolts out on the inside fender and removed the right rear tire. It does appear I need orings #2 and #3. I am not sure if I can remove the valve out the bottom and replace the orings without removal of item 11 spring in blowup of LVA17475. Not sure how I would ever compress that spring to get the Alan nut that holds 11 back on. Maybe I could slide new rings up over spring 11 without removing the valve assembly. It
appears this valve is made in Turkey so much for Deere made in America.
 

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Why are the parts descriptions blacked out?I was able to remove the item 13 above after I took some bolts out on the inside fender and removed the right rear tire. It does appear I need orings #2 and #3. I am not sure if I can remove the valve out the bottom and replace the orings without removal of item 11 spring in blowup of LVA17475. Not sure how I would ever compress that spring to get the Alan nut that holds 11 back on. Maybe I could slide new rings up over spring 11 without removing the valve assembly. It
appears this valve is made in Turkey so much for Deere made in America.
If the prints came from Deere, they "sanitized" them. I am surprised Deere sent any prints.
 

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I don't know why the black boxes are there. Member Titanite got those from JD engineering and posted them. I suspect to blackout sensitive information.
See page 2 of the thread:
1025R Cant curl bucket up, joystick wont move very far left?

Also see post #15 of that thread. He talks about possibly doing it with it still on the tractor, but the hardest part would be trying to compress the spring #11 to be able to start the bolt. Keep in mind that you'd have gravity working against you, and whether it would cause a problem with the steel balls # 5 & 6 seating properly. Also note bolt #10 requires loc-tite and 15-18 Nm of torque.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Do you think Deere sells just the orings for the valve? Any idea if I could remove the joystick assembly and slip the valve out the bottom? If I can get the orings from Deere I would order 2 sets attempting to stretch and slip the first set over the spring. If successful I then would cut the old orings and remove them.
 
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