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Saturday, my 1025r started up as normal and I drove it to the barn intending to put my MMM on, hit the lift button to put the knob in Install postion, and all the dash lights flashed on and off and then went out and the engine died. Then nothing electrical would work.

Checked all the fuses, good. Checked battery voltage with volt meter, nearly 13 volts. After a few minutes I turned the key on again and the dash lights would all flash for a minute and the tach needle jump back and forth, then everything would go dead again.

I knew it acted like a dead battery but volt meter said no. Couldn't get to where I could check it under load. This all couldn't have happened in a worse place 'cause where I had the deck stored was close quarters and I could hardly get around the tractor to do anything. Needed to get it started so I could drive it back to the shop where I would have room to work and tools.

Managed to get a battery charger on it and could tell by the meter that the battery was not taking a charge. Decided that if it was the battery that was bad I would need to connect another one at least temporarily to be able to move the tractor back to the shop. I remembered that I had one of the small emergency jump-start batteries in my truck that is just a little bit bigger than my Iphone.

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Heck, the battery clamps are almost as big as the battery.

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Had never tried to use it and wasn't too confident that it could actually start an engine, but had nothing to lose by trying it.

Lo and behold, that little battery started it right up. Once it was running I was afraid to disconnect the jump-battery so I carefully placed it where I thought it would ride safely, and slowly eased the tractor back to the shop. There I turned the key off and dis-connected the jump-battery and everything was dead again.

The battery placement in the 1025r is a PITA. It's like having to lift a lead block out of a well. There wasn't enough clearance for my battery carrier to get down to it. Finally just had to get hold of the battery the best way I could and was about half-way up with it when it became clear that at least one of the headlights would have to be removed before it would clear. Finally got it out after removing the light, while trying not to hit the fins on the oil cooler. At least the hold-down (rubber bungee) is easy to remove. :laugh:

Once on the bench I put a load tester on the battery, it read nearly 13 volts but as soon as I hit the load it dropped to less than half a volt. I thought I had had every kind of battery failure there was over the years, but this is the first time I've ever had one die while driving. And the tractor is only a little over 2 years old (May of 2014) with 82 hours.

By now was getting late so decided to quit for the day. Sunday I started checking online for a battery. JD dealer was closed of course, and maybe tomorrow being a holiday, doubt that they would have one anyway. Batteries Plus showed to have a replacement but my store didn't have one. Only place I could find that had one was O'Reillys so went and got it and installed, tractor working again.

This battery size (group 22nf) is listed everywhere I found as a Lawn and Garden battery and the CCA and CA ratings are less than JD's, which seems to mean that John Deere wants you to only buy their battery. But since mine only lasted 2 years I'm not too impressed with their ratings. I guess time will tell whether I should be or not.

Probably should have just used the jump-battery in it, but would need a much shorter bungee hold-down. :lol:
 

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A strip of Velcro would do it...

This is the neverending story of the factory batteries.
There great and then crap the bed out of nowhere. test at better than 12v..won't charge..won't start & as you stated
are a PITA to extract.
JD dealers up here in Oregon...stock them dry...fill when you buy and are priced identicle to aftermarkets that almost fit right. IIRC they are $ 111.oo.

Neat little tool you have in your arsenal...and it werks:thumbup1gif:
 

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Bet you had an "open" battery.
Had the exact similar symptoms with my old S-10 pickup.
The 7 year old Delco, read 13 point something volts with my Fluke DVM, but would drop to zero when I attempted to crank or even turn on
headlights.
Finally concluded that there was an internal open between cells in the battery and the DVM, because of it's high input impedance,
was measuring basically a capacitance type charge between the positive and negative terminals.
Probably an old analog meter with a much lower input impedance would have showed a voltage well below 13V.

My 2 cents for what it's worth.:hi:
 

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Yes a battery can fail just like that. That how the last one in my Wrangler went out. Stopped at the store for a coffee. When I tried to restart it I had nothing.

If you are not using the tractor often enough it's hard on the battery. I'd recommend getting a quality battery tender. You want one that automatically shuts off when fully charged. Then leave the tractor plugged in until you need to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes a battery can fail just like that. That how the last one in my Wrangler went out. Stopped at the store for a coffee. When I tried to restart it I had nothing.
Yep, I've had a lot of batteries fail like that, starts fine one time and then dead as a doornail the next time. That used to be a standing joke around here about the Sears DieHard batteries. They were really stout and usually lasted a long time, but when they finally died, they DIED HARD. I think every one I ever had went like that. :laugh:

But this is the first battery I've ever had that died while the engine was running and actually killed the engine. Dying while trying to start is understandable with the high current needed, but once it's running the alternator will normally keep it running. Especially a diesel, which in this case shouldn't need any current to keep running except for the electric fuel pump.

If you are not using the tractor often enough it's hard on the battery. I'd recommend getting a quality battery tender. You want one that automatically shuts off when fully charged. Then leave the tractor plugged in until you need to use it.
I keep a battery minder on everything I have with a battery and this tractor had one since new. The last battery I replaced on my other older tractor lasted 13 years with this method, so I was really surprised when this one went at a little over 2 years. But this battery size (group 22nf) is for a Lawn and Garden tractor battery which are normally not long-lived. Don't understand why Deere didn't use a standard size. If this happens again I will probably try to change the size.
 

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The last time I had my tractor battery die I almost sh*t the bed when I found out they wanted 109 dollars for it. My car battery cost less than that and is twice the output. Anyway long story short I bought myself a "racing" battery. Just a touch smaller than the JD battery 880cca and it was an acid free battery. That thing lasted until I got rid of the tractor! Only cost 135 dollars too. definitely a better investment in my eyes!
 

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Wow, I guess it really is hit or miss with these batteries.
My tractor is almost 4 years old with 330 hrs and still has the original battery.
I have never put it on a tender/minder, I use the tractor year round and it lives outside. I also have depleted it once running the lights after dark, and I have a utility winch that draws a lot of amps. The longest I have let the tractor sit unused was 3 weeks.

Anyone have a longer lasting battery on the 1 series than mine?


Mr. Moose
 
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Wow, I guess it really is hit or miss with these batteries.
My tractor is almost 4 years old with 330 hrs and still has the original battery.
I have never put it on a tender/minder, I use the tractor year round and it lives outside. I also have depleted it once running the lights after dark, and I have a utility winch that draws a lot of amps. The longest I have let the tractor sit unused was 3 weeks.

Anyone have a longer lasting battery on the 1 series than mine?


Mr. Moose
I've always had good luck with the JD batteries. However I never owned a 1 series just smaller units. Only ever put 1 in my old 2005 L108 in the 10 years I owned it. The original one in my 2014 X540 is still kicking. Usually never use a battery tender unless it sits over a month.
 
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Wow, I guess it really is hit or miss with these batteries.
My tractor is almost 4 years old with 330 hrs and still has the original battery.
I have never put it on a tender/minder, I use the tractor year round and it lives outside. I also have depleted it once running the lights after dark, and I have a utility winch that draws a lot of amps. The longest I have let the tractor sit unused was 3 weeks.

Anyone have a longer lasting battery on the 1 series than mine?


Mr. Moose
I'm at 4yrs/9mos and about 235hrs and still using original JD battery.
I too have never put the battery on a tender/minder although my tractor is kept inside garage when not in use.
It does sit unused for long stretches sometimes during winter months but is always ready to go when I need it.

I always had good luck with batteries on my 420 as well prior to owning the 1026.

As I always say to my work buddies when something goes right, "Better to be lucky than good".
 

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The last battery I had to buy was for my Miller welder.
The battery is VERY similar in size to the Group 22,,
I do not remember exactly what Group # it is.

Anyways,, all the usual battery suppliers, from Walmart to Advance Auto,
wanted $109 to $139,,, :dunno:

I happened to check Tractor Supply,,, they only wanted $79!! :yahoo:

I got a 15% off coupon in an email yesterday,, it is good Monday only,,,
I need another battery,, I will be there with my coupon in HAND!!

:laugh:
 

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One fact to keep in mind. A battery will sell discharge faster in warm temperatures.
I LOL every time this comes up at the bike shop. When recommending a customer buy a battery tender especially for winter storage. The answer I usually get is "I don't need one because my bike is stored in a heated garage"
 
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