Seems to be a common problem, though not really a problem with the one series. The diff-lock is designed to engage when the brakes are applied because there is only one brake and if the diff was not locked one wheel could spin. Like Dieselshadow said check the linkage. If all looks good then it should be just a minor adjustment. I know some one series owners have said it is easier to apply some brake to lock the diff when needed than to use the diff-lock itself.
I checked for any obvious obstructions and did not find anything. However, what I did find when following the diff lock foot lever to the diff, is that it is not connected to anything on the diff and it looks like the bracket on the diff may be stuck in the locked position. When moving the foot lever, it does not move anything on that bracket. Shouldn't it be connected?
I just checked mine and from what I can tell it looks like yours is stuck internally or the brake pedal is down or needs adjustment.
Now on mine, with the brake pushed down the diff pedal linkage looks just like your video, but if its the left side diff pedal its got to be stuck internally or like i said the linkage in the brake pedal it screwed up.
Seems there was some tiny gravel/rocks jammed up on the brake side of the diff in and around the spring. Once I got that free I was able to engage/disengage the diff lock by hand. All looks to be ok now. Thanks for the help.
I noticed the first time I used mine in December that it picks up gravel in my drive way while pushing snow and throws small pieces up there. Havent had any issues /w it so i didnt think of that directly. If it causes more problems maybe wrap a cut up tire or bicycle inner tube around it and zip tie it down.
Had an issue with mine where the linkage turns and gets cocked in the ear on the diff itself and jams
Service manager has a call in to deere to see about a fix but they temporarily stuck a washer on it...see if that works
Also from what I can tell by just moving forward, the differential automatically tries to lock.
The lever gets pushed down and allows the ear to flip down and lock
The lever actually just holds it out of the lock position
Thats what happened to mine. Read the article where another members mower was cutting short on turns (sticky) and went to check mine and sure enough mine was in there all bound up. bopped it with my hand and it straightened out.
When I went down to check mine the other day i found I could make it happen when the brake was down and locked and then hit the diff pedal. The pedal linkage dropped and got bound up again which would make sense cause it happened when I first got it and was playing with controls in my garage.
If it gives me any more prob's I'll prob stick a washer in and hold it in with a cotter pin after drilling a hole.
I have been noticing hydraulic oil stains within the tread of my right rear tire on my 1025R. They are coming from the Main control valve (MCV loader joystick). Three weeks ago I removed the right rear fender to gain access to the MCV fittings. All fittings appeared to be tight with no fluid...
the adjustable stop latch/lever or whatever does not stay in place because of the flimsy plastic that it is mounted to. consequently, my rake drops deeper than i want it to. is there a home made fix for this???
I have a rear blower attached to my 3 point hitch and I noticed lately that it is not rising up level.
The right side goes higher than the left which put the blower at an angle in the air.
I removed the two arms and tested the lift. They both seem to be lifting the same.
I recently purchased a tractor to do tractor stuff. But I do have a few Airstreams and was hoping to be able to use the Tractor at times to move them if I wanted
The 1023e’s stated rear lift capacity is in the 680lb range
My 2007 25’ trailer weighs in under 500 pounds of tongue weight. So no...