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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day I noticed the foward/reverse pedals were sloppy and the tractor wouldn't stop very quickly when I let off the pedal. In reading on this site I saw the shock absorber was a possible cause.

As suspected, the shock absorber had become disconnected so I tried to connect it again. Unfortunately it seems like the threads were stripped because the absorber came unhooked even during my "test" before putting everything together.

My problem now is the torx bolt that holds the rear of the absorber is stuck. Does anyone have any ideas how to deal with a stuck torx bolt? I put on some liquid wrench last night and still no luck this morning.
 

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As an old Jeep Wrangler YJ owner I have plenty of experience with stuck Torx bolts. Nearly every bolt on that thing is Torx and they all have the AMC/Mopar rust. One of a few things usually happen- Torx head strips, bit breaks, part of bolt breaks in hole, nothing happens- and sometimes it even comes loose! Soaking the bolt in PB Blaster a few times per day for a week or so sometimes helps. The best method I’ve found is to weld a nut on the head of the Torx bolt. Between the heat and the ability to use a socket and possibly an impact on it will usually do the trick.
 

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As an old Jeep Wrangler YJ owner I have plenty of experience with stuck Torx bolts. Nearly every bolt on that thing is Torx and they all have the AMC/Mopar rust. One of a few things usually happen- Torx head strips, bit breaks, part of bolt breaks in hole, nothing happens- and sometimes it even comes loose! Soaking the bolt in PB Blaster a few times per day for a week or so sometimes helps. The best method I’ve found is to weld a nut on the head of the Torx bolt. Between the heat and the ability to use a socket and possibly an impact on it will usually do the trick.
Heat is your friend.

I have more then one custom stubby t45 bit.

Red locktite needs heat

Rust needs heat.

An induction heater is on my actual wish list, I’ve shopped several times, and thought of it while working on stuff. The only question is when
 
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3046R, 320R loader, 375A BH, 72D MMM, 4406H BB, County Line Landscape Rake, Fimco 40gal 3pt sprayer
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You might try the trick I use on the Torx head bolts for Harley brake rotors. Hit it a time or two with an impact in the right hand direction first. If it's got Loctite like those do, it's enough to break that loose first. Heat on them is an absolute no-no, because they're aluminum and will warp easily.
 

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You might try the trick I use on the Torx head bolts for Harley brake rotors. Hit it a time or two with an impact in the right hand direction first. If it's got Loctite like those do, it's enough to break that loose first. Heat on them is an absolute no-no, because they're aluminum and will warp easily.
Aluminum bolts into steel?

Heat is the only way to get steen bolts out of aluminum heads, and aluminum will pass heat without warping if it has enough mass, or another mass of a heat sink.

Ford allows you to crack the manifold off to get to the studs, GM makes you heat the bolts with the manifold in place so once removed you can weld nuts onto the steel bolt stubs that previously broke.

Both are aluminum, bolt won’t release the steel studs without heat.

Electron migration caused by galvanic current mixes the metals so the threads can’t release without near melting heat.
 

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I have torches. An induction heater is more like a welder for freeing things. I use map gas on bolts after having acetylene overheat things it shouldn’t.

That’s why an induction heater is on the precipice. It only heats the target.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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The other day I noticed the foward/reverse pedals were sloppy and the tractor wouldn't stop very quickly when I let off the pedal. In reading on this site I saw the shock absorber was a possible cause.

As suspected, the shock absorber had become disconnected so I tried to connect it again. Unfortunately it seems like the threads were stripped because the absorber came unhooked even during my "test" before putting everything together.

My problem now is the torx bolt that holds the rear of the absorber is stuck. Does anyone have any ideas how to deal with a stuck torx bolt? I put on some liquid wrench last night and still no luck this morning.
Did you ever get the bolt out of the shock absorber mount for the pedal control.......???
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you ever get the bolt out of the shock absorber mount for the pedal control.......???
Yes, I got it out by applying some heat as suggested. The replacement part came in yesterday so I've spent a big portion of today trying to get it installed. New style. Instead of using a torx bolt there is a nut you have to tighten. Problem is in order to get the bolt in the hole on the tractor, you can't line up the other end with the pedals. The bar that selects/deselects front wheel assist is in the way.

Does anyone know how I can get the shock absorber to fit? I'm going crazy trying to figure it out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update. Finally got it to fit. Another 64th of an inch and it wouldn't have! While I'm sure there are reasons to redesign the part, I'm not sure I think it was a good idea. Much more difficult to install. When you can only turn the nut about 1/16 of a turn each try it takes a long time to tighten!

All is well now. Just need to do a minor adjustment. I'm fine on grass, but have a slight creep on concrete.
 
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