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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have the Heavy Hitch mounted on my 3 pt hitch arms with a 'hitch/ball' installed.
I want to be able to tow my 4' X 8' utility trailer from my backyard to my front yard driveway when I want to use it, and vice-versa when I want to put it away.

When I lower the 3 point hitch arm lever.... the arms descend very low. I can adjust the lever and bring them up a bit to match the hitch/ball up to the relative height of the trailer coupler.... but don't know if that is the proper way to haul the trailer.

Do I need to adjust the 'drop' vertical height of the 3 point hitch arms somehow, to the relative level of the trailer coupler.... ? If so, how is that done?

Or do I just try and match the trailer coupler height with the 1025 3 point hitch lever position?

Thanks -
 

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Sounds

about right to me.

My 3 point drops low and I have to raise it to the trailers hitch height then a little more to lift the trailer tongue. I have a couple trailers I use plus one from a friend. They all have different heights on the tongues. I make no adjustment on my three point to use any of them.

Oh, and no question is stupid if you are trying to learn. Only answers can be stupid.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
about right to me.

My 3 point drops low and I have to raise it to the trailers hitch height then a little more to lift the trailer tongue. I have a couple trailers I use plus one from a friend. They all have different heights on the tongues. I make no adjustment on my three point to use any of them.


Steve
So, you just raise the 3 point armiture/ hitch to match the trailer coupler.... secure the coupler to the tractor hitch and roll? Simple as that?
 

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That's what I like about using a hitch on the 3-point, you can lower the hitch lower than the trailer coupler, back up putting the ball under the trailer coupler, and raise the hitch into the trailer coupler lifting it off of the trailer jack without getting off of the tractor. Then just get off and secure the hitch and trailer jack, adjust the tongue height to where you want it with the 3-point control, and go.
 

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I pull mine level just as it does on my jeep. I park mine with a 8" concrete block under tongue with slit tilt for water drain. I back up to it and raise 3pt up into hitch , unchalk wheels and it's ready. Reverse to park lower 3pt all the way down and pull out. Eazy peaze


Kind Regards,
mdgilbreath
1990 YJ Jeep Wrangler

1026R / H120 FEL with a WR Long Tooth Bar
Kens Bolt on Grab Hooks http://www.boltonhooks.com
54"quick detach deck
Frontier bush hog-2048
Frontier box blade-2048
JD - imatch hitch
25 Gallon 12 volt Sprayer County Line from TSC
3 Point hitch rig with a 2" receiver bar for sprayer
2" Ball mount to pull utility trailer[/QUOTE]
 

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If your 3-point arms are dropping too slowly the is a valve to adjust the rate of drop. Since I don't have a 1-series someone else will have to chime in to tell you where it is. It is in your manual.
Drop rate knob is below the seat on my 1026r which I have set to slowest , with impliments weight it lowers and raises at the speed I prefer not to jerky.


Kind Regards,
mdgilbreath
1990 YJ Jeep Wrangler

1026R / H120 FEL with a WR Long Tooth Bar
Kens Bolt on Grab Hooks http://www.boltonhooks.com
54"quick detach deck
Frontier bush hog-2048
Frontier box blade-2048
JD - imatch hitch
25 Gallon 12 volt Sprayer County Line from TSC
3 Point hitch rig with a 2" receiver bar for sprayer
2" Ball mount to pull utility trailer[/QUOTE]
 

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I move trailers around quit a bit with both a truck, a forklift and a 3 point. The advantage of the forklift and the 3 point is that you do not have to mess with the foot on the trailer.

Use the three point to lift the trailer high enough to clear any obstacles in your path but not so high that the tail of the trailer will drag. Watch for license plate mountings on the rear as they are usually the first things to take the hit and bend to a 90* angle. I mounted my license plates with a stainless piano hinge so that it can simply swing out of the way.

As long as nothing is dragging you can lift the tongue of the trailer as high as you like. It is faster and more efficient to move them this way.

For what it is worth, trucking companies have what they call a yarder or a yard truck that has a hydraulic fifth wheel. Simply lower the fifth wheel to the parked trailer height, back under and engage then lift the fifth wheel to get the dollies off the ground...same concept using the three 3 point on your trailer!
 

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My imatch works well for me


Kind Regards,
mdgilbreath
1990 YJ Jeep Wrangler

1026R / H120 FEL with a WR Long Tooth Bar
Kens Bolt on Grab Hooks http://www.boltonhooks.com
54"quick detach deck
Frontier bush hog-2048
Frontier box blade-2048
JD - imatch hitch
25 Gallon 12 volt Sprayer County Line from TSC
3 Point hitch rig with a 2" receiver bar for sprayer
2" Ball mount to pull utility trailer[/QUOTE]
 

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Regarding the "low lift arms" in the down position:

The lower arms can be adjusted via the holes that the lift links are in. Lower arms rotated end for end one way gives max distance up/down with less lift ability, opposite way gives less movement and more lift capacity.

:good2:
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Regarding the "low lift arms" in the down position:

The lower arms can be adjusted via the holes that the lift links are in. Lower arms rotated end for end one way gives max distance up/down with less lift ability, opposite way gives less movement and more lift capacity.

:good2:
Thanks - I will take a closer look at that.
 

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That's how they do it at the place I got my 6'X10' landscapeing trailer from. They have few different sizes & colors off tractors to move them around. Peeps don't even get off the tractors. Back up, lift the 3 point and go.
 
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