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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone - First post here - I will search the forums to see if this has already been addressed.

I have a D140 Mower which I purchased with just 8 hours on it.

When driving the mower I noticed that it seems to run the cleanest at full throttle. Below the notch, it seems to stutter or oscillate. The only thing I noticed was the air filter was filthy so I ordered a tune up kit and changed the air filter, fuel pump and fuel filter. Seems to run better but still cleanest at full throttle. Also - I was under the impression that it sat for some time so I drained the fuel cell and replaced it with new fuel.

Is this the norm for this machine? Or is there something else I should check?

EDIT: I did also check the plugs - both are firing just fine.

I did just read that this mower likes higher octane fuel... could be my next item to try.
 

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Hello Everyone - First post here - I will search the forums to see if this has already been addressed.

I have a D140 Mower which I purchased with just 8 hours on it.

When driving the mower I noticed that it seems to run the cleanest at full throttle. Below the notch, it seems to stutter or oscillate. The only thing I noticed was the air filter was filthy so I ordered a tune up kit and changed the air filter, fuel pump and fuel filter. Seems to run better but still cleanest at full throttle. Also - I was under the impression that it sat for some time so I drained the fuel cell and replaced it with new fuel.

Is this the norm for this machine? Or is there something else I should check?

EDIT: I did also check the plugs - both are firing just fine.

I did just read that this mower likes higher octane fuel... could be my next item to try.
Not normal for the engine to surge at any throttle setting. Sometimew they surge when first started but will straighten out. I suspect something in the carb is causing this. Also there were issues with the fuel pick up being too long and it would be on the bottom of the tank.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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8 hours of run time and the air filter is filthy? That sounds, uh, not normal to me. If it sat for a while, maybe a critter got into the air filter? Either way, the surging to me says that the carb needs to be cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
8 hours of run time and the air filter is filthy? That sounds, uh, not normal to me. If it sat for a while, maybe a critter got into the air filter? Either way, the surging to me says that the carb needs to be cleaned.
PHP:

I have no doubt that it was 8 hard hours... it came back to my local Lowes with a broken spindle and I picked it up needing repair for under $500 - I could not pass it up. I can sink a grand into it and I'll still be well ahead. Fortunately I can do most repairs myself.

Today I purchased some stabilizer with fuel injector cleaner and I'm already seeing a world of difference in how it runs. Which leads me to my next question:

I may not completely understand the throttle positions on this mower. The lever has decals to the left and right (image attached) The left shows the mower power run up and what appears to be the cutting position at the top. The right image shows power running up to the detent and the choke at the top of the throttle position. It seems that the mower runs best at the full throttle - holds idle no problem now and the choke is actually at the detent? Is that right? I can't find any refernce to it in the manual and my old 110 had 2 seperate levers for choke and throttle... can someone confirm this for me? Gracias!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not normal for the engine to surge at any throttle setting. Sometimew they surge when first started but will straighten out. I suspect something in the carb is causing this. Also there were issues with the fuel pick up being too long and it would be on the bottom of the tank.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
Thank you for the info... I think I took care of the issue with some stabilizer but if it continues - the carb and pick up is where I'll focus next.
 

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The high throttle position is at the detent.. Any further north of that and yur adding choke. No idea why they put a symbol for cutting so high up. Just run it at the detent. Nice price by the way.
PHP:

I have no doubt that it was 8 hard hours... it came back to my local Lowes with a broken spindle and I picked it up needing repair for under $500 - I could not pass it up. I can sink a grand into it and I'll still be well ahead. Fortunately I can do most repairs myself.

Today I purchased some stabilizer with fuel injector cleaner and I'm already seeing a world of difference in how it runs. Which leads me to my next question:

I may not completely understand the throttle positions on this mower. The lever has decals to the left and right (image attached) The left shows the mower power run up and what appears to be the cutting position at the top. The right image shows power running up to the detent and the choke at the top of the throttle position. It seems that the mower runs best at the full throttle - holds idle no problem now and the choke is actually at the detent? Is that right? I can't find any refernce to it in the manual and my old 110 had 2 seperate levers for choke and throttle... can someone confirm this for me? Gracias!
Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The high throttle position is at the detent.. Any further north of that and yur adding choke. No idea why they put a symbol for cutting so high up. Just run it at the detent. Nice price by the way.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply... looks like I don't have my problem solved then because it runs bad at the detent.
 

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It actually sounds as if there could be some water at the low point in the tank or fuel bowl. However, that would cause a sputtering and rough running engine. It wouldn't hurt to pour a 1/2 bottle of rubbing alcohol (70%) into the tank. That will mix with any water and eventually push it through. The alcohol mixes with the water.

The surging is usually due to only a few things. High speed surging is a clear indication of a carb that's running too lean, and easy enough to fix. Surge at all speeds is usually an indication of a poorly adjusted governor.

Try richening the mixture, see what that does, and work from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It actually sounds as if there could be some water at the low point in the tank or fuel bowl. However, that would cause a sputtering and rough running engine. It wouldn't hurt to pour a 1/2 bottle of rubbing alcohol (70%) into the tank. That will mix with any water and eventually push it through. The alcohol mixes with the water.

The surging is usually due to only a few things. High speed surging is a clear indication of a carb that's running too lean, and easy enough to fix. Surge at all speeds is usually an indication of a poorly adjusted governor.

Try richening the mixture, see what that does, and work from there.

Thanks for the input. Today after adding the stabilizer I drove it for 20 minutes or so. It felt smooth at the lower end of the throttle and all the way up past the detent. The surge hits at the detent which I'm told is the fast / run position prior to choke. Looks like I'll need to look into the fix for the carb running too lean. At the same time I don't want to chase issues or create new ones. Should I drive this tank full of stabilizer through it first?
 

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Thanks for the input. Today after adding the stabilizer I drove it for 20 minutes or so. It felt smooth at the lower end of the throttle and all the way up past the detent. The surge hits at the detent which I'm told is the fast / run position prior to choke. Looks like I'll need to look into the fix for the carb running too lean. At the same time I don't want to chase issues or create new ones. Should I drive this tank full of stabilizer through it first?
I would drive the tank to empty, but I would also put in the alcohol.
 

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If it was me, I wouldn't keep adding different additives, because some might not agree with each other. It could cause further issues.
What I would do is get as much of that fuel out of the tank as I can, then add some nice fresh fuel. See what happens from there. But I still suspect that you have a blockage somewhere in the carb.
 

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First, I agree that the additives might cause more confusion than benefit. I run 91 octane, non-ethonal fuel in my D series. It has surged at times in its 120 hours, but always clears up when the PTO/Mower is engaged. Does your mower surge under load, or just when the PTO is not engaged? According to the dealer, the carb is set at the factory for "under load" conditions. My surging (which is not all the time) happens only when the PTO is disengaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First, I agree that the additives might cause more confusion than benefit. I run 91 octane, non-ethonal fuel in my D series. It has surged at times in its 120 hours, but always clears up when the PTO/Mower is engaged. Does your mower surge under load, or just when the PTO is not engaged? According to the dealer, the carb is set at the factory for "under load" conditions. My surging (which is not all the time) happens only when the PTO is disengaged.
That's good to know.. I have not put it under load as of yet. That's my next issue... The tractor was returned to Lowe's with a broken spindle - so I have the mower deck removed and a spindle on order.

So far my costs are:

Tractor:greentractorride:: $500
Trailor Rental (to get it home) $20
Tire Repair (2 front) $20
Tune up kit (Amazon) $18
Fuel Stabilizer $8.50
Spindle with Hardware - $45

Total - 611.50 (plus fuel)

Think I'm doing alright:thumbup1gif:
 

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First, I agree that the additives might cause more confusion than benefit. I run 91 octane, non-ethonal fuel in my D series. It has surged at times in its 120 hours, but always clears up when the PTO/Mower is engaged. Does your mower surge under load, or just when the PTO is not engaged? According to the dealer, the carb is set at the factory for "under load" conditions. My surging (which is not all the time) happens only when the PTO is disengaged.
Surging with no load is a clear indication that the mixture is too lean. It is not normal for any engine to surge (high/low rpm repeat) without a load on it. And if my dealer fed me that line of crap I would find another dealer. Any carb is adjusted for the proper mixture at low and high speed. This is usually a combination of fixed or adjustable jets. On small engines of the type used in these small tractors a governor is used to control the fuel mixture in the event a heavy load or engine strain is encountered. In that case the engine is given more fuel as the governor opens the carburetor butterfly to allow for more fuel to enter the combustion chamber(s). Look at this like you're stepping on the gas pedal of your car or truck while pulling a trailer up a steep hill. You feel the vehicle slow down, rpms decrease, and you give the car/truck more gas to account for the load. But once again, surging is NOT normal load or no load, and usually indicates a lean carb.
 

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Time to pull off the carb and open her up. Clean out all the passages and jets. That's what it finally took to fix the same problem on my X540. Didn't find a whole lot of crud but enough to cause a problem. It only takes one tinny piece to block fuel flow. This happened even with very low engine hours and regularly replacing all filters. Even using only non ethanol fuel. Highly recommend using non ethanol fuel. 87 octane is usually fine for the tractor engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Time to pull off the carb and open her up. Clean out all the passages and jets. That's what it finally took to fix the same problem on my X540. Didn't find a whole lot of crud but enough to cause a problem. It only takes one tinny piece to block fuel flow. This happened even with very low engine hours and regularly replacing all filters. Even using only non ethanol fuel. Highly recommend using non ethanol fuel. 87 octane is usually fine for the tractor engine.
I sincerely appreciate the input.... I haven't done too much with the tractor since my last post but I will be getting into that carb and giving it a once over. I don't want to miss anything.
 

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A few years ago, my 214 started intermittently running like crap. It would all of a sudden start coughing, missing, and blowing black smoke. As strange as it may sound, a quick pull on the choke would straighten it out, though briefly. Rebuilt the carb, added a fuel filter, new points, condenser and coil. Nothing helped. Finally ran out that tank of gas and refilled. It has been fine ever since.

Sent from my RCT6773W22 using Tapatalk
 

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A few years ago, my 214 started intermittently running like crap. It would all of a sudden start coughing, missing, and blowing black smoke. As strange as it may sound, a quick pull on the choke would straighten it out, though briefly. Rebuilt the carb, added a fuel filter, new points, condenser and coil. Nothing helped. Finally ran out that tank of gas and refilled. It has been fine ever since.

Sent from my RCT6773W22 using Tapatalk
Yeah an engine will never run correctly on bad gas. This is why I only use non ethanol fuel with stabilizer year round. If and when any of my equipment has to sit it's never a problem.
 
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