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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Been sitting on the 1" thick chunk of AR400 for my shank for this for a while, and decided I'd build it as a project while running my STD production this week.

Yesterday I started by adding the eye tabs to the cross tube, and gusseting them.



Then today I started working on the upper section.



A buddy posted a mig bead on Fb with the whole stack of nickels look, so I had to take one of mine. :)



Then I discovered that these tabs aren't cut with 1" holes, but 1-1/16" holes. Grrrr Which bugged me enough to sleeve them.

To start that process, I brought them out to 1-1/8" to give a little more meat to the sleeves.



Then whipped up the inserts and welded them in.



Made some caps for the ends of the 4" tubes and welded those on (I did the bottom bracket last after taking the overview shot).



Then welded it all together.



Tomorrow I'll start working on the shank and the mounts for it to attach it to the frame.
 

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Beautiful work yet again Jim. :good2:
 

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Holy cow what a great looking project. Will stay tuned. :munch::munch::hi::munch:
 

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Nice work, great welds. Now the shank :munch::munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys! I was thinking back to how my first welding instructor called me a gorilla when taking that pic for my buddy John, and Gene (instructor) was spot-on at the time. :lolol: When I first started learning arc (stick), I was HORRIBLE. I'd be fine when the 'trode got down to around 6", but a 12"er right out of the tube was too long for me to control with any prayer of aesthetics. "Gorilla ugly - strong, but nothing to look at!" :laugh: I'd pass all my bend tests, but my lord, those beads were hideous. I wonder where Gene's at now? I've still got all my fingers, and that's something he couldn't say then (unless he had them in a jar at home). :lol:


I've got a couple options for the ripper tip. I got a 4" pan I think? and then a narrower one that looks similar to what's usually on these except that it has pointy ends. I figured getting stuff that's replaceable at the local farm supply was a better option than going with subsoiler specific parts that I'd need to order.

I'll also be setting up the shank mounts to facilitate the addition of a pipe laying attachment for putting in hose/wire/etc.
 

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Those welds are looking great.. Good job.
 

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Looking at your handiwork makes me want to quit my day job, buy a TIG welder and practice, practice and practice! :good2:
 

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Looking at your handiwork makes me want to quit my day job, buy a TIG welder and practice, practice and practice! :good2:
I would starve.

I'll just have to settle with being envious.
 

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I would starve.

I'll just have to settle with being envious.

Me too. I ain't posting ANY pics of my welds. Nobody wants to see THAT. Especially after seeing pics like these. :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh, come on now... I don't post this stuff because I want anyone to feel bad about their own work. We need to keep sharing our projects because it inspires other people to look at stuff differently or maybe get inspired to make one themselves. I look at all kinds of peoples projects when I'm in the design stage on mine, so it's only right to post mine when I do them so maybe someone will get an idea how to do it better/different on theirs. That's how progress works! That's why patents were only supposed to be good for 10 years when they were first made law - because you're not supposed to stop once you get a winner.

Every weld you make is another chance to do it better than the last one. :good2: We're all friends here. Now go make something! :kidw_truck_smiley:
 

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Lower pins are bolted stubs. I don't like the double sheer mounts because lining them up is a pain. So instead, I made these out of 1/2" material, with 1/2" thick gussets on the top and bottom of those flanges.
A pain to fabricate or use? You certainly have the skills to build it. The double shear implements I have don't seem any more difficult to hook up than the threaded pins, and are a lot stronger. I bent the single shear pins on my last box blade even after reinforcing them with a plate across the bottom.

I'm curious to see how you attach the ripper itself. Like I said, I've been kicking around this exact same build so I'm pretty curious to see how someone more talented than I am would do it. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A pain to hook up. It's easier for me to get "close enough" and stuff the pin in the spherical ball, then jiggle the draft control to allow the pins to seat, than it is to get it close enough to then stuff in the pin through the hole, into the bearing, and through the other hole.

Part of my problem is that things like my skidding winch are designed for cat 1 and 2, so my sway control links are loose when I hook up to the stuff I build to cat 2 specs. Can't just bungee the arms together - they'll be too narrow and miss the slots. I'm actually contemplating making adapter pins for my winch so I don't have to use the double sheer mounts it's designed with.

I won't go to something like Pat's either, because the angularity issues of defeating the ball ends mean the lower pins need way too much slop to articulate or you end up binding the quick links.

Ultimately, the whole apparatus is limited by the sheer bolt I use. I'll be going with 5/8" grade 2 like the little tinker toy store bought units and seeing how that works out in practice. I'd expect that to fail long before I flexed 4" of half inch plate to yield.
 

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Okay, now your just showing off!

Great work man, sweet welds and some very fine detail work there.

isaac
 

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Looking good Jim! :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This morning I started in on the ripper shank.

These are the two points I got sitting on top of my 6x42x1" chunk of AR400.



Made the mole out of a section of 2x2x1/4" and a piece of 1/2x1.5" cold rolled.





Drilled my holes for attaching it.



:D Ok, that was just to prove a point. You can drill abrasion resistant steel without a mag drill or big drill press. It's slow. It's hard on drill bits (that's true regardless of what you're using to propel them). And it's generally not "fun" - but it's entirely do-able with a reasonably powerful handheld tool if you take your time and step them up to size. I piloted both holes and then took it over to the mill to bring them up to 5/8".

Then tacked up the mole to the shank, leaving a (bigger than I really needed) gap so I could get the weld way down in between the two pieces. This is 1" thick after all, and that much metal sucks a lot of heat out of the puddle. You can chamfer to get your weld down in between the two parts (ha! This stuff is grinder resistant), or you can leave a gap - I left a gap. I also added a little more angle to the mole by putting the nose down.



Now the fun begins - gotta bridge that canyon with liquid metal while running hot enough to get a good bite on the 1" side. Which happens to be a really good skill to have. Sometimes the fit-up of what needs welding has a gap that looks just like this. :)



And underneath it looks like this.



Being less worried about the weld falling out the bottom (since that's now sealed), it's a lot easier to run one in hot over the top of it.



With the root now filled in on both sides, I put a couple more passes down for good measure.



Time for lunch and to let that sucker cool down.
 
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