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Things happen when plowing and blowing and now pushing snow with these SCUTs and the x7xx series machines. I use the plow and blower and have used them thousands of times in varying conditions and situations. Since others rely on me to be able to get to work and school and out to the public roads, I keep the items on hand which I have found tend to have issues from time to time. Here is the list I keep for a quick reference for anyone wondering if they should have a spare item or two on hand.

These are for the 1025r tractor, 54" front Quick Hitch Plow, 47" Two Stage Snow Thrower. If you have a different machine or implement, verify the part numbers for your application but the parts which wear and which either break or get lost are consistent across the different models, so you can use the description as a guide and just look up and verify your correct part numbers for your machine or implement.


These are both the parts which wear out over time with use and require replacement or are known to break, wear out or get lost.

Wear out parts are in blue.

Break or lost parts are in red and therefore more critical to have on hand in my opinion.

All Prices shown are EACH from GFP at their listed price, Additional Discounts may apply. Multiply by quantity desired for your total cost


(2) $18.93 Hitch mounting pins M97609, the hitch uses 4, I always keep 2 as if you break one you likely bent or damaged the other
(2) $2.71 Compression Spring M42578, uses 4, I keep 2, these fail or fly off when you break a hitch pin.
(2) $0.72 Spring Pins 34H385, uses 4, I keep 2 as the old pins aren't worth messing with when replacing hitch pins
(4) $1.27 O'Ring T77814, uses 4, I keep 4 as they are cheap and if one O Ring on the hoses is leaking replace all four or you will later anyways.
(1) $17.90 Elbow Fitting 38H1545, uses 4 on the hydraulic lines, I keep one just in case it is damaged
(1) $4.71 Steel Ring M84180, uses 2, These are the spring steel rings which hold the hitch rod through the frame. Lose it and no hitch install.
(1) $3.34 Adapter Fitting JD7838 , uses 1, For hydraulic angling cylinder
(1) $9.98 Angle Fitting X5CTX-S (replaces M42829) For Hydraulic cylinder on hitch, this is the one broken by ice at times.
(1) $9.93 Angle Fitting M43551, For Hydraulic cylinder on hitch, this is the one broken by ice at times.
(1) $13.33 Hydraulic Angle Cylinder Mounting Pin, M135963, Can shear off if end of plow impacts something.
(4) $9.94 Hydraulic Quick Connect Fittings, AM37983, Quick connect fittings, Male end


47" Two Stage Snow Thrower Parts I keep in my spare parts

(4) $0.48 Shear Bolts 19H1914, 1/4" x 1" Bolt- uses 2, I keep 4, when the conditions are such you break shear bolts, you usually break a few
(1) $72.57 Blade M135649, Uses 1, Keep one. Wear bar on the bottom of the blower. They wear slowly, excess down pressure, it wears quickly.
(8) $0.63 Carriage Bolts 03M7184 M8 x 20, Holds the wear bar on the plow, the old bolts will be toast from wear.
(8) $0.60 Lock nuts N10213, Holds the wear bar on the plow.
(2) $11.94 Cables, Chute control M96976, Uses two and if you break one, replace both at once or you will get to do it again, trust me.........
(1) $8.07 Knob M155801, uses 1, keep 1. It's the manual chute deflection knob for securing the chute in place. They can rattle loose and be lost.
(1) $13.49 Support M146800, uses 1, keep 1. Support holds the PTO shaft when unhooked. Its easier to attach blower with the shaft out of the way

54" Quick Hitch Mounted Plow Spare parts I keep in my spare parts

(1) $69.02 Rubber Squeegee M42868, 1 used, Keep a spare on hand. If you tear or damage it, you will need to replace to keep plowing.
(1) $84.08 Band / Strap M75674 Holds the Squeegee on the moldboard. If you use this as the scraper edge, you will need to replace it.
(9) $0.60 Bolts 03M7185 Uses 8 or 9, I can't recall, it's better to have an extra than one short, count on your plow for exact number
(9) $0.71 Nuts E63525 Lock nuts for holding the strap and or squeegee and strap on the moldboard
(2) $2.66 Shoe Pins M40569 uses 2, I keep 2 as these get lost if you lose the spring pin and it's unlikely you have something at home which fits.
(2) $0.81 Spring Clips M40461, uses two, I keep two as these hold the pins which hold the shoes.
(2) $16.27 Plow Shoes M147167 uses 2, I keep 2 as you can't plow without them if you are NOT using the squeegee, with the squeegee, optional
(2) $66.33 Plow Shoes AM119321 Heavy Duty Shoes, Wear much longer than "regular duty shoes" Optional if squeegee used.

Please Note, Always verify the part numbers for accuracy for your particular machine or implement. Part Numbers change and parts are replaced or superseded with other parts so always verify the numbers to fit your machine when ordering what you need. These numbers are as of January 22,2019 and for the machine and implement I have identified above.

Additionally, if you have the 54" snow blower, it uses a different chute rotation system and does not utilize the cables as shown in this list. The part numbers shown in this are for the 47" two stage snow thrower.
 

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47" Two Stage Snow Thrower Parts I keep in my spare parts

(1) $72.57 Blade M135649, Uses 1, Keep one. Wear bar on the bottom of the blower. They wear slowly, excess down pressure, it wears quickly.
The scraper blade on the 47/54" blowers is reversible. So if you wear out one side you can flip it end for end and use the other side. This usually gives you plenty of time to order a replacement which can probably be then installed in warm weather.

Additionally, if you have the 54" snow blower, it uses a different chute rotation system and does not utilize the cables as shown in this list. The part numbers shown in this are for the 47" two stage snow thrower.
The 54" blower uses the same cables and chute rotation system as the 47" blower (and 46" for that matter). I have the 54" and just checked JD Parts and both blowers list M96976 for the chute cables.

The one that is different is the 59" front snow blower. It uses a single cable whereas the other blowers use two cables.
 
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I don't see a snow shovel anywhere on the list, that's a good go to when things break.
 

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I don't see a snow shovel anywhere on the list, that's a good go to when things break.
I didn't see spare tractor in case there's a problem,you can change out the implement.:lol:
 

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I don't see a snow shovel anywhere on the list, that's a good go to when things break.
Sully don't need no stinkin' snow shovel - I think he's still got his x7xx machine in case the SCUT breaks! :laugh:



I have a Toro single stage that I still use on the sidewalk and the decks. It will work on the concrete pad and the driveway as well. If something goes South with that, I have a 48" blade that I can put on my Gravely. And if Gravely #1 won't start, I can put it on Gravely #2 or Gravely #3! :good2:

But there's no way I'm picking up a snow shovel - those things kill guys my age (and weight! :banghead:). :nunu:



Impressive list, Sully!!
 

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Spare JD key

I have a spare key with my vehicle keys as well as one in my tool box on the trailer.

I also have an emergency winter duffel bag

- gloves
- hand warmers
- touque
- long tow cable
- battery cables
- three flares
- flashlight (LED) and spare batteries

I have already had to use my emergency kit twice this winter to help others
 

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SulleyBear.

The only change I would make, is the shear bolts, I would have more than 4. If they are 1/4-20 x 1" grade 2 you can buy 50 for about $2 at a hardware/big box store.
 

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SulleyBear.

The only change I would make, is the shear bolts, I would have more than 4. If they are 1/4-20 x 1" grade 2 you can buy 50 for about $2 at a hardware/big box store.
That is not correct. The factory shear bolts for the 47/54-inch blower are Grade-5 (P/N 19H1914). Note the grade listed below, Deere's A17D is equivalent to Grade-5.

 

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The only part you really need is the one that breaks. Murphy's law says that's the 1 you don't have.:banghead::hi:
 

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Ok, so it finally happened to me. The shear bolt on my sb1154 blower snapped as I was clearing the snow bank that the city plow left at the end of my road.
After hearing a loud snap, I noticed that there was hardly any snow coming out of the Shoot. I get of my 2320 to investigate and find that the impeller is turning but that the auger is not. then I notice the 8" diameter stone on the ground in front of the blower. Thank God the bolt snapped and there was no other damage. Now this is my dilemma, after 9 years of use without a problem, I can't for the life of me remember were the spare shear bolts are. After an hour of searching for them, they were right where I had left them.:banghead: Ten minutes later, I'm back up and running and you can be sure that next time there is a spare bolt in the tractors tool box, along with a few other parts that were mentioned in this thread!!!:bigthumb: 20190123_133747.jpg
Now if it can just stop snowing already.
 

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Ok, so it finally happened to me. The shear bolt on my sb1154 blower snapped as I was clearing the snow bank !
Is that the one where the auger shaft couples to the shear plate/small sprocket? If so, it looks like that one is a Grade-2. The parts illustration only shows the bolt, not the nut and washer.
 

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This is off a 3 point blower, 2010 model sb1154 and things might have changed a bit on the newer ones.
There is a small transfer case that the pto attaches to, then a shaft that runs off of it to the small rear sprocket that attaches to the chain. Between the two there is a shear plate. Without the nut and lock washer there would be no way of keeping the bolt in place, as there are no threads on either side of the shear plates to screw into.

I will be out blowing snow again this evening( about 30 inches since Sunday), and I will try to get a pic of the plates.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I have a spare key with my vehicle keys as well as one in my tool box on the trailer.

I also have an emergency winter duffel bag

- gloves
- hand warmers
- touque
- long tow cable
- battery cables
- three flares
- flashlight (LED) and spare batteries

I have already had to use my emergency kit twice this winter to help others
You know, I have never taken the key out of any of my tractors that I can recall.......No reason to really as they are kept in secured buildings with video and alarm systems. I have a spare key specifically for either tractor in the house in the key lock box, but since the keys are all interchangeable, I can use either machines key in the other machine. But if you were hauling the machine around, you would be wise to have a spare or a master key. The ignitions are very easy to pick with a small regular screw driver and a paper clip.

As a hobby, I practice picking locks, from these simple ignitions to complex home door locks, padlocks, all sorts of locks. My neighbor locked her purse in the house and I told her to wait in her car as it was cold and she had the kids. I picked the deadbolt on her front door in under a minute and then brought her purse to her in the car. She was shocked how quickly I opened it. She thouht I must have sa duplicate key, but I don't need one to be honest. I have also practiced my hobby more hours than I spend on GTT.......:zip::zip:

I carry a lot of other stuff as well as I have a tool box on the front side of my 3 point carry all. I was focusing primarily on the spare parts to have in the shop at home to get back up and running as quickly as possible without having to run out to the dealer.

I do carry a really nice new small power pack for jump starting vehicles, but it barely much larger than my cell phone and does a great job. I am going to post a thread about it soon. In fact, I jump started a neighbors car outside of the home the other day with it when it was -13 and it only used 12% of it's capacity to get the car up and running. That I am carrying inside the tractor cab in a special case with the various cables and ends. It can power anything from the tractor to my cell phone and is very handy, and at about $100, I feel well worth the money to have.



Sully don't need no stinkin' snow shovel - I think he's still got his x7xx machine in case the SCUT breaks! :laugh:
But there's no way I'm picking up a snow shovel - those things kill guys my age (and weight! :banghead:). :nunu:

Impressive list, Sully!!
I actually carry two shovels on the 3 point carry all, but only for a couple of steps at one elderly couples home. I am impressed with your memory on the other machine. It also has a plow and a blower, and could serve as backup, but I will say that it might be more of a hardship than I am now willing to endure since it's cab less.............that would be worse than shoveling.....:laugh::lol:

I have a Honda snowblower for my sidewalks and walk ways, steps, etc. It's like all Honda products, starts on the 1st pull and runs like a champ. I was carrying it on my carry all but I really only need it at home so I have taken it off the carry all and keep it in the garage. That allows me to carry more bags of snow melt which helps with the weight on the rear.

Don’t forget a bottle of whisky if you spill or finish your drink.

As I trailer mine around town I also keep fuses, zip ties, oils and a spare cylinder in my truck
Whisky.......Well, that might lead to needing more parts.......because it tends to lead to things where I would say "Hey, watch this" and that was usually followed by Mrs. Bear taking me to the emergency room.......SO, I will stick with coffee......:laugh:, thanks.

SulleyBear.

The only change I would make, is the shear bolts, I would have more than 4. If they are 1/4-20 x 1" grade 2 you can buy 50 for about $2 at a hardware/big box store.
I actually have a bolt bin with an entire "cubby hole" dedicated to the same bolts as the shear pins, same length, same grade, etc. I use them for other things and probably have 100 or so in the bin. But I agree, you can't have too many shear bolts. I go years and not need one and then will break a couple in a day. The last time was when I ran phone books through my snow blower.

The delivery people had thrown them in the end of everyone's driveway and then we had more than a foot of snow. I hit two, ironically in the very same driveway because after I hit the first, I figured I was clear on that driveway. Nope, they got two and I hit them both......What a mess they made before the shear pins broke, threw shredded paper everywhere which took me over an hour to clean up. Freaking phone book delivery people...............Another few years and the young people won't even know what a phone book is or should I say was......

Ok, so it finally happened to me. The shear bolt on my sb1154 blower snapped as I was clearing the snow bank that the city plow left at the end of my road.
After hearing a loud snap, I noticed that there was hardly any snow coming out of the Shoot. I get of my 2320 to investigate and find that the impeller is turning but that the auger is not. then I notice the 8" diameter stone on the ground in front of the blower. Thank God the bolt snapped and there was no other damage. Now this is my dilemma, after 9 years of use without a problem, I can't for the life of me remember were the spare shear bolts are. After an hour of searching for them, they were right where I had left them.:banghead: Ten minutes later, I'm back up and running and you can be sure that next time there is a spare bolt in the tractors tool box, along with a few other parts that were mentioned in this thread!!!:bigthumb:

Now if it can just stop snowing already.
I have found the rocks like you describe a few times myself. Thank goodness, either the shear pin broke but I also had a couple that the augers threw out when the auger cross bar hit the rolling rock and fortunately it flew ahead of the blower and I saw it, so I stopped. I have had that happen twice where the rock was kicked ahead of the blower.

Shear pins sure save a bunch of other serious damage.
I even bent the impeller wing on my steel impeller on my 47" two stage thrower. This is the impeller which those with the 54" blower with the plastic impeller often upgrade to because of the design of the impeller with almost "cupped hands" on the impeller to truly throw the snow, instead of the goofy flat plastic panels which merely slap at the snow in it's operation.

Not sure what got through the augers and into the impeller, but I disassembled the machine and pulled the impeller out and heated it red hot and straightened it. Tested it for balance and it's fine. The metal impeller is seriously tough and on my blower, the wings (cupped hands) are even gusset supported and it folded the support when it bent the wing. I got it straightened out and have used it for years since. But it vibrated the snow blower violently when it was bent. It wouldn't have lived very long operating the machine with that out of balance as much as it was.

Sure like to know what went through the blower to damage it but I was never able to determine it............It was a challenge to straighten when it was red hot, I can't imagine what bent it like that when cold.......

It would have destroyed lesser snow thrower machines for sure........:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The only part you really need is the one that breaks. Murphy's law says that's the 1 you don't have.:banghead::hi:
In that respect, I have been lucky as often, when something breaks, I have had the replacement. From mounting pins to angle cylinder fitttings and pins to plow shoes, pins clips, etc. If you are not plowing with a rubber squeegee and you lose a plow shoe, it's better to remove the other one and proceed carefully. But instead, I have replaced them with spares and was able to get back to it quickly.

The last part which I broke that I didn't have was the steel hydraulic line which runs from the rear hydro pump on my 455 to the front steering valve. I was shocked that my dealer had it in stock, as that is for a machine nearly 25 years old. It fits several different models, but still, I was impressed they had it. They told me they sell one a year on average.

Turns out the replacement line had an extra support bracket that had been a revision Deere made in later serial number machines because of vibration causing the steel line to fracture over time. When that line breaks, the machine loses fluid so fast and you are unable to lift the front implement. I was able to back home and drag the snow blower and get right in front of the garage door before the fluid loss caused more trouble. If something hydraulic related breaks and you are using a front implement, your only transport option is likely to drag the implement backwards to get out of the road or wherever you are as pushing it is often futile when its snow removal equipment.

That's a part best replaced on a lift as it's way up under the machine. For that repair, I had the machine hauled to my local small engine shop and while they worked on the tractor, I ran and got the part, which had me back plowing later that same day.

I also suggest for the older machines that people keep the tie rod ends in stock as the extra weight on the front end on the 4 series and x5xx and x7xx machines can cause the tie rod ends to wear and fail. When they break, you can't move the tractor as the front wheels are spread wide open and apart like a NFL playoff game stadium parking lot "personal entertainment worker", if you know what I mean...................or so I heard.....:laugh:

When the tie rod end break, you can stop every 3 feet and straighten the front wheels so they aren't pointed in opposite directions, but it's a very slow process, its easier to grab the replacement part and fix it.................
 

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Things happen when plowing and blowing and now pushing snow with these SCUTs and the x7xx series machines. I use the plow and blower and have used them thousands of times in varying conditions and situations. Since others rely on me to be able to get to work and school and out to the public roads, I keep the items on hand which I have found tend to have issues from time to time. Here is the list I keep for a quick reference for anyone wondering if they should have a spare item or two on hand.

These are for the 1025r tractor, 54" front Quick Hitch Plow, 47" Two Stage Snow Thrower. If you have a different machine or implement, verify the part numbers for your application but the parts which wear and which either break or get lost are consistent across the different models, so you can use the description as a guide and just look up and verify your correct part numbers for your machine or implement.


These are both the parts which wear out over time with use and require replacement or are known to break, wear out or get lost.

Wear out parts are in blue.

Break or lost parts are in red and therefore more critical to have on hand in my opinion.

All Prices shown are EACH from GFP at their listed price, Additional Discounts may apply. Multiply by quantity desired for your total cost


(2) $18.93 Hitch mounting pins M97609, the hitch uses 4, I always keep 2 as if you break one you likely bent or damaged the other
(2) $2.71 Compression Spring M42578, uses 4, I keep 2, these fail or fly off when you break a hitch pin.
(2) $0.72 Spring Pins 34H385, uses 4, I keep 2 as the old pins aren't worth messing with when replacing hitch pins
(4) $1.27 O'Ring T77814, uses 4, I keep 4 as they are cheap and if one O Ring on the hoses is leaking replace all four or you will later anyways.
(1) $17.90 Elbow Fitting 38H1545, uses 4 on the hydraulic lines, I keep one just in case it is damaged
(1) $4.71 Steel Ring M84180, uses 2, These are the spring steel rings which hold the hitch rod through the frame. Lose it and no hitch install.
(1) $3.34 Adapter Fitting JD7838 , uses 1, For hydraulic angling cylinder
(1) $9.98 Angle Fitting X5CTX-S (replaces M42829) For Hydraulic cylinder on hitch, this is the one broken by ice at times.
(1) $9.93 Angle Fitting M43551, For Hydraulic cylinder on hitch, this is the one broken by ice at times.
(1) $13.33 Hydraulic Angle Cylinder Mounting Pin, M135963, Can shear off if end of plow impacts something.
(4) $9.94 Hydraulic Quick Connect Fittings, AM37983, Quick connect fittings, Male end

[/I]
This first section is specific to your 1025R?
 
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Has anybody ever tried a rubber scraping blade on the 54” blower?
 
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Discussion Starter #19
This first section is specific to your 1025R?
Not really, most of those parts are the same on many of the quick hitches. I have the quick hitch which fits the 455 which is also the same as that which fits on the x7xx, etc. Things like the hitch pins, springs, pins, etc. are the same on both of my hitches so I can use these parts on either machine.

While there are some differences in the quick hitches and how they mount on the tractors, these parts listed are almost always universal for many of the Quick hitches. It's best to double check the part numbers for your machine, but I bet you will find the numbers are the same.

Also, even if they are a different number for another machine, the same general list would apply from a description perspective because these are the parts which tend to either wear, they get lost or they break during use if something happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Has anybody ever tried a rubber scraping blade on the 54” blower?
Not that I am aware of, primarily because the wear bar / blade on the snow blower is designed with a recess in the center of the blade for the hardware to fit up in it. Otherwise, the down force and friction wear on the heads of the hardware first, which you wouldn't want.

Also, the design of the blade on the blowers is not real thick, I would have to measure it, but I doubt the blade is 1/2" "thick" from top to bottom, so if you drilled the rubber edge to recess the mounting hardware, you would not have a lot of material under the bolts to hold the edge. This should help explain the shape and you can see how the bolts are up in the wear bar.

I am sure there would be a way to do it, it would just take some time and trial and error. Also, you don't want the edge too tall (thick) or the snow blower is going to he higher off the driveway and might not feed quite as intended.........

It would be nice to eliminate the friction of the metal. If anything, I would think a composite edge here, instead of a metal one would be the way to go as the composite edge would eliminate the friction and the composite material could be counter sunk to recess the hardware and still be strong enough to work.

 
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