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Hi,
I have a 1025R that I picked up used last year. I had a new 120R loader installed, and purchased the pallet forks that go with it.
This winter, I had some trees cleared on my land, I had them cut into 6-8' lengths. It looks like an early spring, and I would like to remove the cut-up sections.
It is low land by the river, so I will have to wait a bit before I drive around down there without tearing it up.
So, anyway, my question for the group is ....
What do people recommend for the job? I'm leaning towards a grapple, but which one?
I've seen grapples that use the loader frame, ones that get added to the loader bucket, but each of these require an additional hydraulic line/splitter, etc
I've seen one that attaches to the front quick hitch frame.
Or am I just as well off to use the loader bucket (I have added Ken's Bolt On Hooks), or the pallet forks?
If people think I should use a bucket add-on or addition to loader frame, what does it take to add the additional hydraulics?
What have your experiences been with Grapples?
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If you have the $ a grapple is a great tool. I found a used grapple that came off a wrecked mini skid steer for not much money. It did take a lot of straightening and still isn't totally like it should be but works well.

I have pallet forks and the grapple. If I'm dealing with brush, limbs etc. I'll take the grapple every time. I just have a lot more control with the grapple plus it's easy to pick up stray brush, put it in the pile and grab it all in one bunch with the grapple. Seldom do I have to hand load anything with the grapple plus it will hold small stuff that might fall through the forks.

The Artillian diverter valve works well and Kenny is a first class person to deal with. It's not inexpensive but mine has worked well.

If the bank account doesn't allow for the grapple, use what you've got. Lots of members on here use pallet forks to move brush and logs. I'd use them as well if I didn't have the grapple.

Treefarmer
 

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I've looked hard at grapples for the multiple trash trees, sumac, and trash bushes around here. I only have about an acre of that crap and just can't bring myself to spend the money. for grapple, frame, and hydraulics. I exclusively use my 42" forks for that stuff and that works well enough that I could convince myself that I don't need to spend the money on a grapple.
 

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What have your experiences been with Grapples?
I have the Deere AV20F on my 1023E, I cannot say enough positive things about owning a grapple. What would otherwise be a major project is an afternoon's work, sitting down. :)
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I have the Deere 3rd mid SCV to control the grapple but that's a dealer only install and not cheap. I bought new and rolled it into the 0% financing but for an add-on I'd recommend a diverter kit. Lots of people here can give you advice on those.
 

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If you do not want the extra expense you can get a grapple that doesn't need extra hydraulics,or for somewhat more get one that uses electric instead of hydraulic for closing it.

 

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+1 for the EA Wicked 55. I have the artillian 3rd SCV kit with mine.
 

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Searching the term “grapple” and “diverter” (separately) will turn up hours of reading, well worth the time.
 

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I would not be without a grapple. That said I have 16 acres of overgrown unkept property that I am cleaning up.

Since you already have pallet forks, my recommendations would be Frontier, Everything Attachments, and CTA.

You will need to add a third function to your tractor / loader. The most popular solutions are the Artillian and W.R. Long diverter kits. I believe that KenndyD sells a diverter kit and you won't get any better customer service than you'll get from him.

I would not recommend the non-hydraulic "alternatives". I would use another method before spending money on a lesser implement.

A grapple at first look appears expensive. If you have a significant amount of property / trees / debris to deal with, they are well worth the investment and a valuable addition to your tractor.

If it is a one and done project, your loader bucket and pallet forks can get the task done. You can also just use a rope or chain. I have skidded many piles of brush with a basic tractor, ATV, or gator. Lay all the limbs the same way across a piece of good rope. Tie a loop in the end, pull the other through it. When you pull it will tighten and off you go. You can then use the loader to push everything into a pile.

Years of skidding brush like I described is why I jumped on the chance to get a grapple. I get a lot of pleasure watching it crush a pile of brush and effortlessly carrying it off to its final resting place in a burn pile.

Another advantage to the grapple is as you build the burn pile, you have pre-compacted the brush. You get a really dense pile that makes for a great bonfire.
 

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Everything Attachments makes a fantastic grapple for SCUTS, the Wicked 55"
What does this quote from their website mean:
NOTICE
Root rake top lid is designed for raking loose material backwards and not intended to pry or pull embedded objects such as roots or stumps.
 

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It means you can damage the lid and/or the hydraulics if used improperly.
 

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There are numerous videos...utube has them from Goodworks Tractor. To outfit one on your tractor you may need over $2000. If the photo you show is your clean up area you do have a big job. I've got a 1025r but my grapple is on my JD4400 with more power and clearance. I kinda looks like your area needs logging and you'll have tons of stumps. Be safe.
 

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But it's called the "wicked root grapple". Is the idea you use the lower jaw for roots?
Yes, that is where the strength and leverage is at.

The lid and hydraulics are designed to apply downforce pressure to secure the load. Some can be used for back dragging light / loose debris. I use the lower tines for this and only use the lid to grab the pile.

This is pretty standard for most grapples, especially the ones designed for SCUT/CUT tractors. Get into the skid steer level and then you get some heavy duty grunt.
 

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One MAJOR issue is that when the valve is in mitral, the ports are blocked and there is no relief valve in play. If you push with the lid, thereby moving the cylinder, you can very easily overpressurized the lines and the work ports of the valve, it can easily spike to many thousands of pounds over the max pressure rating of the components.
 

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You're going to expend north of $2K for the grapple and the hydraulic kit to operate it. There are lots of great grapples out there. Quality, price, shipping expense, and empty weight of the grapple were all factors that went into my decision. The 120R only has so much lift capacity and a heavier grapple will reduce the payload it can lift. This probably isn't so critical with trees, as wood does not have near the weight volume of earth and the practical physical size, of say a tree trunk, becomes an issue long before the weight does. None the less, grapples can and are often utilized to move and place boulders and then it does become an issue. At the time I purchased, the Everything Attachments Wicked Root Grapple was the best fit for me.

You have two ways you can go with hydraulics. John Deere offers a true third function hydraulic SSV you can likely add to your tractor. Materials will come in at around $1100 and it will take some time, aptitude, and tool resources to install. So if you're hiring it done, that will be several hundred.

Artillian offers a hydraulic diverter package for around $800. The earlier models, in my opinion, had some shortcomings, but I understand Artillian has addressed those issues. It would be much simpler to install to the point where those with basic mechanical knowledge shouldn't have an issue or if you're hiring it done, would be much less than the the true 3rd function SSV offered by JD.
 

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I'm with DanW. I have my 1023e being delivered some time this week and my grapple solution will be identical to his, a 100% JD solution. Best price I could find for a real grapple with 3rd function hydraulics, not a diverter, but full third function and installed by the dealer.

And DanW, you're driving me crazy with your pictures, so much so that I drool and my wife thinks I'm having a stroke.
 

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Hi,
I have a 1025R that I picked up used last year. I had a new 120R loader installed, and purchased the pallet forks that go with it.
This winter, I had some trees cleared on my land, I had them cut into 6-8' lengths. It looks like an early spring, and I would like to remove the cut-up sections.
It is low land by the river, so I will have to wait a bit before I drive around down there without tearing it up.
So, anyway, my question for the group is ....
What do people recommend for the job? I'm leaning towards a grapple, but which one?
I've seen grapples that use the loader frame, ones that get added to the loader bucket, but each of these require an additional hydraulic line/splitter, etc
I've seen one that attaches to the front quick hitch frame.
Or am I just as well off to use the loader bucket (I have added Ken's Bolt On Hooks), or the pallet forks?
If people think I should use a bucket add-on or addition to loader frame, what does it take to add the additional hydraulics?
What have your experiences been with Grapples?
View attachment 731352
 

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don't like new layout of forum. I have a grapple from CTA that I have used on my 2016 1025r and moved to my 2018 2038R. On the 1025R I used the hydraulic kit from Artillian and now on the 2038 I have the WRLong kit. Very happy with it and have never had a problem.
 
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