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I’ve purchased the 3 remote version of Summit’s Electric rear remote kits for compact tractors, and have completed the hydraulic portion of the install. I’m now moving on to mounting the electric switches for the remotes. Has any found a better place to mount the switches than what’s provided. I’m not real happy with the Summit solution and just curious if anyone has something better for a location.
 

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when I do that, shortly, my aim is to put a switch on the bucket curl SCV....for the Thumb I'm adding....I want it all together & intuitive in function.....the # of Summit outputs r3emains unclear to me at present.......
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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I've got the 4.spool kit and I don't mind the location, but I'm also using it for another control box as well. All that being said, after about 5 hours of tractor use (100% loader work) I'd like to put a lockout switch on the unit to disable the buttons (just kill its +12V feed) because it was easy to unintentionally hit them/rest arm on them*. If I get adventurous, i might relocate the box down on the arm - maybe by flipping it upside down and mounting it to the underside of the bracket it's perched on.

*I wired mine to +12v constant, not switched so I could release stored pressure with the tractor turned off for installing/removing implements.
 
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when I do that, shortly, my aim is to put a switch on the bucket curl SCV....for the Thumb I'm adding....I want it all together & intuitive in function.....the # of Summit outputs r3emains unclear to me at present.......
We will offer a joystick mounted switch for the first two valves soon. Anything over 2 will still require the bracket.


Interested in hearing ideas for a better way to install the “more than 2” valve switches. The bracket along the fight ROPS was my idea..so blame me for that one. It was the best idea I had....and it works pretty well for my needs.

Tim
 

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One thing I noticed on one of the posts is a male double plug in fuse outlet....does anyone know where these are obtainable...the fuse was in the double pronge plug and you can just push into the fuse box....with the live fuseed wire coming out....the fuse box has a couple of outlets and which are both switched and unswitched...this would save a lot of time and problems...
 

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Interested in hearing ideas for a better way to install the “more than 2” valve switches. The bracket along the fight ROPS was my idea..so blame me for that one. It was the best idea I had....and it works pretty well for my needs.

Tim
Hey Tim,

After a few hours of tractor use (about 5-6) my changes would be as follows:

My overall impression comments:
  • This kit is great - it's provided the needed rear ports in a mostly compact and clean and easy install.
  • This does make getting on/off the 260 Backhoe more of a challenge, however it does easily connect in serial with the BH making the kit a mostly permanent install.
  • Selfishly, this mounting bracket is perfect for me and the timing couldn't have been better - I've already modified it to mount another control box in addition to the rear spools.
  • The SMV mount on the Pre-Mid 2017 vintage 1R's needs to be removed to mount the hydraulic manifold, this will require some re-engineering to get it back on the tractor, not your problem to solve but should be noted.

Assuming the current mounting solution remains for the 3-4 spool options:
  • Add a switch to be able to "lockout" the valve switches. This could be as simple as single toggle switch on the front/side of the switch box that turns off the +12v. Sure this can be done by disconnecting the power source, however once seated, reconnecting it (depending on how it's connected) could be a hassle.
  • Shorten the DIN cable off the valve body by 12-16", for anyone that's using the included mounting system, that cable is too long. (You even mentioned this in your video and completely understand why it was made longer - however opinions and ideas have been requested) Maybe offer a longer (current) version for an extra cost.
  • Lower the mounting point so the switches are physically lower than the arm rests. Instead of mounting this on top of the 90 off the bracket, put the 90 on the bottom, and mount the switches next to, not above the bracket. This would require remaking the bracket.
If it were to change to a different mounting method:
  • Use the "dead space" near the fuel gauge to mount it. Potentially 3D print a mounting bracket that would connect to the single bolt in that space.
  • Shrink, if possible the the control box - This comment is made with the understanding the switches need to be both, momentary and prevent both solenoids on the same spool from activating at the same time. This does make the switch choice option limited, and noting that generally this style of a switch has a fairly large depth requirement, making simple momentary push buttons not a good option.
  • Leading with the last bullet point, possibly change the switch types to a single momentary 4 direction switch like this, with a similar in style "diverter" button to switch between the available spools. This would be cleaner on a 4 spool version by having one of these joysticks and a diverter/alternate button. making the footprint smaller. Or just use two of these switches for a 4 spool, providing the 8 functions required. Switch Option link (no affiliation) Note: I might pursue this option because I've been having too much fun playing with this kit and making it my own, however for my use, I'd likely keep the same mounting location because that works well for me. Edit: With this being said, would it be possible to get a second DIN cable to build this out?
 
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One thing I noticed on one of the posts is a male double plug in fuse outlet....does anyone know where these are obtainable...the fuse was in the double pronge plug and you can just push into the fuse box....with the live fuseed wire coming out....the fuse box has a couple of outlets and which are both switched and unswitched...this would save a lot of time and problems...
Those are called "add a fuse" taps. Link to an option on Amazon- This is not an endorsement of product, just a quick search to find a reference, I haven't used them before.

For my install, I ran mine directly to the battery and just added a few two prong quick disconnects in the cubby to connect it to, if I need to remove it for whatever reason. I decided against switched 12V so the spools could be activated with the tractor off to remove pressure to ease in removing implements.
 
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I have used the "add-a-fuse" taps on a few projects, they work extremely well.
 

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I’ve purchased the 3 remote version of Summit’s Electric rear remote kits for compact tractors, and have completed the hydraulic portion of the install. I’m now moving on to mounting the electric switches for the remotes. Has any found a better place to mount the switches than what’s provided. I’m not real happy with the Summit solution and just curious if anyone has something better for a location.
Does the 1025 have this pocket like a 2025?
781239
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the comments/ideas and keep them coming. I’ve hit a little standstill on my switch location project as the weather and ground conditions have really improved. We might start planting crops next week and I have few last minute things to get ready with the big tractors. #plant21!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I forgot to add that this is a very high quality kit too. And an awesome way to get rear remotes. Our old planter tractor, a 2001 model, only had 3 remotes and now my 1025R does too!
 

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On the switching, with my multiplier I put the box near the control handle. The control hand is one that came with the factory setup. This way I can easily switch with my right hand and also switch on both. the thing I didn't like about the kit was no mention of switching power to the unit. The way my kit came was a fuse in line and connections to live power. Well with this you would be leaving continuous current to the switch and you'd have to remember to put the switch in neutral or else suffer a risk of solenoid burn out or drained battery. On my 4400, older compact tractor the fuse block did not show a switchable fuse outlet, There was an accessory, had no fuse but the power in was continuous. I can't seem to figure out where this goes. There was a red wire dingling out of the left side near the fuse block that was switchable but the voltage read 11 instead of 12 which I thought was odd. Therefore I went directly to the switch and teed off a white wire that guide said went to cruise control which I don't have. It was switchable so I came off it, adding a 15A fuse down under mat and over to the switch. That works fine and I don't have to think of turning off the control switch. But anyway the unit and other details is fine and I know Summit is coming out with items for all usages and installs...
 

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having a hard time finding the kit on summits website. Found a few pictures that scrolled but no postings and price. Any one know Where they are listed in the Summit site?
 

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Firemark, maybe try a different browser? It works on my computer.

Anyway here is the page I get when I click on the link:

 
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Edit: already answered.
 

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