Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I built a test set for my tractor. I am not real satisfied with them, but I am anxious to see how they work out. Telescoping stabilizers work (fine adjustment) because the holes in the rod are spaced differently than the holes in the tube, and there are enough holes in each for one to line up with the other about every 1/8th inch or so. On the 790, as well as many other JD tractors, the stabilizers, from mounting point to mounting point, are too short to have enough holes. It typically isn't possible to change the mounting points because the stabilizer would then hit the tire. This is what I've been dealing with on my 790. I have the R1 tires, which are narrower than any other option. So, it would be possible to move the mounting point on the lift arm further back, behind the lift rod. But, I wanted to keep the factory setup, and I wanted to build a set that was bolt on, using the existing holes. But, that meant that the body of the stabilizer is very short. I am not satisfied with the adjustment options, but time will tell. I also don't care for the yellow, but it was fast drying- I'm not very patient.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,947 Posts
Nice build

I built a test set for my tractor. I am not real satisfied with them, but I am anxious to see how they work out. Telescoping stabilizers work (fine adjustment) because the holes in the rod are spaced differently than the holes in the tube, and there are enough holes in each for one to line up with the other about every 1/8th inch or so. On the 790, as well as many other JD tractors, the stabilizers, from mounting point to mounting point, are too short to have enough holes. It typically isn't possible to change the mounting points because the stabilizer would then hit the tire. This is what I've been dealing with on my 790. I have the R1 tires, which are narrower than any other option. So, it would be possible to move the mounting point on the lift arm further back, behind the lift rod. But, I wanted to keep the factory setup, and I wanted to build a set that was bolt on, using the existing holes. But, that meant that the body of the stabilizer is very short. I am not satisfied with the adjustment options, but time will tell. I also don't care for the yellow, but it was fast drying- I'm not very patient.



I've got R4s and can do some measurements if it helps. I don't think they will matter. My lift arms will hit the tires but don't see the stabizer causing an issue.

How much trouble was it to get the lift arm rod out and mount the stabilizer? I have looked at mine but never taken it out. Given that it's frequently covered in dirt or mowing debris, I'm guessing there's some corrosion in there even with spraying the lift arm with Fluid Film.

Nice looking set up. The factory turnbuckles work but certainly aren't my favorite device.

Treefarmer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No problem- you don't have to remove the shaft. You take the side plate off, which stabilizers the end of the shaft (one on each side), removing 4 bolts. With that plate off, you can remove everything- even the lift arm- without taking off the shaft. While the stabilizers don't have the fine adjustment that I would like, they worked fine in conjunction with the width of my back blade frame. I think that they are going to be sufficient, but time will tell (as I use other implements, with different width mounts).
I bought a used Woods RD60 today (Kubota orange paint, faded to almost pink, but mechanically like new and $750), which I bought home and tried out. It did fine with the stabilizers.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top