Temperature gauge problems 4510

Change your thermostat ASAP before you cook your engine. :good2: They're cheap and it's most likely the cause of your trouble.

:wgtt:


Sent from my phone using Tapatalk.

After re-reading your post a few times, I need some more info. You said the radiator was warm, was the engine? Had it run long? If the engine wasn't run long or not hot, I would agree with Kenny. Try unplugging the sensor with ignition on and engine warm but not running and see what result you get. If the gauge goes full hot, you probably have a bad wire connection somewhere. If the gauge reads full cold, then the cluster may be bad as Kenny suggested. Do you have a service manual? They can be extremely helpful in situations like this.:good2:

Kennyd said:

Two guesses from me, either a wiring problem or the cluster is bad.

Click to expand...

Yeah thats what I first thought. The way the needle on the gauge darted over to the hot, instead of a slower movement, I was thinking electrical.

dieselshadow said:

After re-reading your post a few times, I need some more info. You said the radiator was warm, was the engine? Had it run long? If the engine wasn't run long or not hot, I would agree with Kenny. Try unplugging the sensor with ignition on and engine warm but not running and see what result you get. If the gauge goes full hot, you probably have a bad wire connection somewhere. If the gauge reads full cold, then the cluster may be bad as Kenny suggested. Do you have a service manual? They can be extremely helpful in situations like this.:good2:

Click to expand...

Yes the radiator cap and the engine were warm (not hot). I could put my finger in the coolant and it was warm. It had run maybe 10 minutes. When I unplug the sensor with switch on it is all the way to the left on COLD. Plugging it back in the needle goes all the way over to HOT.

Looking at JPparts your sender (T110736) has only one wire going to it. Most likely your temperature sender is a variable resistor that responds to changes in coolant temperature. Low coolant temperatures cause high resistance. High temperatures cause low resistance.

Here is some test you can make. All should be made with the engine OFF and the key in the run position. Connect wire from temperature sender to ground using a jumper wire. Gauge should indicate HOT. Unplug the sender wire and the gauge should indicate COLD. If this test fail you will need to test the wiring and the cluster. At this point I would disconnect the negative cable on the battery and Ohm test the wire from the sender to the cluster.

Granted you have ruled out the sender, but thought this may be of interest. The following are the readings for my sender. Maybe someone has readings for your sender and will share them with you.
60

OK guys it looks to be the gauge itself. The JD people say I can get water temp gauge at any auto parts store. The problem is the threaded connector for the sensor on the 4510 is metric, and it seems all the gauges at auto part stores is standard. Anyone know where I might find a water temp gauge with metric fittings?

mp4510 said:

OK guys it looks to be the gauge itself. The JD people say I can get water temp gauge at any auto parts store. The problem is the threaded connector for the sensor on the 4510 is metric, and it seems all the gauges at auto part stores is standard. Anyone know where I might find a water temp gauge with metric fittings?

Click to expand...

What about the JD dealer?

Kennyd said:

There are lots of adapters for sale for auto's, the trick is finding the one you need-that means accuratly measuring the threads.

Here is an example of different adapters: http://www.isspro.com/products.php?cat=2

Click to expand...

Thanks Kenny, that gives me something to go by. So the thread count, but would you also know the diameter "in millimeters" of the original sensor fitting? I assume I will need that info when ordering an adapter.

Hi. Sorry my first post is a Necro-bump. I tried the search function but got nowhere.

I'm having a similar situation with my 2008, JD3203.
How can I tell if it's just the temp sensor ($85) or it's the gauge / dash cluster (~$500) that is bad?

Backstory-
My son said it went into the red while he was shredding, so he stopped to let it cool. I checked/cleaned the radiator screen and after cooling, verified antifreeze was full and looked good.
On restarting the temp gauge went to 1/2 and seemed to stabilize, I continued shredding, closely monitoring the temp. Eventually it went to into the red so I shut down.
After cooling, I thought maybe the thermostat was stuck, so I just removed it alltogether.
Restarted and the gauge went into the red immediately. No way it overheated that fast, pulled back to the shop and verified coolant was barely warm (I opened and stuck my finger in the radiator.)

With engine cold and not running, key in the On position:
- Gauge reads just below the red (Hot)
- Removed the wire from the temp sensor and the gauge (slowly) drops to the Cold position.
- Put a test wire from the temp sensor wire to ground and temp gauge goes all the way to Hot.

1. Does this mean that the temp sensor is bad?

2. How do I test the temp gauge in the dash?

Welcome to GTT Viking,

I have three suggestions for you:

1) Get a IR temp probe, they are cheap and great to have for many things.

2) Get the technical manual for your tractor, it will have testing procedures to test the sensor so you can rule it out.